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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, I can never walk away from a “good deal” so I picked up this Gen1 KLR this evening for $900.

29248

29249

29250


The details: 1998 model, 37,820 miles,
The negatives: it was parked two years ago and doesn’t run (carb probably gummed up and battery dead. Lost the keys, so he installed a switch to bypass the ignition switch. Missing left taillight. Right hand guard busted (it’s some kind of carbon fiber or fiberglass version of a bark buster). Brake lever also bent. End of clutch lever broken off too.
The positives: obviously, it has an IMS 6.6 tank and rear crash guards. It also has an aluminum plate on the luggage rack. Heated handgrips. He also had a set of Progressive front springs AND Racetech Gold cartridge emulators that go with the bike, and a pair of aftermarket LED taillights. Carb has an extended knob mixture screw. The blue plastic is all there and not broken, albeit faded like old blue jeans—I kinda like that look.

So, basically I bought a blank canvas with which to create something I like, or for my brother to ride this summer with me on the WABDR. Beyond the basics of getting it running, I’m open to any creative ideas about what to do with it. Fire away.

edit 5/7/21: the other night I discovered it also has the Happy Trails LED brake light. The deal just got better!
 

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Wow, nice score - that's exactly what I've been looking for! (insert jealous emogie here!) Sounds like pretty minor items to deal with and the IMS and RT valves are huge bonuses IMO. As far as what to do?.....well, I know what I would do but it isn't my bike and I've been known to get carried away but fwiw;

- carb clean, rejet, pull the snorkle
- replace left taillight (stock)
- new battery ....I'd go LiFePO4
- new levers (stock)
- new bars (renthal 809's) and grips (Progrip 714's)
- new handguards (fastway or Cycra Pro-bends are my favorites)
- new tires and HD tubes (D606 rear, MT21 front)
- fork service, bushings and seals, install RT valves and springs (you could use the progressives but I (and racetech) recommend straight rate and you could sell the progressives)
- Cogent Adventure shock
- skidplate (ricochet or JNS)
- JNS headlight
- JNS drop peg brackets and IMS footpegs
- EM mirror relocation bracket
- SS brake lines, 320mm EBC rotor from EM and, if there was still money in the budget, EM's SV caliper adaptor and ebay caliper

...whew, it's hard spending other people's money! :LOL:

Dave
 

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Nice find, i love the patina too, not so much to do to make it efficient! I'll do pretty much the same as Dpelletier said! (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Dave, thanks for the recommendation on keeping the stock fork springs with the RT emulators. I plan to disassemble and inspect the front forks, and install the RT, but replace the bushings only if necessary. If they’re not loose, I’ll leave them alone. What oil do you recommend?

I won’t spend the big bucks on a Cogent shock and 320 front brakes and some of the other stuff until I’ve figured out what I’m going to do with it. Fresh tires, yes. Probably a new chain and sprocket set too. And I’ll buy the LiFePO battery, because I can swap it over to my 2013KLR if I don’t keep this one. It already has a SS braided front brake line, but not rear. I also have a spare 2014+ seat, so that will go on.

And I’ll have to see how hard it is to get the swing arm and suspension lever bolts out. 🤬
 

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Dave, thanks for the recommendation on keeping the stock fork springs with the RT emulators.

And I’ll have to see how hard it is to get the swing arm and suspension lever bolts out. 🤬
weeeell, I didn't say keep the stockers, just that RT recommends straight rate with the Emulators - you may be able to use the stockers, but the springrate is most likely too light. stock is .40 kg/mm racetech has a handy calculator: RT - Digital Product Search

...you sure you don't want to flip that bike for a quick $100? :LOL:


cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice find, You are a few beers and some sweet garage time away from running it...
That’s what I’m hoping. I just don’t want to find out he ran it low on oil or something expensive like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh yeah—checking the valve clearances and doohickey are near the top of my list! BTDT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did not wanted to write that, but when You check the valves, take a peek on exhaust camshaft bearing...regarding the lock You can tead this Cheaper alternative for ignition switch
Thanks for reminder about the Chinese ignition switch. I’m thinking I might take the old ignition lock to a Locksmith and get it keyed the same as my 2013 KLR to reduce the keychain clutter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Well, this hasn’t turned out to be quite as good a deal as I hoped. It’s still a good deal though. I posted my progress on the “what have you done lately” thread, but as of last night I discovered a major problem.

After cleaning the carb a few days ago, and getting it running (it was hard to start), and then checking the valves and replacing one exhaust shim to open the clearance from .004” to .009” (the other clearances were good), I decided to do a compression check before buttoning it back up. With the KACR engaged it came up to 35 psi, without the KACR, 65 psi. Way low. Damn. I then fired it up, but it took considerable cranking to get it to start, and it would die at idle. I then pressurized the cylinder at TDC and heard significant air leaking back through the air box. A bad intake valve.

I’m going to fire it up again today and try riding it around my house to see how the rest of the bike works, but I’m now looking forward to removing the head (not!) to see what’s leaking. And if I can’t see hone marks in the cylinder, well, then I guess I’ll just have to put in a big bore kit while I’m at it!
 

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With the KACR engaged it came up to 35 psi, without the KACR, 65 psi. Way low. Damn.
I have a new customer that feels your same pain. Apparently 1200+ miles with a NEVER OILED Uni-Filter on a suppossedly freshly installed EM685 kit bike. Very sad. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Paul, I don’t think it’s the same pain. My compression is/was leaking back through one of the intake valves, which probably was not caused by dirt getting past the filter.

And this is getting curiouser. This morning I went out and swapped the battery from my 2013 to the 1998. I was using jumper cables from my Chevy truck to the bike to start it previously (and yes, it cranked at normal cranking speed). Figured I’d try to start it again.

Set the choke, pulled in the clutch, and hit the start button. It started right up on first try, so I let it warm up and eased off the choke. It held a nice steady 1250 idle RPM. Damn. I guess that’s good news given what I found out last night. So I figured I might as well check the compression again, and with the engine mostly warm, I got 80 psi with the KACR engaged. That’s within the book spec for a cold engine (barely).

I spent the rest of the afternoon inspecting, lubricating, checking things over, replacing the clutch lever, and degreasing the years of accumulated chain lube crud. I then started it again, and it fired right up again.

Now I’m considering hypotheses for why my compression was low last night, but within specs today. I’m thinking that there was some varnish or corrosion or other dirt on one of the intake valve stems that didn’t allow the valve to fully close, and that running it with some fresh gas and letting it sit overnight loosened that up. Time will tell.

Any other hypotheses?
 

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Varnish on valve stems could be possible. As well as carbon flakes between valves & seats,
It might not hurt to run a tank of fuel treated with Chevron Techron thru the engine with fairly aggressive throttle hand when ever opportunity avails and do another CCC test & valve clearance inspection?
 

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Now I’m considering hypotheses for why my compression was low last night, but within specs today. I’m thinking that there was some varnish or corrosion or other dirt on one of the intake valve stems that didn’t allow the valve to fully close, and that running it with some fresh gas and letting it sit overnight loosened that up. Time will tell.

Any other hypotheses?
That's what I was thinking too....

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, that’s my plan—ride it for at least a fresh tank of gas, and maybe throw some Techron concentrate in it too. Then see if it has any more problems. Then recheck compression. At the beginning of this thread I mentioned that it sat for a couple years, so some varnish, carbon, or crud on one of the intake valves is quite possible.

After cleaning it up yesterday, it looks like one of the fork tubes may be slightly bent. I’ll have to loosen up the triple clamp and rotate it to see if it’s true or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This afternoon, I started the bike several times. Started right up. Rode it around yard and it worked normally. Removed luggage plate and rack and tail section. Repaired left taillight and reinstalled. Cleaned and greased taillight and turn signal connections. Removed cowl and straightened cowl frame. Replaced 2 turn signal bulbs. Reinstalled cowl. Reinstalled and aligned side panels. Brake light not working.

I will ride it 100 mules or so tomorrow or Wednesday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Update: yesterday I put about 60 miles on it. It ran great. Good throttle response and power, in fact, it felt livelier than my 2013 in which I recently installed a 692 big bore. Part of that is certainly due to the weight difference—my 2013 has crash bars, pannier rack and panniers, tools and oil bottles and extra crap in the panniers, plus the 24 lbs of extra avoirdupois of the Gen2 vs Gen1, so probably around 50lbs total weight difference. However, the 1998 has a 16/43 sprocket set, and the 2013 has the stock 15/43 sprockets, so that should offset the additional weight.

I suppose it’s possible someone has been inside the engine before and done a big bore. Or maybe it’s just a strong runner. I did note that when I reshimmed the valves, the cam sprocket marks lined up exactly on the edge of the head with the crank at TDC, so that’s correct, whereas the 2013 has both sprockets 1/2 tooth advanced. (I had to choose between 1/2 tooth advanced or 1/2 tooth retarded and EM said to go for the 1/2 tooth advanced).

Either way, the low compression I measured last week is not affecting how it’s running! Probably some crap on one of the intake valves that cleared itself. Next time I have the tank off, I’ll check the compression again.

It also handled well (for a KLR!), didn’t have any odd pulls or wheel vibrations or high speed weaves. Front brake worked well, but not quite as strong as the 2013, and rear brake was kinda mushy and not as strong as the 2013. The handlebar is tweaked a few degrees to the right when traveling straight ahead. Hopefully loosening the triple clamp and axle will restore alignment. So, I have some chassis things to sort out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Today I got the ignition switch rekeyed to match my 2013 Gen2 to reduce key chain clutter. Fortunately, they use the same key blank. I also loosened up the fork triple clamps and straightened the forks, which were slightly twisted. I put another 40 miles on it, and it continues to run strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Today I finished draining the front brake, removimg, disassembling, cleaning, and lubing the front master cylinder and straightening the brake lever.

However I overdid the heat on the end of the brake lever, and the ball end melted off. I knew that there is a very small delta between the point where aluminum softens up so it can be straightened with light force, and just turning into liquid (unlike steel which has a wide range of working temperature). Next time I’ll have to hold the torch a bit further away and test its malleability continuously. But the lever is usable, just doesn’t have the ball on the end.
 
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