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However I overdid the heat on the end of the brake lever, and the ball end melted off.
I only use propane torch & keep light, continuous pressure on a Vise-Grip while straightening hand levers, keeping the heat on the larger portion of metal below the still bent portion.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I was using an oxy-acetylene torch. Too much and too concentrated heat. I’ll try the propane torch next time.
 

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...I just buy a new lever.....I've never had good luck straightening them and they always seemed weaker afterwards.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Where’s the challenge in that?!

Besides, then I would have to stop what I’m doing and ride 40 minutes to the Kawi dealer, etc. ...which I’ll probably end up doing eventually (when I need some other stuff), but in the meantime I have a working brake lever. Sort of. 🤪
 

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Where’s the challenge in that?!

Besides, then I would have to stop what I’m doing and ride 40 minutes to the Kawi dealer, etc. ...which I’ll probably end up doing eventually (when I need some other stuff), but in the meantime I have a working brake lever. Sort of. 🤪
Don't mind me, I'm epically lazy - comes from trying to keep 4 offroad race bikes going all the time; if I can bolt on a replacement and get them back to the start-line I'm happy. I save the more innovative repairs for when I have no choice. :LOL:

(y)

Dave
 

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I would be willing to bet, that one or the other of my spare hand levers in my fanny bag was straightened after installing a new or straightened one on the trail some time ago. Only takes about 5-6 minutes in a vise, with a propane torch, usually. :)
 

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I would be willing to bet, that one or the other of my spare hand levers in my fanny bag was straightened after installing a new or straightened one on the trail some time ago. Only takes about 5-6 minutes in a vise, with a propane torch, usually. :)
see; 5-6 minutes vs. 1 minute to swap a new lever on - I told you that you guys underestimate how lazy I am! :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The southern couple sections are easy access from where I live. The middle and northern parts will require overnight somewhere along the route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I live in Kalama, WA. A month ago I started the southernmost section and got stuck in snow. Was able to get it turned around and back out. It’s 80+ degrees here today, and the snow is melting at the higher elevations, so it’s getting time for me to have another crack at the section from Carson to Packwood. If I get started early, I should be able to ride from my house out to Carson, ride the WABDR up to Packwood, and get back home for late dinner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Discovered a broken doohickey today. The spring appears okay and is attached to the spring arm on the back side, so it was exerting pressure I. The adjuster eccentric shaft. The engine did run quietly,
But if the spring ever broke (and they commonly do) it would have made the engine rattle and possibly the balancers could have jumped a tooth. Or worse.
86F93634-FEA7-4FD2-ADBF-8F31E2BE10F9.jpeg
 

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Probably the doo sliped a tiny bit from the shaft when adjustment was made by PO and tightening the bolt while the doo was wedged made it snap, so sad that anybody who cares about the bike and wants to do periodic adjustment can enter hell without knowing what hitted them if they dont check the doohickey before adjustment.
 

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When I bought my bike it had 4000 km on it. First thing I did was order a Doo kit for it. When I replaced it I noticed some wear on it from, I suspect, the starter gear. I imagine the the previous owner made an adjustment and next time he started the bike it made some noise which scared him into selling it. A new Doo and 60k km later it’s still running strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I discovered another nice feature of this bike the other night when I was troubleshooting the brake light: it has the Happy Trails LED brake light panel. Good and bright.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Installed EM doohickey and torsion spring in my 1998. Getting that spring hooked around the adjuster lever was a real PITA. The old original lever was broken. About 2/3 of the collar that goes around the adjuster shaft was missing. No signs of damage in the left engine case. Now I get to try to fish out the pieces from wherever they are hiding in the sump.
 
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