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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
One of the fundamentals of KLR ownership is being cheap right? So if I don’t want to spend the $113 right now at RM ATV to buy the doohickey, torsion spring and tools for my new to me late model ‘14 KLR with 13k miles I can just pull the side cover, verify spring tension and do the adjustment?

Now assuming all is well and I can still do the adjustment, do I now run the risk of the spring falling off since it will likely have less tension than previously?

If the spring is already loose and/or broken/missing I have to buy the stuff right?

For a third option can I just loosen the lock bolt, manually adjust the doohickey with finger pressure then retigthen the lock bolt in place without a spring at all? Personally I like the manual adjustment idea better than relying on a spring to just get it right.

What is the mileage interval for doohickey adjustment anyway?

Finally what are your thoughts on just buying the torsion spring since the 2nd gen doohickey is supposed to be better quality than the first gen. Does anybody sell the Eagle Mike doohickey with just the torsion spring and not the others? Now go ahead and flame the cheapskate ; )
 

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One of the fundamentals of KLR ownership is being cheap right? So if I don’t want to spend the $113 right now at RM ATV to buy the doohickey, torsion spring and tools for my new to me late model ‘14 KLR with 13k miles I can just pull the side cover, verify spring tension and do the adjustment?

Yes, you can.

Now assuming all is well and I can still do the adjustment, do I now run the risk of the spring falling off since it will likely have less tension than previously?

Yes, you do.

If the spring is already loose and/or broken/missing I have to buy the stuff right?

Yes, you do.

For a third option can I just loosen the lock bolt, manually adjust the doohickey with finger pressure then retigthen the lock bolt in place without a spring at all? Personally I like the manual adjustment idea better than relying on a spring to just get it right.

Yes, you can.

What is the mileage interval for doohickey adjustment anyway?

Per the book, every 7,500 miles. I do it at every oil change, about 2,500 miles. Paul Westman thinks that is too often and every other change is better.

Finally what are your thoughts on just buying the torsion spring since the 2nd gen doohickey is supposed to be better quality than the first gen. Does anybody sell the Eagle Mike doohickey with just the torsion spring and not the others? Now go ahead and flame the cheapskate ; )

No, you can't do that. The aftermarket lever has a different shape to accommodate the spring. Look at this video carefully and note the difference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAryJKr72KM
You should also watch the four video series.
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank you for the quick and clear replies. I guess I will take it apart now and see what I find in there. One more question. Judging from the videos I watched with the rotor/flywheel in place I won’t be able to truly see or touch the spring or doohickey to verify whether it’s already been changed or to check the spring condition. And i wrong? I don’t know anything about it’s prior mechanical care other than I checked the valve clearances shortly after I bought it with 11,200 on the odo and found them mid spec and didn’t appear to have been touched previously.
 

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Well there is cheap and there is CHEAP ... Investing the time to change the spring (not possible as already pointed out) and saving the extra $20 for the doohickey itself ? (You could reuse the gaskets most likely ya know) That seems to be a bit self defeating ... That cost is about 1 tank of gas ... I gotta say, that is definitely an impressive level of cheapness ... Very Impressive ...

Maybe borrow the tools ? They tend to make their way around ... Borrow and then ship to the next guy ???

I'm cheap (like progressive 465 shock as opposed to cogent) But were talking a few hundred bucks difference there ...

Since the doohickey failing "could" "possibly" result in a dead engine far from home, maybe just consider it an insurance policy and do it right and feel happy ;-)
 

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...udging from the videos I watched with the rotor/flywheel in place I won’t be able to truly see or touch the spring or doohickey to verify whether it’s already been changed or to check the spring condition. And i wrong?...
Well, yes you are. Wrong, that is. Sorta.

If you watch the videos this is all explained in great and fascinating detail.

To cut to the chase, once you remove the outer cover you can peer into the inner case, underneath the large ring gear, and you will be able to see the lever.

If you didn't adjust it prior to opening the case you will be able to see the lever move when you release the holding bolt, provided there is tension in the spring. If it doesn't move then there is likely little to no tension in the spring.

From this comfortable vantage point, you should also be able to see the surface condition of the lever and the presence of a torsion spring. If there is a torsion spring then there certainly is an aftermarket lever.

If there is no torsion spring but the surface of the lever has a bright machined look to it then it is likely that the lever was replaced but the mechanic was such a cheap bastard that a torsion spring was not used.

This condition usually leads to gnashing of teeth and utterances like "Cheap *$%&#@^%&* asshat!", but a gentle turning of the ring gear in a clockwise direction may improve visibility to the point where the tip of the torsion spring becomes unobscured. If it doesn't then further gnashing of teeth and rending of garments ensues. Grievous wailing may be heard.

It is at this point when the smart and thoughtful owner will do a manual adjustment of the lever, using a screwdriver to push it to the left, followed immediately by an order for the complete kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got it thanks. I usually am wrong, even when I’m right. Especially if you ask my wife.
Now that the Christmas rush is done it’s time to do some maintenance/repairs/upgrades and try to infuse some style into this beast.
 

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You weren't really wrong. You can't touch or see the spring, but you can see its effect (or lack thereof) on the lever. And you can't touch the lever with your fingers but you can see it and move it with a tool, so you can figure out what it is and make it do things.

Thus the "Sorta" which, based upon my experience, is leaps and bounds beyond what you'll get from the wife (you mouth breathing, inconsiderate, thoughtless, scrotum scratching dullard).
 

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As I understand it, Eagle Mike no longer includes the old fashioned extension springs with his genuine Doo-Hickey. But many after-market suppliers still have the older style EM kits in stock.

So, from any supplier confirm the need to order the Torsion Spring Separately or not! Click this link & scroll down to the Doo & Torsion spring. Read EM's Bolded comment. https://www.eaglemike.com/Fits-all-years-KLR650_c4.htm

Now I did see that if one clicks on the DOO that it does bring up the OLD Info that suggests using the Torsion spring.
The Torsion Spring is the only spring that one can currently acquire from EM.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Congratulations Mr. Zappo you’ve beaten me down. Hope you’re proud of yourself. I’ve noticed mildly increased vibration so I didnt want to put if off any longer. I’m guessing it’s never been adjusted. Thanks to DPelletier’s wise and dire 1st time owner warnings I didn’t have the sack to try the adjuster without verifying the spring condition first. My man card is gone.

It broke my heart to see that beautiful expensive Amsoil 15w50 pouring into the pan. I pulled the side cover tonight and found a loose chain at 13,800 miles. Of course one of my starter gear washers and a caged gear bearing fell out and stuck to the flywheel magnets. The doo spring was intact and tight. I loosened the adjuster and the doo jumped left snugging the chain nicely. There was still decent tension in the spring but I think at most I would have gotten one more good adjustment then it would have been worthless.

To add insult to injury for any true cheap ass the gasket is ruined as well. I’ll be ordering from Rocky Mountain ATV soon and just to avoid being called a “Cheap $&@:[email protected] asshat” by a future owner ( thanks Tom I will use that one again), I will even order a torsion spring! Sleep well gentlemen in the knowledge that you slid $113 from my tightly clenched wallet and put it into the coffers of the industry. 😉
 

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You've added a good point of reference. Having some spring tension left at almost 14K miles puts you at the upper end of the range for the Gen 2 bikes.
 

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Eric, not seeing a location on your profile, where are you located?

All of us KLR riders are cheap to a point, but also appreciate help. If you were anywhere nearby, I would help you out in a heartbeat with tools and such.

Jeff in the North Bay, of the San Francisco Bay Area.

(let me guess, you're in Wisconsin aren't you?)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Worse, east of Pittsburgh PA. Thanks but I’ll get the tools with my order. I’m not truly that cheap but I do like a challenge to save some cash. I must say though after all these years you guys know the beast. Every thing I’ve been told is spot on from the subframe that practically fell off on me to the doo spring. Mine does seem to have been gently used though. Still having spring tension and valve clearances mid range at 13,800 miles is pretty good. Maybe they actually did heat treat the rocker or cam surfaces a little better like I heard.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Actually pulling that cover gives me some relief from worry and also some cause for additional worry. Once in a blue moon (maybe 2 or 3 times in the last 2600 or so miles I put on it since purchase) when starting I get this godawful metallic sounding kind of a snap or like a bang sound. I have no idea what it could be but I assumed I would find the cause when I pulled the cover to check the doo. It seemed to be coming from the side of the case but it happened so infrequently and with no prior warning that nothing is jumping out at me. The mystery continues.
 

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Watch the four videos. If you have already watched them, good! Watch them again.

There are a couple of things you should be sure to do and a couple you should be sure not to do, like let the eccentric shaft come out of the case when pulling the lever off of it.

If you do that, you might have to watch the fifth video....
 

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Congratulations Mr. Zappo you’ve beaten me down. Hope you’re proud of yourself. I’ve noticed mildly increased vibration so I didnt want to put if off any longer. I’m guessing it’s never been adjusted. Thanks to Depelletier’s wise and dire 1st time owner warnings I didn’t have the sack to try the adjuster without verifying the spring condition first. My man card is gone.

It broke my heart to see that beautiful expensive Amsoil 15w50 pouring into the pan. I pulled the side cover tonight and found a loose chain at 13,800 miles. Of course one of my starter gear washers and a caged gear bearing fell out and stuck to the flywheel magnets. The doo spring was intact and tight. I loosened the adjuster and the doo jumped left snugging the chain nicely. There was still decent tension in the spring but I think at most I would have gotten one more good adjustment then it would have been worthless.

To add insult to injury for any true cheap ass the gasket is ruined as well. I’ll be ordering from Rocky Mountain ATV soon and just to avoid being called a “Cheap $&@:[email protected] asshat” by a future owner ( thanks Tom I will use that one again), I will even order a torsion spring! Sleep well gentlemen in the knowledge that you slid $113 from my tightly clenched wallet and put it into the coffers of the industry. 😉

Happy to be of service ... And you will be happy too ...

Now, you have my interest peaked ... You are cheap (self admitted) and yet are running Amsoil (which aint cheap). This is not adding up for me ... I would have pegged you as a Rotella guy all the way ... (Which is actually really good oil) (albeit cheap) ... Ill tell you what. Switch to T5 or T6 and you will pay for that doohickey and tools in no time ... :grin2:
 

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EricZ, You could have saved & filtered your Amsoil 15W50 thru a coffee filter. Or possibly done the work with the bike simply leaning over against the garage wall, still full of oil.

I urge people to use an electric engraver to write "Doo Done" on the alternator cover above the doo locking bolt, so any future mechanic or owner will see it.
I also urge people the rotate the engines CCW to TDC to get all of the chain slack onto the proper side of the system before performing a doo adjustment.

Please give a follow-up posting when the job is completed & test ridden. :)
 
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
pd westman I like your thinking! About the oil, not the engraver unless Harbor Freight is giving one away free... You caught me MrZappo. Maybe not quite as cheap as I portrayed (although I did buy a very clean appearing “Reconstructed” - read as previously wrecked and totaled by an insurance company) 2014.5 KLR for $1700. So what does that tell you??? It’s a new edition for God’s sake !!!

Truly it has minimal obvious evidence of damage. Sure the bike kind of crabs down the road from some leftover fork and/or triple misalignment, the radiator has an unnatural curve, there are some hidden zip ties instead of metal fasteners, the bars are still tweaked causing me some left wrist discomfort and the upper fairing points slightly down and to the left but these will all be addressed (well except for the zip ties) this winter with some of my expert wrenching, some pry bar leverage and maybe a couple top quality (and cheap) Tusk off road parts. It otherwise works flawlessly. Well as flawlessly as 80’s tech thirty years later can work. Even the non-functioning temperature gauge turned out to be a loose wire and not a major cooling issue as I first feared. All is well though, from 10 feet it looks like a pristine mashup of 2014 gothic style and your favorite 80’s movie.

Anyway my cheapness only extends to the point where it will end up costing me major money and inconvenience. I took DPelletier’s newbie rule #4 to heart and I topped it off with good quality oil to the top of the window until I learned its oil consumption issues. Now that I know there are none some Rotella 5/40 might creep into its cases just like it does in everything else I own.

Has there ever been a thread for the most shamefully cheapest things you’ve done with a motorcycle (or anything else). Could be good for a few laughs and might give me some ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I’m trying in vain Tom to find the 4 videos you’re referring to and hoping I don’t need the fifth since that doesn't sound good. Are they on YouTube? So far I’ve only found 2 part versions and one of them had to nerve to demand that I discard the old rotor bolt and put a new one on. My cheap alarm is starting to ring.
 
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