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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heated Vest works fine on battery but you need 2 if you are riding all day. plugged into the dashboard with a USB extension cord but it didn't work.

Heres the specs off the vest battery and the charger I tried plugging the vest into.

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Can i get a more powerful charger? More amps? Not sure how to read the specs on this but i would like to delete this battery!
 

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Your link to the "Heated Vest" did not open for me, so I can't tell what you have. Need more info on the vest and battery.

That's probably not a "charger." it is a 12 volt cigarette lighter "adaptor." What kind of output does it have? A USB socket? Something else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your link to the "Heated Vest" did not open for me, so I can't tell what you have. Need more info on the vest and battery.

That's probably not a "charger." it is a 12 volt cigarette lighter "adaptor." What kind of output does it have? A USB socket? Something else?
the vest is listed as 5V3A
i plugged it into a 12v cigarettle lighter adaptor with the usb socket and ran the power to the vest with a USB extension cord and i didn't feel the vest heat up.
so i'm not sure how to read the specs on the "adaptor" (the string of numbers between the parenthesis) or if there is an adapter available that will at least match the output of the battery? which is listed as 5V and 3A
just wondering if you all have any experience with this sort of thing thanks
 

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That's not a motorcycle vest. It may reduce the chill for someone wearing it walking around town, but that's about all it's good for. 5v x 3A = 15 watts, which ain't much. The 12v adaptor to a USB has a very limited output, maybe 20 watts, probably less. That's adequate for charging a phone or running a GPS unit, not anything that draws more current. A heated garment for a motorcycle use is more like 70-100+ watts, so it cannot be powered a USB port. Instead, those plug into a 12volt connection, either directly into the cigarette lighter, or an SAE 12V plug. Look online at Cycle Gear for examples.
 

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In theory it should work. Your plug adapter has a max output of 36 watts, the battery pack maxes out at 22.5. The wildcard is not knowing what the vest input requirements are. If it requires 9v, you're adapter may be a little shy - it provides a max of 2 amps, the battery pack provides 2.22 amps. Is there a tag anywhere on the vest that lists technical details?
 

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In theory it should work. Your plug adapter has a max output of 36 watts, the battery pack maxes out at 22.5. The wildcard is not knowing what the vest input requirements are. If it requires 9v, you're adapter may be a little shy - it provides a max of 2 amps, the battery pack provides 2.22 amps. Is there a tag anywhere on the vest that lists technical details?
That vest is the incorrect voltage to plug directly into a 12v system. If you want to plug into the bikes electrical supply, you need to get a 12v rated vest, or any other heated gear. You can charge the battery from the bike with the appropriate adapter, but that's it. I use an Iurek zd920 vest by supplied battery pack. Lasts almost 9hrs on a full charge on low. That's plenty of heat under a lined windproof shell(leather). I run my heated gloves via a temp troller hard wired to the battery with an in line fuse. No fear of overwhelming the electrical system like that. But you CAN get a dual zone controller (2 heated gear items at once) provided you do your research of amp/watts draw vs available amp/watts. output.
 

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In theory it should work. Your plug adapter has a max output of 36 watts, the battery pack maxes out at 22.5. The wildcard is not knowing what the vest input requirements are. If it requires 9v, you're adapter may be a little shy - it provides a max of 2 amps, the battery pack provides 2.22 amps. Is there a tag anywhere on the vest that lists technical details?
Well, I'll differ. The vest is only rated for 15watts. That's not enough to make a difference in your perceived temperature on a motorcycle. The "36W" adaptor is for BOTH USB ports, not one. It's roughly half that for one USB port, and as is usual with Chinese crap, that's probably optimistic.

Faruq: You can spend a lot of time and effort, and eventually money, screwing round with the vest you have, and you will not be satisfied. The bottom line for you is that if you want a heated vest, buy one intended for use on a motorcycle (or snowmobile) that uses 12 volts, and plugs directly into the cigarette lighter (not through a USB adaptor that only puts out 5 volts), or connects to an SAE plug wired to the bike's 12V electrical system. I speak from experience.

If you're limited on cash right now, the weather will be warming up shortly, so save your pennies until the fall and then buy the real thing. This is a case where "you get what you pay for."
 

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thanks for the responses. since this is a relatively low powered vest i was hoping you all had a trick to run it off the dashboard power. i'll abandon this project and just use the battery for now and get a more powerful vest next winter!
That vest you now have should work fine as intended by the included battery supply. There is a "hybrid" type of heated gear available that allows the option to either work off of a 12v battery pack (not 5v !) or attach to a wiring harness that draws from the bikes 12v system. Unfortunately, when an attempt is made to power a 5v, 7v, etc..product off of a 12v system, it won't work. Even if you have a device to make the physical wire connections. Independent battery pack powered devices work well, but with limitations.
 

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thanks for the responses. since this is a relatively low powered vest i was hoping you all had a trick to run it off the dashboard power. i'll abandon this project and just use the battery for now and get a more powerful vest next winter!
I have the same kind of vest made in China, bought it for about $24 if I am not mistaken. I just wish I bought a size smaller.
I use the cheap USB charger with 2 amps capacity and wire it to the bike battery. Don't use that fancy QC thingy, they are meant for charging cellphone. They have Qualcomm chip inside that needs to communicate with the load before pumping high amps.

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There you go - I knew if it was running off a USB port on a Li battery pack, it was running on USB power, and should be able to run off an adapter. Now I know why it wouldn't run off that particular adapter.
 
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