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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I looked at a 06 KLR yesterday with about 15k miles on it. The bike is a beauty even tho the owner negelcted it. There is a few minor rust traces(on spokes, a little on the brakes) and the wiring can need some retaping. I guess I could treat the rust somehow if I take the bike apart, nothing major. Id need to clean the whole thing anyway...

What conserned me more was that there was a good ammount of dirty grease at the lower end of the rear suspension. Is this suspension still usable with putting a new seal in or needs to be replaced?

Also I found water leaking from the radiator, the owner told me its because they just cleaned it, and yes the aluminium part was a bit wet so i guess the radiator blows some water out, it didnt have any coolant leaks!

And then the last thing, the oil looked a bit dark but not bad , the owner told me that he changed the oil regulary since the bike has been staning for 6 months and it turned dark again and I know that can happen when there has been old oil in an engine once, but what could I do to get rid of that? Just do 5 oilchanges after another? XD

All in all Id love to do a project out of it, but I just dont know if its worth it. guess i could talk him down to 1.7-2k and if its nothing major the g1 is worth hell of money here in mexico now...and ill have saved a beauty from slowly dying away!

Appreciate any help I can get! Thanks
 

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What conserned me more was that there was a good ammount of dirty grease at the lower end of the rear suspension. Is this suspension still usable with putting a new seal in or needs to be replaced?
You could possibly be seeing chain lube sloppily sprayed over the lower LH linkage & seldom degreased.

Most KLR's need to have the entire rear suspension disassembled and the needle bearings thoroughly repacked.
The web sites used to joke about "The Asian Grease Shortage".
The rear engine mount needs to be loosened to get the lower rocker assembly out from between the frame.

The lower rocker arm pivot bolt passes thru the lower hollow frame pipe and there are two stupid holes on the back side of that hollow pipe. These holes let water in around the shaft and corrodes the shaft into the sleeve that passes thru the needle bearings.
The shaft needs cleaned & waterproof bearing grease applied. And then one can either thread & tap those 2 stupid holes for machine screws or simply use a blob of RTV silicone.

Wouldn't hurt to disassemble & grease the steering bearings also.

As to the engine oil. I'll bet that it is not nearly as dark as you think it is. Remove the oil fill cap and wipe a little oil off of the clutch. You will probably find it pretty clean. Your just looking into the dark recesses of the engine, with no light behind the window.
You could also simply remove the oil Filter Cap to confirm that the By-pass Pin is inside of the filter (without the center pipe the filter doesn't filter anything).
If you do this after being parked overnight, you will hardly loose a drop of oil. Because the oil filter mostly drains back into the sump overnight.
 

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dark engine oil is common to all KLR's and happens almost immediately after an oil change, I wouldn't stress about it - having ENOUGH oil is 1000X more important. The dirty grease probably isn't an issue unless it's not really grease which could indicate a blown shock (relatively common).....but even still, that wouldn't stop me from buying the bike

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
dark engine oil is common to all KLR's and happens almost immediately after an oil change, I wouldn't stress about it - having ENOUGH oil is 1000X more important. The dirty grease probably isn't an issue unless it's not really grease which could indicate a blown shock (relatively common).....but even still, that wouldn't stop me from buying the bike

Dave
The oil was about half full when i leaned the bike off the sidestand. I really like the red g1 its really beautiful, and the only one in whole mexico thah isnt up to 3k $ because of some rust etc. when I started the bike and killed and restarted it a few times the owner put on the joke, in order for it to start easy, what you think about that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You could possibly be seeing chain lube sloppily sprayed over the lower LH linkage & seldom degreased.

Most KLR's need to have the entire rear suspension disassembled and the needle bearings thoroughly repacked.
The web sites used to joke about "The Asian Grease Shortage".
The rear engine mount needs to be loosened to get the lower rocker assembly out from between the frame.

The lower rocker arm pivot bolt passes thru the lower hollow frame pipe and there are two stupid holes on the back side of that hollow pipe. These holes let water in around the shaft and corrodes the shaft into the sleeve that passes thru the needle bearings.
The shaft needs cleaned & waterproof bearing grease applied. And then one can either thread & tap those 2 stupid holes for machine screws or simply use a blob of RTV silicone.

Wouldn't hurt to disassemble & grease the steering bearings also.

As to the engine oil. I'll bet that it is not nearly as dark as you think it is. Remove the oil fill cap and wipe a little oil off of the clutch. You will probably find it pretty clean. Your just looking into the dark recesses of the engine, with no light behind the window.
You could also simply remove the oil Filter Cap to confirm that the By-pass Pin is inside of the filter (without the center pipe the filter doesn't filter anything).
If you do this after being parked overnight, you will hardly loose a drop of oil. Because the oil filter mostly drains back into the sump overnight.
Well there was a good amount of grease all around the bottom of the shock spring, where you can adjust it... I just didnt feel so good with buying it before knowing better, getting a new shock here is time intense and I dont wanna wait too long...
 

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Does the rear suspension rise smoothly after being mashed down? Or does it bounce up quick enough to almost elevate the rear tire? This would be the sign of a worn out rear shock absorber.

The OEM shock spring adjuster is at the top of the shock. It is a 12mm pinion bolt on the LH top side. Best to rotate it CCW to confirm it is down to #1 before turning the pinion CW up to #5 position. Some of the labels were mis-applied and if you turn the pinion one more rotation the system drops to #1 with a bang. Possibly not good on the system.
There is a little black plastic cover on lower RH side, over a little dial at the very bottom of the shock to adjust rebound damping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does the rear suspension rise smoothly after being mashed down? Or does it bounce up quick enough to almost elevate the rear tire? This would be the sign of a worn out rear shock absorber.

The OEM shock spring adjuster is at the top of the shock. It is a 12mm pinion bolt on the LH top side. Best to rotate it CCW to confirm it is down to #1 before turning the pinion CW up to #5 position. Some of the labels were mis-applied and if you turn the pinion one more rotation the system drops to #1 with a bang. Possibly not good on the system.
There is a little black plastic cover on lower RH side, over a little dial at the very bottom of the shock to adjust rebound damping.
Okay thanks so much for that I will look out for it,
28576

This is how the whole thing looks, also someone told me bottle at the cleanside airboxhose was not sealed and probaly blew the piston by sucking in dirt, what do you think?
 

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Okay thanks so much for that I will look out for it, View attachment 28576
This is how the whole thing looks, also someone told me bottle at the cleanside airboxhose was not sealed and probaly blew the piston by sucking in dirt, what do you think?
If it doesn’t burn oil, then I seriously doubt enough dirt got in there to do any damage. If it does burn oil, then yes.
 

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also someone told me bottle at the cleanside airboxhose was not sealed and probaly blew the piston by sucking in dirt, what do you think?
It appears that the upper section of hose is also getting rotten, so it also needs replaced. That black hose is 'stepped' up to a larger size at the forward nipple on the bottom of the air box. And the newer model bikes simply went with a larger diameter clear vinyl hose for the full length & a plug at the bottom. You may be able to purchase the appropriate sized hose & plug at a local hardware store?


then I seriously doubt enough dirt got in there to do any damage. If it does burn oil, then yes.
Redbarron321,
Any dirt or dust thru an engine causes additional wear & and the effects continue forever.
But many KLR's do consume engine oil, especially at elevated RPMs, including mine. How much consumption depends on a lot of variables. (And I've got a few simple modifications which may reduce consumption.)
A KLR engine can live a long time with 1/2 - 1 liter/qt of oil consumption per 1000-2000km. And oil is relatively cheap, engine rebuilds cost a bit more up front.

The rider has got to check (and or ADD oil) every morning before 1st start & 3 or 4 more times during the day, until you learn your engines appetite or lack there of for additional oil.
 
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