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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So today it almost left me stranded. Before after it stalled it would always restart right away which led me to believe it was a weird fuel problem. This time when it stalled it wouldnt restart, even after fuel had clearly filled up the whole fuel filter. I took it apart and looked at the cdi area. The plugs were not quite plugged in all the way so I have since fixed that problem and made sure everything is plugged in all the way. Took off the spark plug boot and found a metal piece in that area that looks to be unrelated but removed it anyways. Also noticed that the spark plug wire had been rubbing on one of the valve cover bolts. Its not worn through and not sparking to the cover when touching so I also do not think that is the problem but i gently secured it so it wouldnt touch anything metal.

At this point I am thinking it is the cdi or the coil itself. It sucks that it wont just stay broken so I dont have a good way of telling whats broken as when it is running, it acts totally fine. I am leaning towards the CDI but really hoping that is not the case. Thinking I will just order a CDI and a Coil and replace them both though. Best place to get a CDI? I see used ones on ebay but not quite sure if I want to risk a used one.


EDIT: Ignore this part. This is just what I first typed when trying to figure this out. So basically the title, regardless of how much fuel is in the tank, regardless of bike temperature, it will just stop feeding fuel and die. After stalling, you can just pull in the clutch and start it back up with no problems and continue riding without pulling over or anything. Originally I thought it was a petcock or vacuum line problem but the fact that I can just restart it without pulling over or doing anything to it leads me to believe its something else.

Now I do have a fuel filter in line. I drove it 150 miles from vermont to rhode island this past week. It had 0 issues and did not do this no fuel problem. It did not start happening until the next day after that trip. Since it didnt happen on that trip during the 150 miles and never happened before that trip im hesitant to think that its the fuel filter as the previous owner had it installed many miles ago and didn't mention it and it hadnt happened to me before the long trip when I had done roughly 200 miles on it.

So any thoughts?
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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What year is your bike and how many miles? Later models have a tiny fuel strainer in the fuel line to the carb, where it attaches to the carb. Check that. Then work your way back to the petcock strainers. Those stick up into the tank from the petcock. Remove the petcock to see if those are covered with rust scale or other crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What year is your bike and how many miles? Later models have a tiny fuel strainer in the fuel line to the carb, where it attaches to the carb. Check that. Then work your way back to the petcock strainers. Those stick up into the tank from the petcock. Remove the petcock to see if those are covered with rust scale or other crap.
Its a 2003. You think that could work like that though? Just be fine for 3-400 miles and then suddenly randomly have issues that resolve themselves if you just restart the bike?

Kind of seems like if rust or something was clogging the strainers, it wouldnt block the fuel all the way, and then 10 seconds later be clear again right?
 

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might your issues be happening during periods of high load (heavy fuel use)?

my 2000 came with an external fuel filter with a paper element. i'd sometimes have symptoms similar to yours until i replaced it with a brass element filter.

broke that one too many times while removing fuel lines and just eliminated that altogether, the strainers atop the petcock are enough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
might your issues be happening during periods of high load (heavy fuel use)?

my 2000 came with an external fuel filter with a paper element. i'd sometimes have symptoms similar to yours until i replaced it with a brass element filter.

broke that one too many times while removing fuel lines and just eliminated that altogether, the strainers atop the petcock are enough...
Doubtful. Rode highway today for 11miles at 70. No problem. 20 mins in to ride home stalled while on a back road doing 40. It's legitimately just whenever it feels like it and totally random.
 

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2002 KLR 650
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Kick stand kill switch . Clutch kill switch. Mine (2002 10K) was fussy and intermittent. Left me stranded. By-passed both and no worries since. Super common. Not saying this is your problem, but an easy way to narrow down your troubles. Good luck. It's always fixable. T.
 

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You might have loose connections on the ignition coil small primary wires? Vibrations may be unseating them?
 
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Okay, let’s back up. You initially said “it will just stop feeding fuel and die.” How do you know that? What troubleshooting have you done? Have you tested for fuel flow from the fuel hose? Or are you just assuming that because it quits and then starts again that it’s fuel flow?
 

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If the fuel tap is still vacuum operated - would be good to eliminate that
If the side stand switch is still in tact - that could be disabled temporarily at least
Additional fuel filters on the KLR is a bad idea unless its the wire mesh type, which doesn't filter as much as the socks on the petcock - basically useless

definitely not enough info in the post to point in any direction - a spark issue can feel like running out of fuel.

Gen 1's have kill switch issues, often charge coil or CDI issues
All years have side stand and wiring issues that could be intermittant and feel like fuel starvation

new editions have a filter in the carburetor fuel inlet elbow, it should e checked or eliminated>

the fact that it can be immediately restarted points to ignition (in my mind)

soo many directions this could go without further testing.
30356
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now that I've said it and read through. I'm thinking it's probably not fuel related at all. I assumed it was fuel just because when it dies and I pulled over there's no fuel in the fuel filter. I'm realizing now that between when It dies and when I pull over it could be rotating and taking the remaining fuel but not running do it doesn't replenish it.

I really have no idea where to start. I'm going to look today at the kickstand Killswitch and check the wires on the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, let’s back up. You initially said “it will just stop feeding fuel and die.” How do you know that? What troubleshooting have you done? Have you tested for fuel flow from the fuel hose? Or are you just assuming that because it quits and then starts again that it’s fuel flow?
Ok so now I've actually taken it apart a bit. After seeing how long it runs before the fuel filter is out of fuel, I'm completely on the fuel problem train. That fuel filter when it's full of fuel takes like 10min to run out. If it was a spark problem or something else, when I pulled over there's no way the fuel filter would have no fuel in it right?
 

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You have a fuel filter ? Like a large one ? Restricting fuel ? Mine doesn't have an inline filter. Something I left out in my previous reply, my bike would run/ride fine. All of the sudden it would die. All the electrical worked. Like it was out of fuel. I could pull in the clutch a couple of times and it would start and run great. That scenario happened a couple of more times. Brain said: Bad wire/ handlebar movement related or something to do with the clutch. I couldn't replicate the problem so I went with the clutch. Learned about the notorious clutch safety switch. Lots of knowledgeable people here to get you going. MarkNet - KLR650
 

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After seeing how long it runs before the fuel filter is out of fuel, I'm completely on the fuel problem train. That fuel filter when it's full of fuel takes like 10min to run out.
I will have to dis-agree with you.
I just started a customers KLR650 which I've about finished working on. Then turned the fuel valve OFF, only running at idle speed on the side stand. One float bowl full of fuel is good for 3:15.

A gravity feed inline fuel filter Will Never be completely full of fuel Unless the Outlet is Pointing UP! (to let the air bubble Out)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will have to dis-agree with you.
I just started a customers KLR650 which I've about finished working on. Then turned the fuel valve OFF, only running at idle speed on the side stand. One float bowl full of fuel is good for 3:15.

A gravity feed inline fuel filter Will Never be completely full of fuel Unless the Outlet is Pointing UP! (to let the air bubble Out)
Yea so its definetly not fuel, its spark. You guys were all right. Almost left me totally stranded today. Had fuel in the filter so I know thats not it and if it was air I assume it wouldnt be an intermittent problem. That takes me to cdi/coil/rectifier yeah?

I assume I can test the excitor stator coil at the rectifier so thats pretty easy to eliminate. If that passes I am thinking I just replace the coil and rectifier and if its still a problem, replace the CDI. Also, when it almost left me stranded I had left from a parking lot and gunned it pretty hard up to 60 through the gears. 1 mile later is where I thought I was going to get stranded. Does that help narrowing it down between those 3 things?
 

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I'll just leave this here anyways, because it may help you or someone else in the future.

Does your bike have the oem automatic vacuum operated fuel petcock on it? A 3/16" vacuum hose to the little square diaphragm assembly on the back half, connecting to a brass nipple at the top front of the carb & a 1/4" fuel hose connecting to the LH rear plastic nipple on the carb?

An empty & Squeezed Visene bottle connected to the carb end of the vacuum hose can Open & Hold the diaphragm open to test the Volume of fuel flow.
At 35 mpg & 105mph a KLR650 needs to flow a Minumum of 3 x 128 = 384oz / 60sec = 6.4 ounces per minute. And I'm pretty certain that the float bowl drain nipple can flow at least that much into an empty & clean milk jug.
 

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Do the free/cheap modification of bypassing those safety switches (clutch and side stand) before spending money on electrical.
 

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The regulator/rectifier has NO connection or bearing on the Ignition System of the 1987-2007 Gen 1 bikes.

Ignition system & battery charging system are totally independant of each other. Purchase a Clymer Maunal for your bike & learn to use it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The regulator/rectifier has NO connection or bearing on the Ignition System of the 1987-2007 Gen 1 bikes.

Ignition system & battery charging system are totally independant of each other. Purchase a Clymer Maunal for your bike & learn to use it.
I have the manual... Its in vermont though, not where I am lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Do the free/cheap modification of bypassing those safety switches (clutch and side stand) before spending money on electrical.
Its not either of these. It will happily start in 1st with the kickstand down as well as start in gear with the clutch handle pulled in. If the clutch isnt pulled in, it just doesnt attempt to start when in gear. So I am going to assume these are not the problems although I will be taking care of the clutch safety switch. Kickstands already been bypassed.
 

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