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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So I took it apart again last night looking more indepth at the electrical situation near the cdi. Noticed that all of the cdi plugs were only in about 90% of the way, not quite enough to actually click the lock bar in but enough so that it was bent. Took them apart, cleaned the connectors out and reconnected them all the way in. I dont think that was the problem but good peace of mind. Took it for a short ride as yesterday it seemed like if I pushed it hard, thats what caused the problem but ran it through the gears and no issues so not sure whats going on now.
 

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Your bike, HNQ, but: Temporarily running a fuel line (without in-line filter) directly from the petcock to the carb (as suggested above), might answer some questions. Again, your bike!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Your bike, HNQ, but: Temporarily running a fuel line (without in-line filter) directly from the petcock to the carb (as suggested above), might answer some questions. Again, your bike!
If I had a length of fuel line, I would. I didnt add in the fuel filter, just came this way and since he'd driven it for a long time like that I assume it's not the issue but maybe that's a dumb assumption. Going to buy some clear fuel line online and replace it though. I just liked the fuel filter to be able to actually see the fuel.

Also went for a ride today. After disconnecting cleaning and reconnecting all the connection on the right side near the radiator, it had no problems. Granted this is one ride and it is intermittent but I think it may have just been something not plugged in all the way or not clean. Going to need some more riding to know for sure i guess.
 

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I've found the oem vacuum operated fuel taps Very reliable over the past 31 years of KLR650 production, I've replaced my personal KLR650 fuel tap diaphragm once in 34 years & 86,000 plus miles & I don't hesitate to use ethanol 'polluted' gasoline when riding regularly.
 

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After disconnecting cleaning and reconnecting all the connection on the right side near the radiator, it had no problems.
Hummmm,
What connections of what were you cleaning? The radiator is on the Left Side. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hummmm,
What connections of what were you cleaning? The radiator is on the Left Side. ;)
Yeah, Im dumb. I just assumed that the radiator went all the way from the left to the right and I wasn't looking at it when I said this.

I disconnected and cleaned the CDI connections as well as whatever else was near there. Seems to be running just fine now that they are clean and plugged in 100% of the way.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Then I’ll recommend one further thing to you: clean every electrical connection you can find by pulling it apart and plugging it back together a few times, loosen/wiggle/retighten screw connections, and then spray them with silicone, or T-6, or white grease, or some other water-repellent goo. Good for another 30 years or so. I’ve solved many electrical problems this way. And while you’re at it, replace the fuses. They develop stress cracks due to heating/cooling cycles too.
 

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"I disconnected and cleaned the CDI connections as well as whatever else was near there. Seems to be running just fine now that they are clean and plugged in 100% of the way."

You might have loose connections on the ignition coil small primary wires? Vibrations may be unseating them?
Do you recall reading this posting?
 

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Kick stand kill switch . Clutch kill switch. Mine (2002 10K) was fussy and intermittent. Left me stranded. By-passed both and no worries since. Super common. Not saying this is your problem, but an easy way to narrow down your troubles. Good luck. It's always fixable. T.
I second kick stand kill switch. Happened to me and I chased down every fuel and CDI option on earth until I got to the worn kick stand wire.
 

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Check for spark first. It’s easy, and if you have consistent spark, then all those other parts are working.

If it ain’t broken, don’t fix it. And only change/fix one thing at a time!
 

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I disconnected and cleaned the CDI connections as well as whatever else was near there. Seems to be running just fine now that they are clean and plugged in 100% of the way.
I second kick stand kill switch. Happened to me and I chased down every fuel and CDI option on earth until I got to the worn kick stand wire.
Oh sorry, I just saw you already checked that.
Check for spark first. It’s easy, and if you have consistent spark, then all those other parts are working.

If it ain’t broken, don’t fix it. And only change/fix one thing at a time!
Apparently was 'fixed' 3 days ago, guys!
 
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