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Greetings. Lost a screw, the right outer radiator shroud with the phillips head. Is the local dealer's parts department the only source for these? Any online sources? I even saved this thread from eaglemike last week:

10-01-2006, 09:47 AM #3
eaglemike
Gnarly Adventurer

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 279

The right front shroud screw, where the shroud
attaches to the tank can do this. It's sometimes a
couple mm too long. Just a place to start. You might
go over the bike front to back, checking all
fasteners. The exhaust bike bolts frequently seem to
be loose on new bikes.


I'd think the miles would be too low for tweety to
show up, but one never knows.....

all the best,

Mike
 

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Yeah, I've lost all the origional srews. The screws in the shroud that attach it to the tank I replaced with hex bolts with lock washers. All the rest I've replaced with zip ties. At first I didn't like the idea of zip ties but I've come to enjoy their plus sides. 1. if you fall on the shroud the zip ties will often break leaving the shroud intact. 2.When removing the shruod it is easy to just cut a zip tie and replace later. 3. Zip ties are easier to carry than screws. :lol:
 

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You can order these screws from Ron Ayers.com. I have lost quite a few items and finally ordered some extras and used loctite as well. I keep the extras in a ziploc bag inside the tooltube.

I also use zip ties on the lower connectors of the radiator shrouds.

Ace hardware carries a good selection of metric fasteners and will probably have most of the items you need.

The rest Ron Ayers has on micro-fiche.
 

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You might try the S/S bolt set on flea-bay. I bought Big Cee's engine kit before he shut down for a while, and the Desmoparts frame kit. Now I have almost two complete sets of screws. I have a buddy at work that has a KLR who I've given a few bolts to that he lost. The Desmoparts kit is pretty complete and comes with the shroud bolts...Doug
 

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Do you have an ACE Hardware? That's your answer.

I have a slew of metric nuts/bolts and replaced mine with hex's also. The same ones that hold the side plastics on fit there IIRC. Those are now hex also
 

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Yup, no need to order OEM replacement screws. Any metric screw of the correct size will be fine. Stainless screws have a certain attractiveness, but can sometimes be soft metal. I replaced most of mine with hex socket head screws so that I only need one tool to take most off, and I really don't care that much for phillips screws.
 

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I like Lowe's or Ace since they have those setups were you can walk up and test a screw to see what it is. You can also look on the parts diagrams on Kawasaki.com and see what the screw actually is i.e. 4x10 would be an M4.
 

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I replaced mine with zipties as they fell out, zipties don't need loctite and can't vibrate loose. They will brek in a crash, but i'd rather break a ziptie than the plastic.
 

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An FYI on bolt replacement.

Getting screws for the shrouds from Ace or other sources is fine but...........

Critical fasteners that require torqueing such as engine covers, head bolts, etc., should be replaced with some caution. When a bolt is torqued, it is actually being stretched. Pounds of torque is a measurement of fastener stretch. Stainless hardware and bolts of non-OE or questionable grade head stampings will not torque within factory specs. A used fastener will not torque correctly. Usually, threaded fasteners are only good for one torque or stretch cycle; this is why replacing the stator bolt when doing the doo is recommended. You run the risk of pulling threads and damaging components using non-OE grade fasteners. Torque values for various metals and grade markings can be found on the NET using Google searches.
 
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