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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I want a clean looking and "proper" way to get take off the California Emission Control System.
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Working from memory, you'll need a few vacuum caps and a block off plate for the head.

The vacuum caps can be those rubber Dornan ones you find at the auto parts store, but I have found that they rot and can leak and that plastic screw protectors work better. You can find the screw protectors at Lowes or ACE.

The places that need blocking off are: one at the vacuum tee on the carburetor, one at the rear of the tank, and one large one at the elbow that goes into the air box under the seat. The first two are small, perhaps 3mm, while the one under the seat is large. The hose is cemented into the elbow but can be pulled out quite easily. The best way to block it off is to take a vacuum cap and shove it in there backwards. I think it is about 8mm.

The block off plate is easy to make with a hacksaw, file, and drill from a bit of 1/2" x 1/8" bar stock from Lowes. They are also available commercially. you'll want to salvage the o-ring from the air injection pipe to put back on the head before securing the blocking plate.

After that it's just a matter of undoing bolts and removing all the stuff and putting it away in a safe place in case you need it later (or, in my case, to continue my reign as the poster boy for hoarding KLR Krap).

I may have some pictures around that will help illustrate; I'll see what I can find and add later.

Tom
 

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That brassy looking thinkwompy is the vacuum port at the carburetor; there is a line from the emissions junk to it. It needs to be removed and capped off.


This is the elbow under the seat that can be blocked off by removing the hose and stuffing a vacuum cap in backwards.


You can see the blocking plate behind the spark plug. I think the commerical ones are better looking.


That's all I have.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Working from memory, you'll need a few vacuum caps and a block off plate for the head.

The vacuum caps can be those rubber Dornan ones you find at the auto parts store, but I have found that they rot and can leak and that plastic screw protectors work better. You can find the screw protectors at Lowes or ACE.

The places that need blocking off are: one at the vacuum tee on the carburetor, one at the rear of the tank, and one large one at the elbow that goes into the air box under the seat. The first two are small, perhaps 3mm, while the one under the seat is large. The hose is cemented into the elbow but can be pulled out quite easily. The best way to block it off is to take a vacuum cap and shove it in there backwards. I think it is about 8mm.

The block off plate is easy to make with a hacksaw, file, and drill from a bit of 1/2" x 1/8" bar stock from Lowes. They are also available commercially. you'll want to salvage the o-ring from the air injection pipe to put back on the head before securing the blocking plate.

After that it's just a matter of undoing bolts and removing all the stuff and putting it away in a safe place in case you need it later (or, in my case, to continue my reign as the poster boy for hoarding KLR Krap).

I may have some pictures around that will help illustrate; I'll see what I can find and add later.

Tom
Thanks and thanks for the pics they should help a lot too.

Tim
 
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