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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I ride to work every day and when I get there my hands are numb (17 miles mostly hwy). My wrist hurts and sometimes my elbow hurts on my right side. I can't tell if it's a uncomfortable position of the bars, issue with my gloves, or the vibrations are causing my numbness.

I have handgaurds with the stock bars with Pro grip 714 grips. I tried using Grip Puppies but threw them in the trash after a 15 minute ride. My Tusk crash bars vibrate a lot when I'm riding and put my hand on them. I've thought about filling them up with something but not sure with what. Maybe zip tie some weight on the bars and see how it reacts.

Anybody else have any ideas what I could try?
 

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Everyone is different but the stock bars have way too much pullback for 90% of riders; this causes issues with pain and numbness - I run Renthal RC Hi's but most decent aftermarket bars have less pullback and will help. I've found that a good quality alloy bar vibrates less than the stock steel ones.

The Progrips are good and I'd caution against the grip puppies, but I see you've found that one out on your own.

I am opposed to adding weight (bar end weights, bar snakes, BB's, etc.) because the KLR doesn't need more weight, it's way up high and because of the added inertia. If I still had issues after a good set of bars, then I'd consider a Roxx anti-vibe bar riser Amazon.com: Rox Speed FX Elite Series Anti-Vibration Handlebar Riser (2" / 7/8" - 1-1/8) (Natural): Automotive If that STILL didn't do it, then I have seen bars that actually have pivots and bushings to quell vibrations though I don't have any experience with them; https://www.amazon.com/TARAZON-adjustable-Handlebar-Vibration-universal/dp/B07QV59R2M

Cheers,
Dave
 

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2002 KLR 650
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My bike came with slight bar risers and pro taper aluminum bars. I wear thin summer gloves most of the time. 6'-2" and long bones. Knobbies. 10 minutes into a ride, my right wrist, hand get numb. My right elbow gets tired. It's highway riding that gets me. Dirt, I'm always moving around for the terrain. For me. My attention went to posture, arm and hand positions. I found that elbow down, wrist cocked up ( like a bird roosting) hurt a lot. I raised my elbows up and flexed my wrists down. Grabbed a higher position on the throttle. Basically straightened out the nerve path. But that's me, age 60, with a history of carpal tunnel and nerve damage. Playing with posture is cheap and highly recommend higher alloy bars. Good luck on fine tuning stuff. Tom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Everyone is different but the stock bars have way too much pullback for 90% of riders; this causes issues with pain and numbness - I run Renthal RC Hi's but most decent aftermarket bars have less pullback and will help. I've found that a good quality alloy bar vibrates less than the stock steel ones.

The Progrips are good and I'd caution against the grip puppies, but I see you've found that one out on your own.

I am opposed to adding weight (bar end weights, bar snakes, BB's, etc.) because the KLR doesn't need more weight, it's way up high and because of the added inertia. If I still had issues after a good set of bars, then I'd consider a Roxx anti-vibe bar riser Amazon.com: Rox Speed FX Elite Series Anti-Vibration Handlebar Riser (2" / 7/8" - 1-1/8) (Natural): Automotive If that STILL didn't do it, then I have seen bars that actually have pivots and bushings to quell vibrations though I don't have any experience with them; Amazon.com: TARAZON 22mm 7/8" Motorcycle Handlebar for Yamaha Banshee 350 Raptor 350 660 700/ for Honda TRX400EX TRX250 450R 300EX/ for Suzuki LTR 250 500 LT500R LTZ 250 400, Anti Vibration universal Handle Bar: Automotive

Cheers,
Dave
Thanks Dave,

I ended up buying the Renthal RC Hi's purely on your recommendation from many other posts and your experience with them. The reason I haven't bought any bar yet because I wasn't sure if my Bark Busters would fit.

Just to see what would happen I filled the stock bars with some play sand I had laying around from another project. I taped up some holes but didn't realize there is a hole under the throttle tube. My new bars arrive Monday so this is purely for my own enjoyment.

I have Rox risers without the antivibe. I wish I would have tried them.

My bike came with slight bar risers and pro taper aluminum bars. I wear thin summer gloves most of the time. 6'-2" and long bones. Knobbies. 10 minutes into a ride, my right wrist, hand get numb. My right elbow gets tired. It's highway riding that gets me. Dirt, I'm always moving around for the terrain. For me. My attention went to posture, arm and hand positions. I found that elbow down, wrist cocked up ( like a bird roosting) hurt a lot. I raised my elbows up and flexed my wrists down. Grabbed a higher position on the throttle. Basically straightened out the nerve path. But that's me, age 60, with a history of carpal tunnel and nerve damage. Playing with posture is cheap and highly recommend higher alloy bars. Good luck on fine tuning stuff. Tom.
Thanks Tom,

I'm 6'3" and 230lbs 30 years old. So not really a small guy either. I do feel like part of my problem is the position of the bars. I tried this week to grab the throttle at a different angle after I'm up to speed. I didn't notice much difference but I think I was already in pain at that point. I'm hoping the bars make an improvement. Every bike is different so there probably really isn't a cut and dry answer for every bike.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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And each rider is different. Some guys like the high and flat handlebars. Others like the bar ends angled back and turned downward (like me).
 

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I recon that I'll throw-in the mechanical possibilities which can add plenty of actual vibration to the bike.
A scalloped front tire from running to LOW of air pressure.
Real dirt capable Knobby front tires, in general. Badly scalloped can be a real BUZZ!
Unbalanced wheels.
Any loose engine mounts.
Too tight of drive chain adjustment. Needs to be loose enough to lift the bottom run up to just touch the rear tip of the rubber under-slider!
Extremely Worn chain & sprockets.
TOO Tight of grip on the handlebars, Relax a bit. Add a throttle lock/cruise control.

Last, but certainly not least, an In-Active engine Balancer adjustment locking lever or spring, aka the infamous Doo-Hickey.
Has it been inspected or better yet, Up-Graded to an EM Doo & Torsion Spring? Were the weights in proper 'time'? It can take upto 35 rotations of the crankshaft to realign all the components(Silver chain links & sprocket timing dots).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I recon that I'll throw-in the mechanical possibilities which can add plenty of actual vibration to the bike.
A scalloped front tire from running to LOW of air pressure.
Real dirt capable Knobby front tires, in general. Badly scalloped can be a real BUZZ!
Unbalanced wheels.
Any loose engine mounts.
Too tight of drive chain adjustment. Needs to be loose enough to lift the bottom run up to just touch the rear tip of the rubber under-slider!
Extremely Worn chain & sprockets.
TOO Tight of grip on the handlebars, Relax a bit. Add a throttle lock/cruise control.

Last, but certainly not least, an In-Active engine Balancer adjustment locking lever or spring, aka the infamous Doo-Hickey.
Has it been inspected or better yet, Up-Graded to an EM Doo & Torsion Spring? Were the weights in proper 'time'? It can take upto 35 rotations of the crankshaft to realign all the components(Silver chain links & sprocket timing dots).
I put on new tires last weekend. Went from D606 to Shinko 805/804. Bike feels smoother but still vibrates. My right hand went numb before and after tire change. I didn't balance either set. I adjusted my chain (to how you said) when I swapped tires. My bike has 6k miles on it. The rear sprocket looked good when swapped tires.

I upgraded to the Eagle Mike Doo last year in the 5k mile range. I have it written down on the exact mileage. I have not adjusted it since. I will add that to my list.

I have a throttle lock already. I don't believe my grip is too tight. I've tried barely hanging onto the bars. It feels like my index and middle finger go numb first.



Oh yeah sand in the bars made little to no improvement. Right hand was numb when I got to work today.
 

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Gloves that are too tight will choke off blood supply to your fingers causing similar numbness. Or seams that cross under your fingers and press against the blood vessels and nerves. I have a pair of leather work gloves I sometimes wear and they will cause numbness if I don’t release my grip and flex my hands a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gloves that are too tight will choke off blood supply to your fingers causing similar numbness. Or seams that cross under your fingers and press against the blood vessels and nerves. I have a pair of leather work gloves I sometimes wear and they will cause numbness if I don’t release my grip and flex my hands a lot.
I rode from work last night with my gloves loose. It made no difference. I've been using these gloves since around 2017. The velco barely holds anymore.

Carpal tunnel syndrome?
That's a possibility. I have bad wrist pain every once in awhile. I noticed it from using a powder actuated stamp gun on metal at work.



I somehow misplaced my barkbuster bar end inserts since moving early last year so I will have to wait until I get new ones in to try the new bars out.
 

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I upgraded to the Eagle Mike Doo last year in the 5k mile range. I have it written down on the exact mileage. I have not adjusted it since. I will add that to my list.
I urge everyone to remove the 2 plastic plugs and turn the crankshaft CCW to TDC (the original assembly point) before allowing a Doo-Hickey adjustment. Gets all of the balancer chain slack on the proper side of things.

Are your spokes snug? Possibly ought to get your wheels dynamically spin-balanced.
 
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The stock grips are small (rubber wrapped around a 7/8" bar) and are too small for "man hands" it seems

oxford heated grips are a nice size, similar size to gel grips, and are much nicer on man hands.

the short risers, like the .75 or 1 " ones EM sells are good to bring the bars closer to you so you aren't reaching and pulling (if thats the case).

relaxing your grip doesn't help if the grips are just too small, especially if you have arthritis


these two things help comfort a lot
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I urge everyone to remove the 2 plastic plugs and turn the crankshaft CCW to TDC (the original assembly point) before allowing a Doo-Hickey adjustment. Gets all of the balancer chain slack on the proper side of things.

Are your spokes snug? Possibly ought to get your wheels dynamically spin-balanced.
Thanks!

I'll give that doo hickey adjustment method a try.

I'm not sure if the spokes are loose. When I pull in the clutch at any speed the vibration in the handlebars goes away completely. I got new gloves today and it made a small difference in being able to tolerate the vibrations.

The stock grips are small (rubber wrapped around a 7/8" bar) and are too small for "man hands" it seems

oxford heated grips are a nice size, similar size to gel grips, and are much nicer on man hands.

the short risers, like the .75 or 1 " ones EM sells are good to bring the bars closer to you so you aren't reaching and pulling (if thats the case).

relaxing your grip doesn't help if the grips are just too small, especially if you have arthritis


these two things help comfort a lot
Thanks

I already have Rox risers. I think bigger grips may help my case. I noticed I am putting more pressure on the outsides of my hands where I hold onto the bars comfortably. I think having less pullback will help even that out and make that a little more comfortable.
 

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The Progrips are good and I'd caution against the grip puppies, but I see you've found that one out on your own.
Dave, what don't you like about the Grip Puppies? I just bought a pair because the stock grip diameter was a bit small for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dave, what don't you like about the Grip Puppies? I just bought a pair because the stock grip diameter was a bit small for me.
For me it felt way too large and made it uncomfortable. I made it about 10 miles before I removed them.
 

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When I first got my KLR I had a problem with my right wrist hurting. I got a throttle palm rest and the pain went away. It was from fighting the return spring on the carb.
 

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Dave, what don't you like about the Grip Puppies? I just bought a pair because the stock grip diameter was a bit small for me.
I find that they are too big and don't last long; I only tried a pair once, years ago, but they were destroyed in short order......I imagine that like most things, it depends what you are doing and where you are riding

cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I have a small update. Got the new Renthal RC Hi bars installed. No noticeable difference in handle bar vibrations. Bars vibrate a lot at 3800rpm. But they are much more comfortable.

I may remove the crash bars and see if there is a difference. I used to have a vibration around 2500 with the crash bars but I added some rubber in between the mounts and it helped a little.
 

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I got already a while ago Anti vibration risers.

Best mod, no vibration at all.

The stock handlebar did pretty good with the Rox risers but later in swapped over for a ProTaper handlebar

But the biggest improvement in vibration and position was the Roxx Anti Vibration Risers

30421
 
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