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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The Rekluse RadiusX for the KLR650 comes with enough stuff to install it either in a '96 to '11½ clutch or in an '11½ to 2018 clutch.

They offer nothing, no clue, no ray of hope, no branch to cling to, for the 'pre '96 clutch.

This is what comes in the package:


Clockwise, from the top: nine TorqDrive fiber/friction discs, the EXP centrifugal dingus, one OEM pre '11½ steel, eight Rekluse steels. In the center are basket clips that go into the slots to accommodate the TorqDrive fibers with a smaller tab and, presumably, to take care of any issues with indentations in the clutch basket. Not pictured are some tuning springs for the EXP to increase the lock-up RPM.

The Rekluse fibers and steels are really thin compared to OEM. With a '96 to '11½ clutch, it will have 10 fibers and 9 steels (the EXP dingus counts as a fiber) so it's pretty dang robust.

The problem with fitting the Reckluse to the pre '96 clutch is that you can't replicate the OEM 7 fibers/6 steels stack height very well with the thin Rekluse discs. The stack will come out either too thick or too thin and by enough to give the clutch lever fits and make getting the right amount of clutch pre-load a problem.

What I had on hand to do a mix 'n match in an attempt to replicate the OEM stack height was a whole bunch of OEM steels and fibers from every clutch that has ever been on a KLR, from '84 to '18. Doesn't that sound impressive, like the Shed of Horrors is just chock full of good shit? Eh, there were only two different steels and one fiber, at least as far as dimensions go. Don't be impressed. I'm just a pack rat.

The OEM stack height on the 'pre '96 clutch is 1.294". I built a spreadsheet to work up recipes. I figured that if I could hit the stack height +/-.010" that would be good enough. What I wanted to avoid, though, was using OEM fibers. To use them I would have to trim a dozen tabs on each disc I used, a tedious chore at best and not easy to do accurately over and over. As well as not using OEM fibers, I wanted to maximize the number of fibers/steels in the clutch.

Here's where I am right now; I got the stack height and managed an 8 fiber/7 steel pack. This also shows a few of the more promising recipes but none with OEM fibers:


Sometime this week, instead of taking the '09 back to the stone age with '84 ignition and a hybrid Gen 1/KLR600 charging (or doing any sort of real work), I'll get this clutch in and see if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
It seems to work fine. Don't know as I like it much, but will give it a fair shake.
 
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Well that cool beans, Tom.

So in 1996 Kawasaki added 1 friction drive plate & 1 steel driven plate in a deeper clutch basket as compared to the 1987-1995 models, correct?
That tall stack clutch (8 friction / 7 steel) was used from 1996 thru 2011.5.

At 2011.5+, Kawasaki converted back to the shorter stack clutch for unknow reasons, but not exactly the original (7 friction / 6 steel) shallow basket, correct?

So what was different between the 1987-1995 shallow basket / short stack clutch and the 2011.5+ shallow basket / short stack clutch that had discouraged Rekluse from fitting their Auto clutch on to the 1987-1995 engines?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I figure that they just ignore the pre-'96 bikes as obsolete, that's all. They simply didn't bother.

Of course, if they do beta testing of stuff, rather than just paper engineering, they'd have to find a couple of pre-'96 bikes that get ridden a fair amount to make sure the stack works right. That might put them off of bothering.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Following bread crumbs . . . a pre-'96 clutch resides in your Generation 2 KLR650, accommodating a kick starter.

If true: "Elementary, my dear Watson."

If false: Silly me!

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Following bread crumbs . . . a pre-'96 clutch resides in your Generation 2 KLR650, accommodating a kick starter.

If true: "Elementary, my dear Watson."

If false: Silly me!

:)
All true, but I think @dallas is interested in knowing how that clutch works, feels, and survives in a real Gen 2 application. There is no one better to answer that than GoMotor.
 

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I guess I'm on the spot here.

I originally installed a Recluse clutch in 2011 KLR. When a balancer shaft bearing went out and blew up the 2011 engine, I moved the Recluse to a 2008 I bought used. In one or the other I had to add or remove some clutch plates. My original intent was to mount a left side hydraulic clutch master cylinder piped to the rear brake to replace the foot brake lever so I could operate the rear brake with my left hand (right foot doesn't work).

It turns out that I can operate brake lever the with my left index finger while pulling the clutch lever with with the other three fingers. I now have the Recluse clutch adjusted so that it is barely engaged when the lever is out at idle. I can just let go of the clutch lever and give it a little gas before releasing the left hand rear brake lever and It accelerates smoothly from a stop. It has worked fine as advertised in both my 2011 and 2008 KLRs.

Although it works very well I don't see why you would need one except for racing or some other special application.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wasn't meaning to put you on the spot.

I figured that you'd be the best one to have firsthand experience with the Rekluse. It seems to have held up for many tens of thousands of miles of fairly rigorous off-road use.
 

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If I understand the operation of a Rekluse clutch correctly, one should still use the manual clutch lever during down-shifting.

Because the centrifugally engaged Rekluse can NOT release itself at normal riding speeds to release during down-shifting. If this is correct information on my part, I think many people have a miss-conception about the Rekluse clutches.

The only real benefit to using a Rekluse centrifugally engaged clutch assembly is it prevents stall-outs at idle & during extremely slow technical situations.
 

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Wasn't meaning to put you on the spot.

I figured that you'd be the best one to have firsthand experience with the Rekluse. It seems to have held up for many tens of thousands of miles of fairly rigorous off-road use.
Yes, mine has held up for many tens of thousands of miles of dirt roads like the Trans-America Trail and the Trans-Canada Adventure Trail, but those are not much of a challenge for any decent clutch.

I think the clutch would be more beneficial for off road racing on steep twisty single track trails. For my use I would not get another Rekluse clutch simply because I learned I don't really need one for my type riding and this one may never wear out. So, bottom line, it is well built, durable and good for its purpose. It is also handy if you have difficulty operating a foot peddle for the rear brake.
 

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I’m wondering if the Rekluse is a viable solution in my 2012 for slow (walking speed) riding while hunting/scouting without having to install lower gearing. I assume I will use the clutch as usual for shifting.
 

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Continuous low speed clutch slippage of either manual or automatic, centrifically operated clutch can severely over-heat the clutch plates.

Best to alter your sprocket gear ratio, IMO.
 

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I’m afraid you’re correct. I’ve been changing my gearing for winter/hunting but was hoping for easier... a smoked clutch is not worth it.
 

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Continuous low speed clutch slippage of either manual or automatic, centrifically operated clutch can severely over-heat the clutch plates.

Best to alter your sprocket gear ratio, IMO.
I'm not that familiar with the Rekluse (though I have ridden a bike with one), but . . . the auto-clutches on ATVs appear rather robust, especially given the rigorous off-road use they endure. Further, off-roaders and racers (as well as motorcycle riding instructors) feather their manual clutches extensively, without lots of trauma; my trail-riding club members who installed Rekluses swear by them (positively). No Rekluse booster, I, but . . . I think a wet auto-clutch might get along o.k.

(I concede, excessive clutch-slipping grenades clutches.)
 

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Damocles, Your Kawasaki Bayou ATV uses 2 different style clutches for 2 different reasons.

The Rekluse is a single, single function clutch. Either dis-engaged or engaged. And either centrifugally or manually Dis-engaged.

When grandpas shift there Bayou ATV's up into 2nd or worse yet 3rd gear so the grand kids (8-12 yrs old) can ride them from 0 - xx speed in a single gear using throttle only, eventually the primary centrifugal clutch gets to the point that it slips even when grandpa takes off from a dead stop in 1st gear, then gets a better grip as the rpms climb a bit. The multi-plate secondary clutch is unaffected until grandpa starts messing with the secondary throw-out bearing lash adjustment & shifter centering screws & lock nuts. Then both clutches begin slipping.

Who is to blame, the kids, the clutch or grandpa himself?

The KLR650 is admittedly a little high geared in 1st gear for rough country & less experienced riders. But I & others have put many a miles on our KLR's even in rough country, in-spite of the slighlty high gearing, by riding just a little quicker.

We have no idea just how slow Dallas wants or needs to go. It could be an expensive experiment.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Just from a numbers perspective, this is impractical.

The Rekluse can be set to lock up a just above idle speed. Let's, for the sake of argument, call that 1,800rpm.

Geared to the stock 15/43, 1,800rpm is gonna be 9mph.

@dallas has said he wants walking speed. That's generally about 2 1/2mph. Let's, again for the sake of argument, say that dallas is exaggerating a bit and really means jogging speed, which might be 5mph.

In order to idle around at jogging speed without slipping the clutch for hours on end, gearing needs to be changed to 14/74. A 74 tooth rear sprocket would be about 15" in diameter and, if it could be custom-made, might pose some problems with ground clearance if going through tall cover.

Damn thing would be quick off the line, though.
 

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Thanks for doing the math :) you just helped me realize the easier solution would be to ride a small trail bike for my annual hunting trip since I only ride 10-20 miles during this one week. I've been changing the gearing to 14/47 but that's still a little fast. It's just hard to leave the KLR at home. Aside from the 'trip' I have been curious about the Rekluse/KLR combo.
As usual I really enjoy reading all your advice/comments. Thanks for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If you get serious about using a Rekluse, drop me a line. I have a reasonably priced one that probably has less than 20 miles on it and was only ever ridden on a Saturday by a little old man from Redondo Beach.
 
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