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You were wanting to axe a kestion?
 

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Dunno what you're doing, but I'd do it this way.



A good place to mount a relay that also has ready access to a terminated brown wire is down by the horn. There is also handy access to a couple of frame grounding points.

The positive side of the horn is a brown wire, so it is always hot when the key is on. The horn is activated by completing the ground circuit through the horn switch. It is easy to tap off of the horn terminal, so you don't have to cut into a wire to get to the 'switched-power' circuit.
 
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I overkill stuff so I'd add one more 2 amp (or so) fuse where I tapped into the "key on" hot before the switch. That way if something shorts in the new wiring, the factory wiring should still stay hot and not blow the factory fuse to whatever you tap into. Wouldn't want to cause the lights to go out a night because your add on wiring shorted ;)

Also just a note for the new guys: The relay ground could be close to the relay and doesn't need to be at the same place as the load ground.
 

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No, hadn't heard of that one. I play around with some Seed Studio stuff. I got my pocket oscilloscope from them.

It was real handy when I was looking at the ignition stuff, the low tension side of the coil and the exciter coil output.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So does KLRForum have AdTracker?
Are you guys looking at algorithms???
And how'd you get the photo I CAN'T POST?!?!
Checked out FritzFritz too; I can't even understand how to Navigate the dang Site!!!

Yes, I had a Relay Q and finally hit up YT to discover the same as presented above and THANK YOU.

I was a bit lost on the Relay Red/Blk In and my Q was towards powering the Relay and ALSO Switching it and you guys covered that. The YT Vid also helped me 'connect the dots' by understanding my UNnumbered Relay (but wires already connected). I put it on a meter to figure out the basics since I just wasn't clear that the Relay is Powered AAAAAND SWITCHED!

I'll add Fuses on 'Extras' (Charging Station, Fogs, Fan Switch) so if MY work goes South, the whole Bike won't shut down. One YTuber said we 'should' add a fuse in the PowerLine FROM the Relay (to LoadDevice) as well as TO the Relay. He said most don't do it but they are supposed to. It sounded more like a PartyFoul than a DeathSentence call, so I'll opt out of those. I'll fuse the Switch AND the Relay as suggested.

I'd figured out to hover near the horn, and that Euro-HeadLight + and - Terminal (unused) is there, too. Also like the idea of easier splices, etc at Horn area. And there are plenty o' places to add Relays, etc for a more
elegant
install.

I think one-a you said that, while not necessarily suggested, a Fan Switch added would NOT need a Relay? I'm thinking to Power my 2nd Switch with the + and - IN, and the + out would splice into the + wire of the Fan... could it be that easy? Yes, I likely won't benefit from the FanSwitch so much but here in PHX, we liken them to a SecurityBlankie... it just makes me feel better. And if it's THAT EASY, WELLLLL!!!
 

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So does KLRForum have AdTracker?
Are you guys looking at algorithms???
And how'd you get the photo I CAN'T POST?!?!...
I'm a moderator, so I can edit your posts. Nothing showed up in a normal view, but I knew you hadda have something in there that wasn't working. I used the edit feature to look at what you had posted, which was an imgur URL embedded in URL and IMG tags.

Problem is, that dog won't hunt, plus your imgur URL did not have a '.jpg' ending, meaning that the URL was not directing the forum to an image file. That dog won't even get off the porch.

What I did was I went to the imgur URL, saw the picture, right clicked and selected "Open image in a new tab", which gave me the picture and a URL with a '.jpg' ending.

I put that URL in my post with the "Insert image" tool and some fella named Bob claimed he was your dad's brother and there ya go.

Simple, really, especially when you're a good looking guy with a groovy personality. Describes me to a "T"; I'm just a warm, caring human being. The rumors about me being a cranky sumbitch are only mostly true.

I'm supposed to be doing some real work, so I'll get back to you later with the how and why of a fan switch unless @Damocles comes along and does it first. But, yes, you don't need a relay on that because the stock circuit has a relay in it. You just put the switch from the ground side of the relay's coil to ground. Draws only milliamps.
 
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......I'm thinking to Power my 2nd Switch with the + and - IN, and the + out would splice into the + wire of the Fan... could it be that easy? ..........
Hey you lost me a few electrons ago but if you understand, any part of, what you just said,,,, it could be "that easy" ;)

 

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I'm a moderator, so I can edit your posts. Nothing showed up in a normal view, but I knew you hadda have something in there that wasn't working. I used the edit feature to look at what you had posted, which was an imgur URL embedded in URL and IMG tags.

Problem is, that dog won't hunt, plus your imgur URL did not have a '.jpg' ending, meaning that the URL was not directing the forum to an image file. That dog won't even get off the porch.

What I did was I went to the imgur URL, saw the picture, right clicked and selected "Open image in a new tab", which gave me the picture and a URL with a '.jpg' ending.

I put that URL in my post with the "Insert image" tool and some fella named Bob claimed he was your dad's brother and there ya go.

Simple, really, especially when you're a good looking guy with a groovy personality. Describes me to a "T"; I'm just a warm, caring human being. The rumors about me be a cranky sumbitch are only mostly true.

I'm supposed to be doing some real work, so I'll get back to you later with the how and why of a fan switch unless @Damocles comes along and does it first. But, yes, you don't need a relay on that because the stock circuit has a relay in it. You just put the switch from a brown wire to the relay trigger. Draws only milliamps.
You should have said Russian hackers got into his PC and stole the image.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll connect my 2nd Switch that I'm adding to the Bike to the Fan Relay as T.S. suggested... sounds like that'll be a more elegant solution anyway.

'Grateful for the explanation of my Post Revival... figured I'd left an image floating out there somewhere! I learnt growin' up that if I want help, I gotta make it as easy as possible for folks to want to help. Goin' in and rebuilding my Post and happening on the right answer as well... that's just Service above&beyond!

I'm trying to 'repay' the Forum and hopefully one of my Posts and/or Threads helps someone else, too!
 

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I hacked and slashed at the color schematic to make this, that's why it is so small.

You get the idea, though.



There should be good places to tap into; I like to find a terminal that I can replace, placing the additional wire into the terminal and crimping it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
You get the idea, though.
And to think I was going to 'Switch' the Blue Wire, the Power Lead, and 'Closest to the Fan'. I woulda found that I had forgotten to account for the fact that the Thermo-Sender was STILL IN CHARGE of PowerToFan!!!
Nothing like an O/O Switch to be able to turn on my Fan ONLY when the Thermo-Sender-Unit was actually sending Power... DUH! Great way to DEFEAT MY COOLING SYSTEM!!!
Never fear, I still would-a tested it before I cut/soldered/tubed anything, and then I'd-a been back here...
for more help...
again...

{{{ sigh }}}

Thank the GoodLordAbove for KLRForum...

'Never really tackled Electrical before, especially to this Degree:

Replace/Rebuild/Customize Rear Loom (2 shorts at Purchase, LSideTurns no workenze, 'Blinking' TailLight),
Create FogLight Switch/Fuse/Relay/Ground (2 'exposed' (+) Power Wires),
Create Fan Switch Override,
Create Charger Station/Fuse/Ground,
Create Switch Power Loops x2,
Create 'Extra'(+)Source "Y" (AirPump, JustenKase),
KLR Safety Switch Bypasses (RMV Clutch/SideStand SafetyWiring, another KLRForum idear),
Diode at the DashTurnIndicator (KLRForum),
Create/Power Nitrous Circuit/Switch/Fuse/Relay/Ground,
GoLEDs (replace HeadLightBulb, Tail/StopBulb and busted/fugly OEMTurns),
LED Blues in Dash,
StrobeBrakeLight (KLRForum),
LEDFlasherRelay ilo 4 (count 'em, FOUR!) Resistors (KLRForum, actually coerced me into cutting them out),
TroubleShoot RearBrakeStopSwitch,
Rebuild Heavily Chipped Stop/Start Switch with another (Red Lever PopsOut/In),
Replace HeadLightSwitch,
and some extra 'Fusing/Tubing' hereNthere.

'Glad I bought a REAL SolderIron last year (no more RadioCrap for $19.95, the CordedWand?).

BTW,
ALSO learned last year that SOLDER CAN GO BAD!!!
I made sure to be scientific, though no DoubleBlindPlaceboControlledStudy, by testing
MY OLD (A$$) SOLDER
ag'n
MY NEW SOLDER (same stuff, just newly purchased).

OldWivesTale my butt, SOLDER GETS OLD AND EXPIRES!!!
I mean old, like some of these ProfilePics I see on here... OLD!
... funny thing.

Thanks for the Re-Direct Tom Schmitz!!!


P.S. Just kidding on the NitroCircuit...
 

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...ALSO learned last year that SOLDER CAN GO BAD!!!...
I know I'm an old nag, a ninny, a nattering nabob of negativity, a nitpicker, a nemesis, a nettlesome neurotic, a notorious nuisance, but I don't like solder.

I think it has its proper place, which is in stationary electronics, but not in vehicles' wiring looms. It is rigid, stiff, corrodes, needs a lot of strain relief, and is generally a giant PITA.

In the aerospace industry we went away from soldering stuff before my career even began. Properly crimped connections are much better in terms of wear and tear and general survivability. Nothing in airplanes, race cars, race, bikes, production cars, production motorcycles, is soldered unless it is on a board and in a box (think CDI and VRR).

Yeah, it costs some money because what you need to do is do the same sort of job that the wee Thai ladies do when they make the wiring loom. It requires a quality terminal like those made by Yazaki, Sumitomo, Furukawa, Deutsch, and it also requires special crimping tools which aren't cheap. But it is better, faster, and easier once you get the hang of it.

I'll STFU now.
 

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True, but spot welding doesn't wick up into the wire creating a stiff junction. The weld is within the terminal so from a stress perspective it is as mechanically sound as a crimp yet as electrically sound as a solder. Best of both worlds.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know I'm an old nag, a ninny, a nattering nabob of negativity, a nitpicker, a nemesis, a nettlesome neurotic, a notorious nuisance, but I don't like solder.

I think it has its proper place, which is in stationary electronics, but not in vehicles' wiring looms. It is rigid, stiff, corrodes, needs a lot of strain relief, and is generally a giant PITA.

In the aerospace industry we went away from soldering stuff before my career even began. Properly crimped connections are much better in terms of wear and tear and general survivability. Nothing in airplanes, race cars, race, bikes, production cars, production motorcycles, is soldered unless it is on a board and in a box (think CDI and VRR).

Yeah, it costs some money because what you need to do is do the same sort of job that the wee Thai ladies do when they make the wiring loom. It requires a quality terminal like those made by Yazaki, Sumitomo, Furukawa, Deutsch, and it also requires special crimping tools which aren't cheap. But it is better, faster, and easier once you get the hang of it.

I'll STFU now.
PREACH ON BROTHA MAN!!!
And TOO LATE NOW... I SOLDERED THE POOP OUTTA EVERYTHING I DONE DID...
'Guess I'll just have to ride SmoovSofAndSilky so as not to crack my solders!!!

'Airline Manufacturer'... that explains a lot!
 
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