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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
After high siding I found my foot peg had come off and it wasn't because I hadn't tightened the bolts. Upon further inspection I found the threads had stripped out from rust and corrosion. My answer was two fold....
 

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Buildit,
Sorry, but I have to suggest that the FOOT REST bracket NOT BE WELDED, at least not that completely.
Maybe a of couple tack welds, only.

My reasoning, If you ever have to replace the shift shaft seal, the lower chain slipper, or heaven forbid, remove the engine. You have got a lot of grinding to do in a very confined area.
pdwestman
 

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There may be some truth in that above post....lol.

Best way to fix the issue is to cut out the plate and weld in a thicker one with the enxt size up bolts and use stronger bolts and good old blue!

But to each their own. It's not a simple fix but if you have the skills not difficult either.
 

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This is an old post! I have a Gen 1 KLR that I bought used, discovered that the footpeg bolts had been stripped, and are drilled/tapped out to 10mm X 1.5 - I know those threads aren't in good shape, and there are only 3 threads there to hold! Stock bolts are of course 8mm X 1.25, and I have a Helicoil set, am tempted to do a Helicoil repair. I scrapped a Gen 2 frame from a parts bike I bought (had been in an accident), cut the footpeg brackets off in the hope I could weld them on/use 'em for a repair if needed. I cut the tube portion out with a Dremel cut-off wheel, revealing the back side. The square nut that's tack welded in there is thin, and not very large diameter - literally only 4 threads doing the work:



There's just not a lot of meat there for drilling/tapping out to 10mm:



I notice the Helicoil tap is slightly larger diameter than 10mm diameter, so I might be able to Helicoil it. I'd be much more confident about doing that if it had been tapped out to 10mm X 1.25 (same thread pitch). Thoughts?
 

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Hi -

I had the same issue - stripped foot peg bolts - and I did the fix that Superdoo recommended (https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/fixing-stripped-foot-peg-boxes); essentially, drilling out the old nuts, replacing them with burly 10 mm nuts & bolts from the local hardware store, welding them in and grinding it flush. I'm really happy with the way it turned out and it's a permanent fix.

Good luck!
 

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Yes, I have what I believe is a better IDEA!

Takes four 10mm Flanged nuts turned upside down, welded into Counter-Sunk pockets of the footpeg box.

Use a 7/8 or 15/16 to drill the countersinks, which will basically release the remains of the square nuts from inside the box and remove them with long nose plier.
Drill the counter-sinks deep enough for nut to be level.

The US Navy trained welder that I hired used TIG welder. Barely had to use a grinder for level surface. He said they did thread repairs that way quite often, so it was not a new idea to him.

If you do this type of thread repair, Tom Schmitz would love to include pics in his Souperdoo description of it.
https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/fixing-stripped-foot-peg-boxes.

ps, Looks like Kool-Aid beat me to it. I type slow & got interrupted.
 

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Here's the thing... I can't weld (know a very good welder tho), but I'm pretty good at drilling, tapping and installing Helicoils... and I've already got the kit. Not that I think the weld-in-the-nut approach is a bad idea! I've seen some folks cut the box off, and weld nuts in from the inside... seems like a lot of work. If I Helicoil it, I'll throw up a few pics. If that doesn't turn out OK, I can try the weld in the nut method.
 

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GWN, Don't Heli-coil it!

Just tap them to 10mm, but you need to drill the old nuts slightly, so the tap does 'push-off' a spot weld on the old nuts. That is what had happened to the one I had to have repaired on a customer bike.

You will have 10mm threads thru both the outer flange of the box & the old nuts, so more total threads.
 

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PD, the threads are already upsized to 10mm X 1.5, and they're not 100%. I want to do this, repair 'em for a couple of reasons:
- I've got a centerstand on there that I want to take off, which strangely enough had the mounting holes already 10mm dia.
- I don't trust those threads, they felt on the verge of stripping when I installed that centerstand.
- I want to be able to install JNS lowering footpegs, had 'em on my Gen 2, really liked 'em (they're on my spare bike ATM). It'd be a shame to drill out those expensive lowering footpegs to fit.
- I have a couple of spare sets of footpeg brackets, and already have the Helicoil kit, so no extra expense going back to 8mm.
 

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For what it's worth, and this is only my experience, I helicoiled mine with M8's after I had an SW motech centerstand on the bike for a season and it buggered the footpeg threads really good. It has held for 2 years with little help from red loctite. I check them every now and then to snug them up but they haven't loosened at all yet. I also have the JNS brackets.

As these guys above have mentioned, it's not the best fix out there but it has worked for me so far.
 

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I got the Helicoils installed this morning. The threads weren't that hot, although I tapped it out straight. The problem is that it was previously tapped out to 10mm X 1.5mm thread spacing, vice the 1.25mm thread spacing of the 8mm bolt threads. I cleaned the threads, sprayed out that area (the box) thoroughly with Brakleen, and then electrical contact cleaner, spread a thin coat of JB-Weld on the threads, before installing the Helicoils. I ran a 8mm bolt in and out to check 'em, all good, threads have very little epoxy on 'em, the bolt threading in and out easily. That should be a solid repair. There's 7 or 8 threads there now, full depth, compared to original measly 4 easily stripped threads - the Helicoil steel is much harder than the mild steel used in the stock footpeg mounts. IMO this is actually an improvement (over stock).

 

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I went back and corrected earlier posts - the 10mm coarse thread mentioned earlier, is of course 10mm X 1.5. If someone is going to drill & tap the footpeg mounts out to 10mm, I would suggest sticking to 10mm X 1.25 thread pitch. I checked my tap sets, that size exists. If I'm not mistaken, the Gen 2 upper subframe bolts are 10mm X 1.0 thread pitch! Edit - correction, they are 1.25 thread pitch. A person's gotta be careful to match hardware up correctly.
 

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If I'm not mistaken, the Gen 2 upper subframe bolts are 10mm X 1.0 thread pitch! A person's gotta be careful to match hardware up correctly.
I'm 99.99% certain, even without having a Gen 2 to dismantle to inspect today, that the Upper Sub-frame mounting bolts are 10mm x 1.25 thread pitch.

I do have 4 take-outs from Gen 2 bikes, marked & in my parts stock, #92153-1524, 10mm x 1.25 thread pitch, confirmed.
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b576df8700223e4796ad7/frame

I can't recall any Kawasaki model that ever used 10mm x 1.00 thread pitch anywhere.


If by some chance that the Heli-Coils in those tapped & Re-tapped footpeg mount boxes do not hold over the test of time, you could use the welded Inverted flange nut repair with 8 mm nuts if one so desired to not drill Center stand or JNS footrest brackets.
One could even stack a common nut onto a flanged nut and weld the two 8mm nuts together to Double the amount of threads.
I think I have seen extra tall flanged nuts used on exhaust headers of something. Hummmm?
 

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I'm 99.99% certain, even without having a Gen 2 to dismantle to inspect today, that the Upper Sub-frame mounting bolts are 10mm x 1.25 thread pitch.

I do have 4 take-outs from Gen 2 bikes, marked & in my parts stock, #92153-1524, 10mm x 1.25 thread pitch, confirmed.
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b576df8700223e4796ad7/frame

I can't recall any Kawasaki model that ever used 10mm x 1.00 thread pitch anywhere.


If by some chance that the Heli-Coils in those tapped & Re-tapped footpeg mount boxes do not hold over the test of time, you could use the welded Inverted flange nut repair with 8 mm nuts if one so desired to not drill Center stand or JNS footrest brackets.
One could even stack a common nut onto a flanged nut and weld the two 8mm nuts together to Double the amount of threads.
I think I have seen extra tall flanged nuts used on exhaust headers of something. Hummmm?
You can be 100% certain now... I have a stripped Gen 2 frame, just checked, it is indeed 10mm X 1.25. My mistake.

I installed the footpeg mounts this morning - I wanted to give that JB-Weld epoxy lots of time to cure. They torqued up fine... but I only went to 15 Ft Lbs (call me chicken) - I used blue Locktite, on new 12.9 grade bolts.

I think both the weld in nut approach (a very good idea IMO) and Helicoil repair bear equal consideration. Takes a bit of skill to do a good job doing either IMO, and that's not a job you want to botch.
 

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If I had to repair a stripped foot peg mount I would make a small plate 3/8" thick with two 8mm threaded holes 0.820" apart and weld it to the original foot peg mount.
The pegs would be a little wider but it would not be noticeable.

Terry
 

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If I had to repair a stripped foot peg mount I would make a small plate 3/8" thick with two 8mm threaded holes 0.820" apart and weld it to the original foot peg mount.
The pegs would be a little wider but it would not be noticeable.

Terry
But if one does it that way, centerstands & many engine/fairing guards will no longer fit!
 
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