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tj,
So ok you have confirmed that the fork legs slide into the lower triple clamp easily. Either one of them first, slides clear thru the top clamp easily also.
The problem is the second leg slides thru the bottom triple easily, but then needs 'some persuasion' to go THRU the top clamp.

Sound correct?

I'll suggest that all it could take is 'normal' production variances between the top and bottom centering of bores to create .010"-.020" of mis-alignment. Possible? Perfection is kind of hard to achieve.

Occasionally I see triple clamps that have been 'over-torqued', imagine that!
I have to spread the gap of the clamp with a flat blade screw-driver to allow the leg to start OUT or IN.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
tj,
So ok you have confirmed that the fork legs slide into the lower triple clamp easily. Either one of them first, slides clear thru the top clamp easily also.
The problem is the second leg slides thru the bottom triple easily, but then needs 'some persuasion' to go THRU the top clamp.

Sound correct?
Yep. That sounds correct.

I did purchase the triples that were for sale in the link. When I take things apart, I'll compare the triples I bought to the triples I take off the bike to see if there is anything visibly different. If there is, I'll try the new triples to see what happens.
 

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Yep. That sounds correct.

I did purchase the triples that were for sale in the link. When I take things apart, I'll compare the triples I bought to the triples I take off the bike to see if there is anything visibly different. If there is, I'll try the new triples to see what happens.
At that price you can't go wrong! Can always resell if it turns out you didn't need them.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Any update? I'm curious to see the resolution to this one...

Dave
I didn't get to the bike this weekend. I'm waiting to receive the triples I purchased for back up. I've already reserved my time for Saturday and Sunday to do the work. I'll send out an update as I progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Wheel aligned

First the short version, the front wheel is aligned. The bottom triples were bent slightly. I replaced them with the used triples I purchased and everything went back to being in alignment.

Here is the longer version. I wasn't able to work on the bike yesterday. Life has a way of getting in the way of plans. No worry. I was able to do the work today.

I removed the upper fairing and took pictures. (Edit: I'm not sure why the pictures are not showing up. I'll try to fix and re-post.)

All of the pictures are taken with the bars pointing straight ahead as shown here.


This is a head on shot. You can see that the front fender and wheel are not aligned with one another. You can also see that the front wheel is twisted with respect to the forks.


Front shot without the fender.


Side shot without the fender.


From the side without the wheel.


I disassembled the rest of the front and removed the triples. It was fairly obvious that the triples were tweaked when I set them on a piece of flat plywood and felt the gaps between the wood and the triples. I then spent some time convincing myself that I wasn't just imagining things being tweaked because I expected them to be tweaked. I think this is the best set of pictures to show the difference between the triples that came off the bike and the purchased triples.

Triples off the bike. You can see that the gaps at the bottom of the triples between the two sides is not the same. It's not a big difference. It's much easier to feel than it is to show in a picture. As I think about it now, I could have measured the difference, but didn't think about doing that at the time.


Here is what the gaps look like with the purchased triples. I didn't realize this pic was so bad until I posted it here. Might not show as easily as I'd hoped.


I reassembled the front end. I didn't take as many pictures on the reassembly. Here is the end result with the purchased triples and the front wheel installed. The wheel is no longer twisted in the forks.


I finished the reassembly of everything and then went for a quick test ride. The bike feels fine and the wheel is no longer out of alignment.

Thank you to everyone that offered advice during this journey. A special thank you to ThumperBob for the link to the triples for sale.

--Tom
 

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I'd say if your forks are NOT bent then it is unlikely the triples are bent. Sounds like just an alignment issue.

Glad you are OK BTW!
 

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First the short version, the front wheel is aligned. The bottom triples were bent slightly. I replaced them with the used triples I purchased and everything went back to being in alignment.

Here is the longer version. I wasn't able to work on the bike yesterday. Life has a way of getting in the way of plans. No worry. I was able to do the work today.

I removed the upper fairing and took pictures. (Edit: I'm not sure why the pictures are not showing up. I'll try to fix and re-post.)

All of the pictures are taken with the bars pointing straight ahead as shown here.


This is a head on shot. You can see that the front fender and wheel are not aligned with one another. You can also see that the front wheel is twisted with respect to the forks.


Front shot without the fender.


Side shot without the fender.


From the side without the wheel.


I disassembled the rest of the front and removed the triples. It was fairly obvious that the triples were tweaked when I set them on a piece of flat plywood and felt the gaps between the wood and the triples. I then spent some time convincing myself that I wasn't just imagining things being tweaked because I expected them to be tweaked. I think this is the best set of pictures to show the difference between the triples that came off the bike and the purchased triples.

Triples off the bike. You can see that the gaps at the bottom of the triples between the two sides is not the same. It's not a big difference. It's much easier to feel than it is to show in a picture. As I think about it now, I could have measured the difference, but didn't think about doing that at the time.


Here is what the gaps look like with the purchased triples. I didn't realize this pic was so bad until I posted it here. Might not show as easily as I'd hoped.


I reassembled the front end. I didn't take as many pictures on the reassembly. Here is the end result with the purchased triples and the front wheel installed. The wheel is no longer twisted in the forks.


I finished the reassembly of everything and then went for a quick test ride. The bike feels fine and the wheel is no longer out of alignment.

Thank you to everyone that offered advice during this journey. A special thank you to ThumperBob for the link to the triples for sale.

--Tom
No problem Tom. Glad it all worked out for you.
Bob
 

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...I'm not sure why the pictures are not showing up...
It looks like you are trying to insert a link from a device that is local to your computer, perhaps a Passport external drive.

If so, that won't work. You need to either upload the pictures to this forum in you rmessage, or host them on a service like flickr or PhotoBucket and link to them in your post.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I have the pictures on OneDrive. I've successfully posted pictures from there in the past, but they keep changing things, so I have to figure out how to do it again.
 

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Should be able to right click on the pic, copy the address http blah blah or select "view image info" and copy that then paste here.
 

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Good news. Like some of the others I was skeptical that your triple was bent without bending the forks but as you described the issue, it was becoming clear that the triple was indeed damaged. I figured it would probably be the lower. Glad you got it all fixed up (I'd love to see the pics if you can get them posted)

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Update (fixed links to pictures, hopefully)

First the short version, the front wheel is aligned. The bottom triples were bent slightly. I replaced them with the used triples I purchased and everything went back to being in alignment.

Here is the longer version. I wasn't able to work on the bike yesterday. Life has a way of getting in the way of plans. No worry. I was able to do the work today.

I removed the upper fairing and took pictures. (Edit: I'm not sure why the pictures are not showing up. I'll try to fix and re-post.)

All of the pictures are taken with the bars pointing straight ahead as shown here.


This is a head on shot. You can see that the front fender and wheel are not aligned with one another. You can also see that the front wheel is twisted with respect to the forks.


Front shot without the fender.


Side shot without the fender.


From the side without the wheel.


I disassembled the rest of the front and removed the triples. It was fairly obvious that the triples were tweaked when I set them on a piece of flat plywood and felt the gaps between the wood and the triples. I then spent some time convincing myself that I wasn't just imagining things being tweaked because I expected them to be tweaked. I think this is the best set of pictures to show the difference between the triples that came off the bike and the purchased triples.

Triples off the bike. You can see that the gaps at the bottom of the triples between the two sides is not the same. It's not a big difference. It's much easier to feel than it is to show in a picture. As I think about it now, I could have measured the difference, but didn't think about doing that at the time.


Here is what the gaps look like with the purchased triples. I didn't realize this pic was so bad until I posted it here. Might not show as easily as I'd hoped.


I reassembled the front end. I didn't take as many pictures on the reassembly. Here is the end result with the purchased triples and the front wheel installed. The wheel is no longer twisted in the forks.


I finished the reassembly of everything and then went for a quick test ride. The bike feels fine and the wheel is no longer out of alignment.

Thank you to everyone that offered advice during this journey. A special thank you to ThumperBob for the link to the triples for sale.

--Tom
I think I've finally figured out how to have the pictures correctly show up. Fingers crossed.

I was finally able to take the bike out for a longer test ride after work yesterday. I was out for a couple of hours, riding roads to get to some off road stuff, riding a bit off road, and then riding roads to get home. The off road stuff was a mix of small loose gravel, fresh bigger loose gravel, packed gravel, nice dirt, and a tiny bit of mud.

I admit that I was a bit tentative at first. I purposely took it slower getting to the off road stuff. Then I only did between 10 and 15 mph for at least the first 10 minutes off road as I got used to how the bike felt under me again and I became convinced that something wasn't immediately going to fail on the bike. After about 10 minutes, I started to feel much more comfortable on the bike and by the time I was done on the off road stuff, I was back to normal and feeling confident again. I would have ridden longer, but it was getting dark and my wife was waiting for me to get home for dinner. On the way home, I took the roads much faster. Only got up to about an indicated 65 mph, but everything felt fine and no wobbles. I'll still have to get out and up to 75+ and then load the bike up to see if everything is really ok, but I'm good for normal riding at the moment.

Thanks again for the help everyone provided.
 

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Four weeks ago I went down doing 60 mph. The bike developed a severe wobble that quickly got worse and I went down.
did u figure out the cause of the wobble?

i had a wobble last week, a really bad one. super serious... my bike was doing figure eights almost.. gladly i controlled it. lasted like 5 seconds... i was going like 80 85 with luggage in the back.

my theory was that i had too heavy load on the rear wheel and that caused the wobble on the front.

glad u made it ok.
 

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A tip on wobbles/pre-tank slappers.

The bike, like a shopping cart wheel, starts with a minute oscillation that
is unfelt but is at a frequency that will build on itself. Sometimes quite quickly.

There's a few good tips such as relax while backing off the throttle.

Spreading out the knees and elbows is very effective if it's a wind induced wobble.
The change in drag and airflow will break up the oscillations.

If it's coming on at high speeds it can nearly always be broken smooth by chirping
the rear brake a time or two, and just backing off the gas. In a second the bike is
tracking dead straight.
Whether the cause is a loose or tight steering head,
low pressure in the front tire, or a front knobby,
a heavily packed rear end (weight biased rearwards),
rigid arms of fear,
the end result is the same with this type of wobble.
It can be killed very quickly. It can turn ugly quickly
also. This method prevents the front tire from using
energy from the rear as traction is lost and speed is dropping
8 mph in that same second. The front has to "drag" the rear
tire around as opposed to feeding off of it. The abrupt change
in forces stops the wobble cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
did u figure out the cause of the wobble?

i had a wobble last week, a really bad one. super serious... my bike was doing figure eights almost.. gladly i controlled it. lasted like 5 seconds... i was going like 80 85 with luggage in the back.

my theory was that i had too heavy load on the rear wheel and that caused the wobble on the front.

glad u made it ok.
Can't say I figured out the cause of the wobble for sure. Similar to you, I suspect it's mainly due to loading the bike too much toward the rear, plus the inclusion of the knobbies. I'm sure both were contributing factors, but I can't say for sure if either were the ultimate cause of the wobble.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
A tip on wobbles/pre-tank slappers.

The bike, like a shopping cart wheel, starts with a minute oscillation that
is unfelt but is at a frequency that will build on itself. Sometimes quite quickly.

There's a few good tips such as relax while backing off the throttle.

Spreading out the knees and elbows is very effective if it's a wind induced wobble.
The change in drag and airflow will break up the oscillations.

If it's coming on at high speeds it can nearly always be broken smooth by chirping
the rear brake a time or two, and just backing off the gas. In a second the bike is
tracking dead straight.
Whether the cause is a loose or tight steering head,
low pressure in the front tire, or a front knobby,
a heavily packed rear end (weight biased rearwards),
rigid arms of fear,
the end result is the same with this type of wobble.
It can be killed very quickly. It can turn ugly quickly
also. This method prevents the front tire from using
energy from the rear as traction is lost and speed is dropping
8 mph in that same second. The front has to "drag" the rear
tire around as opposed to feeding off of it. The abrupt change
in forces stops the wobble cold.
Thanks for the advice. For a couple of months after the accident, I did a bunch of research trying to figure out what went wrong and how to control it if it happens again in the future. As you can imagine, advice is all over the board. It seems that a lot depends on the cause of the wobble.

I've also watched many videos with people that have succeeded in riding out a wobble and people that weren't successful. I did try to ride out the wobble and just let the bike oscillate in hopes that I could get through the experience. However, I think the conditions and knobbies hurt me.

There was a fog and thin mist that morning, which meant the road was slightly moist. As the bike was wobbling worse and worse, the front end eventually washed out. When that happened, I went down. From all the videos I've watched, the successful recoveries occurred when the bike didn't lose traction.
 

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That makes perfect sense if the front wheel just kicked out
before a correction could be made with slick conditions.

The main thing is not getting badly hurt. Good!
 
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