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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As a new tire swapper, I thought the most difficult part would be getting the tires on and off.

Turns out that I seemed to have gotten that part right. However, I goofed up not one, but two other things:

1. The front brakes are soft. Very soft. I'm not sure I could lock them up, even. There's no pulsing so I don't think the rotor is warped. The brake pads appear to be in place. I also could have sprayed some tire lube on the rotor when changing the tires, but cleaning it didn't help. Rear brake is fine and I used the same tire removal procedure. The front brake reservoir is well above full. Maybe try removing some of the fluid?

2. I think that I have the speedo housing and gear lined up. Could it be that the cable isn't fully seated inside the housing? Also, it slid out of the rubber sleeve at one point. Could it be loose inside the speedometer? I've pushed it back up as far as I could. I've only driven it a few hundred yards to test things out. Hopefully I didn't do any internal damage.

Ideas on what to check?

This is probably old news to you seasoned owners. But it's becoming a frustrating experience for me.
 

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Read this ( I stole it from Norm)

"The drive plate in the speedometer hub needs to be correctly indexed into the tangs on the front wheel hub. If not, it will often chew the tangs off and ruin the front wheel. Expensive mistake."
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Read this ( I stole it from Norm)

"The drive plate in the speedometer hub needs to be correctly indexed into the tangs on the front wheel hub. If not, it will often chew the tangs off and ruin the front wheel. Expensive mistake."
I read that....after I put it back together. The hub appears to be in the correct position.

I will probably remove the front wheel tomorrow and double check, though.
 

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Don't ride it yet so as not to chew up said hub!!


Even tho you DID ride, it doesn't chew up the hub in the first few miles.

I'm hoping you noticed if the speedo drive went fully onto the hub. When the tangs don't line up there's
a gap and the wheel center guts have to be forced together. It's something you'd notice with a new
greasy 1/4" gap showing where there wasn't one before. That said, sounds like the cable needs
reseated. If you happen to have the wheel dropped again it's the time to slide the thing out and ensure
it didn't break if it was weak and ready to let go at the time of disassembly. Whenever I have the
fairing off and the cable is accessible from the top that's when I dump some fat oil (gear lube) down the housing and let it run right into the drive hub, which also gets a light repack anyway since I have the
thing off. Both square ends need to snuggle into place underthose lil' knurled knob-cap-screw-on-
thingies (end caps) for them to screw down fully. (the military mind in you might have had a lightbulb
moment. "something's off a hair", "this don't smell right", etc.)

If the cable and drive are still fine (and likely are), a careful reassembly will fix this in a flash.
I'm no engine guru like our esteemed go-to guys, but having wheels off multiple times per season I've
been thru this one literally dozens of times on this bike alone. Me believes your gonna be all good.

Something a few of us do, me especially is use this opportunity to straighten the cable. Turning the
drive hub backwards 1/8 turn, or downwards to the 9 o'clock position just below the protrusion the drive
is supposed to sit in. This leaves a long sweeping arc for the spinning cable to ride in rather than a
sharper bending S shape.

I'm really behind ya on this one just cause I like and respect you a bunch for being both military and
participating heavily on the site. (Got turned down at MEPS fer scoliosis, but offered up my life for the
Flag same as yourself)

CheapMark (and wannabe 80th Airborne like my dad-Korea-'50-'51)

Now put that shit together right, sailor(are submariners called sailors?). That's an order.

I, and many others salute you.

The brake line doesn't usually get air during this process. When it does, luckily the vertical
setup allows it to "burp" itself.
Worst case is a bleed which gets the crud out of the fluid
that settled down low anyhoo.
 

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Brakes?

Did you check if you got the brake pads gummed up with that lube? Try pad cleaner on both pads, and rotor.
If you had rotor coated, and used the brakes, you may have transferred some onto the pads.

Speedo: When I put my front tire back on after change, or balance, I spin the wheel to see if my speedo moves up a little, while it's still on the lift.
 
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Bent "wings" on the winged washer in the speedometer hub drive is a common cause of speedometer malfunction (Do not ask me how I know this!).

If the wings do not fit in their slots, bending is likely; if bent sufficiently, no drive from hub to speedometer.

Simple cure: Hammer and flat surface; then, correct orientation upon assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Yuppers. Bent wings on the tabbed washer. To add an additional complication, the "split" on the end of the speedo cable was mashed. I had to separate it slightly to get the cable fully seated.

The brakes are also better. Odd. All I did was remove and reinstall the wheel. I bled them a bit just to be sure.

Anyway, I worked my way up to 90mph indicated. No strange wobbles, hops, or wiggles. Not bad for my first tire swap and balance. Some headaches but, overall, I'll take it.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Lol, I bent the wings down when I did my first front tire install as well... Glad I'm not the only one :wink2:
 

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The good news is that you cough it and fixed it. Try soaking the brake pads in brake cleaner to clean them up.

While on a long trip and before I knew about this potential problem I had a new tire installed by a shop in Bozeman, MT. The kid they use to sweep the floor and do oil and tire changes apparently didn't know about it. The speedometer worked for several hundred miles and then quit. Since the cable seemed good, I bought a bicycle speedometer and continued on my trip.

When I finally got home I found the big drive washer bent and the hub completely ground down. I wanted to ride the 900 miles or so back to Montana and ask the shop owner for a new hub, but good sense kicked in and I let it go. A new Trail Tech electronic instrument was cheaper than a new hub, so I when with that.

Now, I never let an unknown person install a wheel or an oil drain plug.
 
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