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Discussion Starter #1
I was on a roll, trying not to spend my whole day doing a valve check, got the cover off, then the top valve inspection plug, but I can't get the bottom rotor plug off to turn the engine to TDC. I've tried removing the plug with my biggest screw driver, but if I go any harder, I'm just going to strip the plug ( it doesn't seem like a screw driver is the right tool for this job ) any suggestions?
 

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I made a tool for that. It's nothing more than a piece of flat stock with the end properly radiused to fit that plug. I ground a corner to fit the top plug.

What you need is a Gen 1 balancer lever; if you happen to have kept that it will work.

A large washer will work, too, though you might need two if you use fender washers.

What you don't want to have is any slop. The tool has to fit the plug pretty well.

Whatever you use, it needs to have a radius of about 7/8". A couple three fender washers that are 1 3/4" in diameter would do nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I made a tool for that. It's nothing more than a piece of flat stock with the end properly radiused to fit that plug. I ground a corner to fit the top plug.

What you need is a Gen 1 balancer lever; if you happen to have kept that it will work.

A large washer will work, too, though you might need two if you use fender washers.

What you don't want to have is any slop. The tool has to fit the plug pretty well.

Whatever you use, it needs to have a radius of about 7/8". A couple three fender washers that are 1 3/4" in diameter would do nicely.
Nice! I should have thought of that, I had some left over washers from my rear shock shim, popped it right off. Anything else I can look for regarding the cam chain tension while I'm in the top end? 99 KLR650 new to me, I'm guessing the doohickey was done, but have yet to find time to dig into the stator cover. I found some interesting marks on the cam lobes which I will post soon. Thank you
 

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The cam chain is automatically tensioned, so there should be no issues with it.

Unfortunately there's no way to know if the balancer chain tensioner has been worked on (doohickey) without popping the case. Unless, of course, the PO did it and put a sticker on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The cam chain is automatically tensioned, so there should be no issues with it.

Unfortunately there's no way to know if the balancer chain tensioner has been worked on (doohickey) without popping the case. Unless, of course, the PO did it and put a sticker on it.
I see.





The results are the exhaust valves are passing 0.10mm, failing 0.13mm, the intakes are also passing at 0.10mm, failing at 0.13mm. Do I need to have more accurate measurements? My feeler gauges had nothing in between 0.10mm-0.13mm. I'm about to watch a youTube video that might answer that question. Sadly, I haven't found a Tom valve job video! You are the superdoo right? I rebuilt my carb with your video, it was a really well done video.
 

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Yes, I'm Souperdoo, too. Always nice to hear people find some of the videos useful; thanks!

Well, lessssehere... Let's speak English for a second.

The intake spec is .004"-.008". That's .1-.2mm.
The exhaust spec is .006"-.010". That's .15-.25mm.

Yours, in both cases, are not passing a .13mm feeler. That means they are tighter than .005" but looser than .004".

I think that you don't need better precision. You've got .03mm, which is .0012". That's fine enough!

What you do want to do, though, is reset your valve lash because it is too tight. You're at the ragged edge on the intake, but under spec on the exhaust. And you want to set the lash to the high side, so .2mm on the intake and .25mm on the exhaust.

I'd say (not knowing exactly what your clearances are on both intakes and both exhausts), that you'd be looking at reducing the shim sizes by two on the intake and by three shim sizes on the exhaust. Of course, you need to calculate that exactly for each valve. If a shim size would put me just over the high limit of lash, I'd do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, I'm Souperdoo, too. Always nice to hear people find some of the videos useful; thanks!

Well, lessssehere... Let's speak English for a second.

The intake spec is .004"-.008". That's .1-.2mm.
The exhaust spec is .006"-.010". That's .15-.25mm.

Yours, in both cases, are not passing a .13mm feeler. That means they are tighter than .005" but looser than .004".

I think that you don't need better precision. You've got .03mm, which is .0012". That's fine enough!

What you do want to do, though, is reset your valve lash because it is too tight. You're at the ragged edge on the intake, but under spec on the exhaust. And you want to set the lash to the high side, so .2mm on the intake and .25mm on the exhaust.

I'd say (not knowing exactly what your clearances are on both intakes and both exhausts), that you'd be looking at reducing the shim sizes by two on the intake and by three shim sizes on the exhaust. Of course, you need to calculate that exactly for each valve. If a shim size would put me just over the high limit of lash, I'd do it.

I think you are spot on here. The worst that could happen is that it's actually passing a 0.12mm in which case your recommended shims will over shoot to 0.27mm exhaust, 0.22mm intake. On the other hand if I tried to stay below 0.25mm and 0.20mm by going two steps exhaust and one step intake, and assuming 0.10mm was the actual limit, I'd end up with a 0.20mm exhaust and a 0.17 mm intake, which would be fine but not taking full advantage of the situation.

I guess 0.00078 inches(0.02mm) over on either end isn't going to cause some catastrophe?
 

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Loose valves will stay happy valves. They will come within spec, in time, and stay in spec for a very long time.

Eight ten thousandths of an inch won't hurt a thing...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Darn, one of the shims cam out with no measurement label. I guess i'll need to find a micrometer. It seems like who ever did this job last might not have been totally competent. The intake cam looked like it was off a tooth, not level with the case at TDC, plus all the camshaft cap bolts, and timing chain cover bolts were suuuuper overtorqued, I had to put some serious strength to break them loose. I took pictures, note sure when ill have time to post. 3/4 shims measured 265 260 255.
 

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If you note the measurement of the lash for the 255 shim, then replace it with the unmarked shim, you can figure out the thickness of the unmarked shim. Subtract the difference of the two lash values (unk-lash minus 255-lash) from 2.55mm.

Ergo, thusly, and hold my beer: if the lash on the 255 is .1mm and the lash on the unknown shim is .2 mm, then 2.55 - .1 = 2.45, so it is a 245 shim.

Conversely, if the lash on the 255 is .1 and the lash on the unknown is .05, then 2.55 - (-.5) = 2.6, so it is a 260.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you note the measurement of the lash for the 255 shim, then replace it with the unmarked shim, you can figure out the thickness of the unmarked shim. Subtract the difference of the two lash values (unk-lash minus 255-lash) from 2.55mm.

Ergo, thusly, and hold my beer: if the lash on the 255 is .1mm and the lash on the unknown shim is .2 mm, then 2.55 - .1 = 2.45, so it is a 245 shim.

Conversely, if the lash on the 255 is .1 and the lash on the unknown is .05, then 2.55 - (-.5) = 2.6, so it is a 260.
nice good idea! if I didn't have access to good micrometer I'd do this, however, my bikes parked on the street and all bundled up now. It be more trouble to unwrap it. My school should have some tools somewhere, I'll find out tmw.
 

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I made a tool for that. It's nothing more than a piece of flat stock with the end properly radiused to fit that plug. I ground a corner to fit the top plug.

What you need is a Gen 1 balancer lever; if you happen to have kept that it will work.

A large washer will work, too, though you might need two if you use fender washers.

What you don't want to have is any slop. The tool has to fit the plug pretty well.

Whatever you use, it needs to have a radius of about 7/8". A couple three fender washers that are 1 3/4" in diameter would do nicely.
I use the flat stamped box-end Gen2 rear axle nut wrench. It has a diameter of about 1-5/8" and is always in my road kit on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just waiting on parts in the mail now. Does anyone put any type of sealant on the valve cover? I'm assuming the chain tensioner just gets the standard yamabond
 

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Just waiting on parts in the mail now. Does anyone put any type of sealant on the valve cover? I'm assuming the chain tensioner just gets the standard yamabond
The rubber gasket for the valve cover does not require a sealant. I typically put some waterproof grease in it to help hold it in place while installing the cover. I also use waterproof grease on the cam chain tensioner to make it easier to clean the surface and reuse the gasket the next time.
 
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