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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok heres the story. I bought this 2011 klr650 with no history from an auction. cleaned it up and it started fine but as it warmed up it would cut out at anything below about 1500 rpm. you can hold the throttle in one position and it will cut off and rev back up. very intermittent and not consistent. no popping or sputtering just wont hold rmp with drastic swings. I have cleaned carb about 14 times. I have put whole new carb kit in it. I did the 685 with mike hoping it was the compression loss but no change. I know everyone will say carb but there is no cleaning left to do. another factor could be the instrument panel was smashed and gone and i wonder if im getting some electrical confusion from that. stater looks perfect. My next idea is an upgraded carb.
 

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Not saying this will solve anything, but modern gas is crap. sea foam has made me a believer. also might pay to get the old gas out and put it in the wifes car or the mower gas. find decent non oxygenated premium and add sea foam 1 -2 oz per gallon. and no I do not sell it or am I affiliated with it in any way. stuff seems to work good. L6
 

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2002 gen 1 street-ized commuter special
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i think your carb is not clean read the "care and feeding of the CVK40" tutorial on these pages somewhere. pinned sources at the beginning of each year threads. it is very easy to overlook the small passages that must flow air for proper carb function
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i think your carb is not clean read the "care and feeding of the CVK40" tutorial on these pages somewhere. pinned sources at the beginning of each year threads. it is very easy to overlook the small passages that must flow air for proper carb function
Thankyou i just bought a tv to install over my workbench for the video walkthrough. ill give it one more go
 

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KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Patience, Grasshopper...

Since it won't run below 1500 RPM, you almost certainly have a blockage in the pilot circuit. Get some fine wire like a guitar string to get deep into the passages, don't forget the air jets and their passages too. Every passage should pass fluid to somewhere in the carb when you spray carb cleaner through the straw into the holes.

And, there is no such thing as an "upgraded carb." The CVK is excellent, just get it working correctly.
 

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Crash damage could have the main wire harness pinched & chaffed between coolant reservoir bracket & the forward seam of the fuel tank? Or pinched & chaffed on the fairing/instrument bracket? Or a loose fitting primary wire spade terminal on the ignition coil?

Engine vibration could cause intermittent contact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It currently does not have instrument cluster. Could it be getting some bad feed back from that. It was gone when I bought it. Crash was basically headlight and handle bars. No impact below that.
 

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Check your wires in this area,

More,

I went up through page 6 here. You can look for more.
 

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KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Look carefully at what PDW posted, and let us know what you find.

However, electrical problems typically work, or don't work, or alternate between working and not working (the dreaded "electrical intermittent"), There is very little electrical that will cause it to run above 1500 RPM, but poorly or not at all below that. The ignition box and coil can do that, but you already replaced those, so let's rule those out conditionally.
 

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The ignition box and coil can do that, but you already replaced those, so let's rule those out conditionally.
Where/when did he say that? I can't find that statement.

Are the small terminals tight on the ignition coil? Is the spark plug cap securely screwed into the coil wire? Does the spark plug cap get a secure grip on the spark plug terminal?
 

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KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Sorry, that was another guy who did that. Too many guys with the same symptoms...

Anyway, a bad coil can do that. See if you can beg or borrow another coil and swap it.

By the way, the Gen1 coil into a Gen2 cols are supposedly different, but they measure electrically pretty close. I've swapped a Gen1 coil into a Gen 2 bike, and it worked, and vice versa. So a coil of either generation should work for troubleshooting.
 
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