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Discussion Starter #1
I work nights and am the machining lead at work. I lock the doors and turn off the lights at our plant and am the last to leave. I park my bike in a training room that really no one has access to. I give myself this "perk" due to I don't care to lock up and walk out into bfe after my shift. Last night I was getting onto the KLR. I don't know about you guys but I don't wiggle myself on to my bikes. For as long as I can remember I place my left foot on the left peg, raise my body up and swing my leg high over all rear luggage, etc... I get off the same way, left foot on left peg, raise up, and off the left side. This morning I went to put my foot on the left peg but it gave way and fell off. The bolts had either come loose all the way to just one or two threads in or had been tampered with!

Now I can take a joke as well as anyone BUT this is pretty dangerous IMO. I could not put the bolts back in because due to being on or two threads in had stripped out the bolt because of my weight and had stripped out the mounting point on the frame. Besides that my center stand was also flopping down. Without repair shifting would be difficult at best and the center stand might catch on something, like the freakin chain!!

For quite a while I was extremely pissed but I just could not say for certain that it was sabotage. It certainly appeared to be but???? I know for certain that when I installed the center stand that I used the supplied bolts, which I thought to be too short, and used blue lock tight. I'm a machinists so an issue such as this is a non issue. For anyone else without the tools and no how would be about as bad as a flat tire. If it is sabotage I can do nothing as due to the new parking policy I was a violator. I'm a lead at work and I will probably resign my lead if my "perk" is removed. I won't turn lights out, I won't lock the doors or gate. I won't continue to be the senior technical resource. Maybe that is infantile or adolescent attitude but I just feel I should have some privilege for being the last one out and securing the plant.

So I get some tools. One .295 drill bit, a m8 form tap, tap handle, cordless drill, a bit of oil, and some loctite. I gently drill into the mount holes to make sure the hole is too size and a bit deeper. Done, I use a m8 form tap and actually get another 1/4" more of thread. I find an appropriate length SHCS that just bottoms out. Put a washer on SHCS, loctite, and tighten away. Now the left side is done so I decide to do the same to the right. Bolts are loose! Repeat process on right side. Is there anything else loose? Handle bars? Triple clamp? Who knows??

So was it sabotage? I may never know. I'm not going to say anything at work to see what rumors and possible snickers are out there. If sabotage do I take action or just let it lay out? I am of the attitude that you NEVER touch another mans ride or it would be the same as violating the same mans wife. A death sentence seems most appropriate! LOL JK! I am pissed though.

So in all if it was sabotage it was actually a blessing in disguise. After trying to thread the peg bolts in and seeing again how short they were I was glad to give myself more security and stability with longer, just as sturdy bolts. I really hate to think that one of my coworkers would do this and if so I will have to decide how to approach such a sensitive subject as violating my ride and endangering my safety or life.
 

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I really doubt it was sabotage.

a) foot peg bolts coming loose on the KLR is a very common occurrence. They need to be clean, properly torqued, Loc-Tited, and checked as a part of every oil change. Doesn't much matter if you are an accountant, machinist, rocket scientist or Indian chief. They come loose. People don't believe that, but it keeps being true.

b) a center stand on the KLR is a bad idea because of the above. The center stand mount makes the above worse because the pegs are spaced out from where they should be, providing a longer lever to work at the threads. Plus, the center stands often don't fit for beans because the mounting plates aren't flat and the provided bolts are neither the right length (it sounds like the ones you were given were too short, so there was less thread engagement than possible. Usually you want a diameter and a half of thread engagement) nor a very high grade. If you have a small fishing skiff you might want to re-purpose the center stand as an anchor.

c) a typical saboteur would do something a lot easier, less dangerous, and funnier. Like shoe polish on your seat, Styrofoam packing peanuts in your muffler, flipping your kill switch, etc.

Tom
 

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I really doubt it was sabotage.

a) foot peg bolts coming loose on the KLR is a very common occurrence. They need to be clean, properly torqued, Loc-Tited, and checked as a part of every oil change. Doesn't much matter if you are an accountant, machinist, rocket scientist or Indian chief. They come loose. People don't believe that, but it keeps being true.

b) a center stand on the KLR is a bad idea because of the above. The center stand mount makes the above worse because the pegs are spaced out from where they should be, providing a longer lever to work at the threads. Plus, the center stands often don't fit for beans because the mounting plates aren't flat and the provided bolts are neither the right length (it sounds like the ones you were given were too short, so there was less thread engagement than possible. Usually you want a diameter and a half of thread engagement) nor a very high grade. If you have a small fishing skiff you might want to re-purpose the center stand as an anchor.

c) a typical saboteur would do something a lot easier, less dangerous, and funnier. Like shoe polish on your seat, Styrofoam packing peanuts in your muffler, flipping your kill switch, etc.

Tom
Sounds a lot more realistic...
I didn't know that about center stands, my bike came with it, until about a month ago I thought they were OE... LOL. I will be checking that out real good tomorrow, thank you!
 

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I agree with Tom. A saboteur would flatten the tires. I would grease the handgrips on the underside and turn off the gas petcock. I might ever make the seat disappear or disconnect the spark plug wire. Applying extra weights to the rear wheel might be a little excessive but for sure I would never, ever loosen handle bars or foot pegs. I might TAKE a foot peg but I wouldn't just LOOSEN it!!

Years ago a young lad I worked with did a small prank on my car. I put a stop to that forever with one question. "I can take YOUR car apart down to the last nut and bolt. Can YOU put it back together?" Never had another prank done to one of my vehicles!

I really think it was not sabotage. Fix it up and keep an eye on it. You know the saying....If it has tits or tires it will give you trouble!!
Best Regards....justjeff
 

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I agree. Someone wants to **** with you, they open the oil fill or flip the kill switch or dump the air - vibration is your saboteur.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looking at the peg mounts it appeared to me that the front could be drilled through, bolted through, and either a lock nut on the inside of the frame or a nylock nut. Safety wire could also be used which seems would involve drilling a hole between the two peg mounting holes and probably through the frame.

Thoughts?
 

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You could safety wire from one bolthead to the other. I don't have a center stand and have never had them loosen on either KLR I own.
JJ
 

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Yes. It can be just through the corners or edges closest to each other when torqued up. It doesn't have to go right through the width of the bolt head.
I really think it is overkill though.

JJ
 

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I've never thought of somebody messing with my bike to hurt me... Very scary.
My dad always taught me "NEVER MESS WITH A MANS WOMAN OR HIS WHEELS"
 

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I am skeptical of the future of those peg bolts. Several have reported stripped captive nuts for the bolts. It seems the nuts are fairly thin with few threads and strip out fairly easily. This is especially true when the pegs are further offset by center stand mounts. Your extra 1/4" of tapped depth may have been in air.

In your case some of the original threads are now stripped. One solution which sounds good to me is to cut the existing nuts out with a hole saw. Weld some high grade thick nuts to a small plate the size of the mount face. Weld the plate to the face of the mount.

I personally don't like the idea of drilling through the frame. It doesn't seem over designed to me and I wouldn't want to weaken it. I have managed to crack both sides of the frame luggage rack mounting loop where the lower and upper subframe tubes are joined. Welded in some gussets and all is well.
 

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Looking at the peg mounts it appeared to me that the front could be drilled through, bolted through, and either a lock nut on the inside of the frame or a nylock nut. Safety wire could also be used which seems would involve drilling a hole between the two peg mounting holes and probably through the frame.

Thoughts?
frostbite,
If one were to "drill thru the frame" in the manner you just suggested, the frame will Break!

This past winter I used a 10 mm (8mm is standard size) shouldered engine mount Nut, counter-bored flush into the footrest mounting box and TIG welded by the professional welder just across the street from our shop.
The welder really liked the simplicity of my idea.
 

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Ditto on what Tom, Paul and GoMotor have said;

- it wasn't sabotage and is very common on a KLR....especially one with a centerstand

- I hate centerstands in general due to the increased weight and reduced ground clearance but on a KLR which uses the already sketchy footpeg bolts they are better left off IMO.

- Proper fix for the footpeg bolts is to cut open the mounting box with a zip blade, bend it open, grind off the original nuts and weld on some larger ones with more threads. Another easy way is to use a hole saw and cut out the nuts and then just weld on a plate with the new nuts attached.


Dave
 

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Good thing it showed up at work, Tom. It might have been nasty under other circumstances, but glad you are OK.

I agree with David that this is a common problem for center stands and one of the reasons I'm not a fan. I'd also think that, because of the soft materials and poor alignment, safety wiring might not be that useful since it would make retightening more difficult and so less often checked. If the bolts loosen by turning, then safety wire will be useful, but if the loosen because of yielding of the clamping distance, then safety wire may simply hide the problem.


One point which is clear from this is, IMO, if you can be taken by surprise by something like this, no one is immune.
 

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- Proper fix for the footpeg bolts is to cut open the mounting box with a zip blade, bend it open, grind off the original nuts and weld on some larger ones with more threads. Another easy way is to use a hole saw and cut out the nuts and then just weld on a plate with the new nuts attached.


Dave
That is a whole lot more 'work' than I or my favorite welder found necessary, Dave.

By using a drill bit to counterbore into the mounting box, into which the 'Flanged Nut' was recessed 'Flushly' into the mounting box, the hole spacing, width and level could be maintained. The large diameter of the counterbore bit allowed the remains of the standard square nut to be removed thru the counter bore hole.
And yes I am referring to a 10 mm 'Flanged Nut', like the Larger engine mount bolts.

The welder suggested that the weld penetration was as good as if not better than welding nuts onto the 'back-side' of a replacement plate.

A pass with the surface grinder and chase the nut threads with a tap and maybe a little paint to prevent rusting. Sorry that I still don't do pics.
 

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.............
This past winter I used a 10 mm (8mm is standard size) shouldered engine mount Nut, counter-bored flush into the footrest mounting box and TIG welded by the professional welder just across the street from our shop.
The welder really liked the simplicity of my idea.
I like this better than cutting the box open. Might even use some extra long sacrificial bolts to hole the shoulder nuts in perfect alignment for tack welding. The shoulders offer more welding surface for a stronger weld.
 

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That is a whole lot more 'work' than I or my favorite welder found necessary, Dave.

By using a drill bit to counterbore into the mounting box, into which the 'Flanged Nut' was recessed 'Flushly' into the mounting box, the hole spacing, width and level could be maintained. The large diameter of the counterbore bit allowed the remains of the standard square nut to be removed thru the counter bore hole.
And yes I am referring to a 10 mm 'Flanged Nut', like the Larger engine mount bolts.

The welder suggested that the weld penetration was as good as if not better than welding nuts onto the 'back-side' of a replacement plate.

A pass with the surface grinder and chase the nut threads with a tap and maybe a little paint to prevent rusting. Sorry that I still don't do pics.
Paul,

If you have pictures of this, could you mail them to me?

I'd like to see them and post them up here.

Tom
 

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That is a whole lot more 'work' than I or my favorite welder found necessary, Dave.

By using a drill bit to counterbore into the mounting box, into which the 'Flanged Nut' was recessed 'Flushly' into the mounting box, the hole spacing, width and level could be maintained. The large diameter of the counterbore bit allowed the remains of the standard square nut to be removed thru the counter bore hole.
And yes I am referring to a 10 mm 'Flanged Nut', like the Larger engine mount bolts.

The welder suggested that the weld penetration was as good as if not better than welding nuts onto the 'back-side' of a replacement plate.

A pass with the surface grinder and chase the nut threads with a tap and maybe a little paint to prevent rusting. Sorry that I still don't do pics.
Hey Paul, That sounds like a great solution. Did you guys leave bolts in the nuts while welding to make sure the nuts were straight and to hold them in place whilst tacking?

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Dave,

What I am picturing in my split-level head is that (and I'll throw out some numbers for illustration) Paul counter-bored the foot peg boss with a 25mm drill (approximate; the flange diameter should be 22.3mm). That made a hole that allowed him to completely embed the head of a 10mm flanged bolt into the boss.

In the counter-boring process the stripped nuts were completely removed from the boss.

He then TIG welded the perimeter of the bolt flange into the outer face of the foot peg boss. That left a 10mm stud sticking out of the peg bolt boss. I'm not sure how he maintained alignment and I'm hoping he took pictures.

It seems to be a remarkably better solution than anything anyone else has done (typical Paul...).

If I ever strip my peg nuts this is how I will fix it.

Tom
 
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