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Guys, I have a 2009 that I want to do the 22 cent mod to. I've looked and found articles how to do it, but none that are step by step for a guy who hasn't messed with a carb before. I really don't want to screw it up. Is there a step by step instruction with pictures for dummies that I have missed? Also, I've got a Lexx pipe on order and it came with a K&N filter. I also ordered those little foam filters from Uni to put in the airbox. Thanks
 

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Run the stock filter, pull the snorkle from the left side of the seat. You can do the .22 mod with the carb still on the bike. Just loosen the clamps in the front of the carb and behind it and rotate the top toward you so you have access. If you've never done it, it will be intimidating. Watch some vids on utube. The bottom plug can be drilled out while still on the bike as well, you just have to rotate the bottom out.
 

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There's probably a video on the 22-cent mod up on the 'Net; Google it!

Other KLR websites may have detailed procedures . . . hey, what about THIS ONE?

Ain't the 22-cent mod in the 'Popular Mods" thread?

(Same for both generations.)
 

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Hey guys would you recommend this mod for a new bike? ( under warranty)..? Does it really open it up enough to tell? And what exactly does removing the snorkel do?


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Some 22-cent mod pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157626115057601/

IMHO, the 22-cent mod's worth doing; adjusting the fuel screw fuel-enriches the idle circuit, shimming the needle fuel-enriches mid-range operation, and drilling the slide improves throttle response.

As to removing the snorkle, ain't been there--imagine the object's creating lower-restriction intake air path . . .
 

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Attention MODERATORS:

Ain't the 22-cent mod in the"How To's & Tech Guides" Forum?

Should be, IMHO; couldn't find it.

Common mods and issues thread here.

To the OP - disconnect the choke cable from the carb before you turn it. The plastic fitting will break if you don't.
 

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Common mods and issues thread here.
Yes, in the "1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods" forum. However, the 22-cent mod transcends the generations; applicable to both Generations 1 and 2.

The OP has a Generation 2 KLR; of no consequence, regarding the 22-cent mod, although the dating in the forum title may have caused him to overlook the information.
 

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IMHO the K/N filter doesn't flow as good as the stock filter and it is agreed that the Uni filter is the best filter to have in your KLR. The K/N is worse than the stock one so unfortuneately I would sell it to someone who doesn't know this...sorry.
Yes the 22 cent mod is worth doing, but while in there drill the slider to 7/64" to allow the slider to move quicker during it's range. IMHO, I would spend the money and buy a KLX needle kit from Eagle Mike and do it right first time around. The needle is adjustable and has a much better taper to it. The kit also comes with new stainless steel bolts for the top and bottom of the carb. I would also drill out the pilot jet screw and set it to 2 turns out from seated as a starting point for the best setting for your bike.
Before you undo the intake and airbox boot clamps, loosen the choke plastic clamp that the choke cable attaches to the carb with, it takes a 12mm wrench IIRC and is a pain in the arse to undo. You need to remove this from the carb BEFORE rotating the carb or you WILL break it's plastic locking fingers that holds the cable firmly into the carb. It is very easy to break these clamp fingers. Some people just pull the cable out and let it hang but it is still easy to break the clamp fingers. Once broken the choke won't seat against the carb firmly.
The rest of the how to should show you the rest.:13:
 

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Yes, in the "1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods" forum. However, the 22-cent mod transcends the generations; applicable to both Generations 1 and 2.

The OP has a Generation 2 KLR; of no consequence, regarding the 22-cent mod, although the dating in the forum title may have caused him to overlook the information.
The 'Common Mods and Issues' thread covers Engine, Chassis/Suspension, Frame, and Electrical.

Many of the items are applicable to both generations. For that reason, there is an exact copy of the thread in both the '2008 +' and the '1987 - 2007' sub-forums.

The 22 cent mod, the KLX needle, the L-Mod, and the broken choke nut are all covered under 'Engine'. I believe the Snorkel is covered in the discussion of the needle mods and perhaps the L-Mod.

T
 

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Attention MODERATORS:

Ain't the 22-cent mod in the"How To's & Tech Guides" Forum?

Should be, IMHO; couldn't find it.
Worthy 'how to' threads that were already in the 'How To' sub-forum were stickied in that sub forum.

There was a distinction between 'mods' and 'how tos' in the mind of the loose cannon that did the stickying.

Generally, it had to be already in the sub-forum and not already a part of the 'Common Mods and Issues' thread, and had to be more in the vein of 'how to', as in 'how to do a wheelie' or 'how to change a tire'. There is some cross-over, most notably Zin's JD kit installation and Aron31's shock spring install.

Generally, the 'How To' section is more maintenance oriented.

T
 

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Yes the tank must come off....a simple operation just loosen all the fairing side covers to allow them to flex outward away from tank as it makes it easier to remove tank. Side covers also and seat. The carb fuel lines as well there are two, one for vacuum and the larger for fuel. Don't loose the tank donuts that sit on the frame.:13:
 

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I highly recommend the Eagle Mike KLX nnedle kit as it contains a few extra jets, the needle clip and collar, and also he throws in new stainless steel bolts to attach the top and botton on with to replace the crap that it comes with stock.:13:
 

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Am I understanding this correctly that you gotta turn the mixture screw all the way in first before turning it out 2 and whatever turns?
 

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Ecip - Yes. So you know where you are. Sounds like quite a few are different turns out from the factory.

If I paid $80 for the mods (ie a new jet kit for other bikes) I wouldn't be happy with the results. I've done that on other bikes. But since the mods are so cheap it made me a happier owner.

.22 mod, frugle exhaust mod, and desnorkle help the bike out quite abit.

I don't recall if I removed the tank or not. I'd remember if I was looking at my bike/carb though. I know I didn't loosen the choke cable. I kept a very close eye on it and made sure I wasn't pulling it or jamming it into anything.
 

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does the tank have to come off?
Left tank in place, IIRC. Rotated carb for clearance, removing slide assembly after removing mixing chamber cap.

Choke cable's enigmatic, as mentioned above--didn't unscrew the plastic cap from the carb, but that's pushing things--lots of stress accrues to the cap when the carb is rotated, could easily break plastic cap. Maybe some slack can be adjusted in the choke cable beforehand.

Why NOT unscrew choke cable cap? I find spearing the threads and re-connecting difficult in the confined space. A 12 mm open-end wrench, with the head bent at about 90-degrees, would be a useful tool for loosening and for tightening the choke cable cap.

If you dare perform the 22-cent mod, MIND THE DIAPHRAGM SEALING! Kinda challenging, getting the diaphragm to stay in its appointed groove while buttoning up the carb, some use non-deteriorating grease to hold the part in place while the mixing chamber cap machine screws are cinched down.

You MUST have an air-tight diaphragm seal for the carb to work properly.

If this strff intimidates you, and you have no knowledgeable partner to help, the stock setup ain't all that bad. I'm a believer in the benfits of the 22-cent mod, but--executing it depends upon your tolerance level for stress, if you're entering the unknown territory of carb innards for the first time.

The primer available from this link explains the KLR carburetor's operation, giving you some idea of what you're doing and why, if you decide to chance it:

http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm

Good luck!
 
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