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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
This is my first KLR and I am getting right into the thick of it.
The KLR shows 7700 miles and looks really decent. I bought it knowing it needed a timing chain tensioner and had planned on simply replacing it, finished...
But as things all to often do, one of the tensioner bolts broke off and I did the other thing that happens and broke off a tap. So needless to say I am now going to pull the top end off and clean out the broken bits and get it welded.
I do have a question about balancer sprockets, I understand that it is best to replace mine with later model sprockets. Could someone point me in the correct direction as to what model year sprockets I should be looking for?
I would also be interested in hearing any advice about mods that'd benifit this first model year bike.
I am looking forward to getting it finished and riding it a lot.

Thanks in advance,
Reggie
 

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Welcome to the forum, Blue316.

Why do you or the previous owner think that a 7700 mile motor would Need the Camshaft Timing chain Tensioner replaced?
 

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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Welcome to the forum, Blue316.

Why do you or the previous owner think that a 7700 mile motor would Need the Camshaft Timing chain Tensioner replaced?
The last owner just knew that there was a rattle that he wasn't sure about. Before I made the drive to see it I did some research and decided that it was either the doohickey or the cam chain tensioner.
After seeing it and kicking it to life I heard the rattle the owner was concerned about. The noise was very slight but it was there and could be either.
So I felt like his $800 asking price was reasonable and bought it.
After getting it home I just decided that I would start with the tensioner. The upper bolt cameout without a problem but the lower one was clearly frozen and did break off in the cylinder. So I went ahead and ordered everything I could possibly need including the EM Doohickey.
I just remembered that when bolts were gone and the tensioner was fully extended it had less than a 1/16 of an inch between the cylinder and the tensioner body.
I am now trying to find anything else I should do while inside the motor. I read somewhere that there are oil passages that should be drilled to increase oil flow.
 

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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would love to see a picture of your bike. The 600s look so cool.
I will figure out how to post pictures when I get back in town in a couple of weeks.
 

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A mere 1/16th inch of remaining cam chain tensioner travel on a 7700 mile engine might suggest that the engine has a cam chain guide Missing or broken.

The 3 oil pipe banjo bolts can be either replaced with KLX650 banjo bolts or drilled to 1/8th inch holes. Part of the PDW oil flow mods.
Its not really a 'should be' mod, but it is an improvement that can be easily done. Kawasaki did it on the 1993 & up KLX250's, 300's & 650's, but never did it on the KLR's.
 

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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you pdwestman, It might actually be that the bolt breaking was doing me a little favor as it made me plan for most of the possible problems. Not that I thought about guides needing to be replaced. But that won't delay things much if I need to order those bits.
 

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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Here are pictures from the Craigslist posting...
I will post more when I am home and before I tear into the engine.
It is very clean and at least appears to have been taken good care of.

Land vehicle Motorcycle Vehicle Car Supermoto
Vehicle Motorcycle Trail Enduro Supermoto
 

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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A little update on my KLR 600 mess...
Well that is what it feels like. A mess...
I don't think I have read about anything like this. I was fully aware that I was buying a 36 year old motorcycle, but it is hard at times not to feel like the PO had some knowledge of what was wrong. But then I have to remind myself that I knew that this might be a challenge, that there might be more under the surface than just a bad cam chain tensioner. And it would appear that I misdiagnosed the rattle, while there was very little tension on the cam chain the noise was coming from the balancer chain.
After removing the side cover I noticed the spring was missing, no sign of it. Another bad sign was the metal fragments on crank position sensor along with a slight metallic residue.
When I got the rotor off I could see that there was something else wrong, the lower bolt in the lower balancer chain guide was missing and the guide was hanging down. And the mounting point mangled. Even the upper bolt was barely snug.
The missing bolt was trapped under the chain and as you can see in the pictures has been there for a long time. It had stayed in its place long enough to destroy 75% of the threads.

So, the main tasks ahead are:
Get the bolt hole in the cylinder welded, drilled and rethreaded
Remove the clutch cover and look for the spring
Buy a Time Sert kit and repair the balancer guide mounting lug

Then barring any other hidden damage it's just a matter of reassembly of the whole thing.
I did find a used guide on ebay that is in far better condition than the current one.

I am trying not get too bummed by all of the snags and extra expense, and I remind myself that I will have a decent old bike when finished. And I will get many miles of enjoyment out of it.
Auto part Engine Gear Brake Disc brake


Auto part Tool accessory Engine Machine Wheel
 

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2014.5 KLR650
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Well ... you did buy a pretty, running bike for $800.
You sound sensible and capable. You’re gonna come out of it with a great bike that you know and trust ... and you’re still not going to be in too deep.
 

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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well ... you did buy a pretty, running bike for $800.
You sound sensible and capable. You’re gonna come out of it with a great bike that you know and trust ... and you’re still not going to be in too deep.
Hey Rat,

Thank you for your kind words...
 

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Have you ever wondered, just how many $800 Ford Mustangs have been resurrected to the tune of $38,000 dollars, only to be sold for $30,000 or less on the auction block?

I truely hope that you Ride It Enough to get your moneys worth out of it. I would!!
 
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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I do think I will ride it enough to get my monies worth out of it. I don't know how soon I will see the end of the issues with this thing. The most recent problem is that the forward balancer shaft has really brittle splines where the snap ring sits that retains the sprocket and weight. They just chipped off when I was taking off the snap ring. The snap ring pliers slipped as they sometimes do and I heard the little teeth scatter about.
I was able to find a NOS shaft on ebay coming from Bulgaria.

Auto part Wheel Engine Automotive engine part Gear
 

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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Project update:
Well, things are coming together, at least I have all of the parts needed as far as I can tell, and all of the major problems are repaired or replacements have been found.
The bolt hole in the cylinder was welded, drilled and rethreaded.
I removed the clutch cover and and found the spring
I bought a Time Sert kit and repaired the balancer guide mounting lug
The NOS front balancer shaft showed up from Bulgaria in record time
Now its just a matter of having the time to start the reassembly....
And I want to extend a special thank you to Al Books Custom Welding in Burien Washington. Al did a great job welding and threading the cylinder and the cost was very reasonable. The flat black non satin paint is the only way to tell anything ever happened. More than a repair, Al really restored the cylinder.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Thanks for the recommendation of Al Brooks in Burien. Although that’s 100 miles from me, if I need some custom welding and can’t get it locally, I can find several other reasons to drive up there.
 

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1984 KLR600 A1, 1977 Yamaha TT500 Street licensed, 1988 BMW K75S,
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Another update...

After what seems like forever I have actually gotten the beast running. And when running I am very pleased with its power and how nicely it runs. But it is so, so hard to start that I am a little frustrated. There are a few indications that it has always been a PITA to start:
1, The side stand was completely destroyed from being stood on, it is aluminum
2, The kick starter destroyed, also from being stood on
3, The carburetor has been apart
4, There is damage to the right foot peg from the kick starter hitting it
Earlier I stated that it has 7700mi on it, but it actually has 7007mi. That low mileage itself maybe an indication as well.
I pulled the carburetor off and did find the pilot jet plugged, I then thought hooray I found the problem, but no, I got it all back together and still no easy start not a lick of difference. So now I’m thinking about where to look next and I have been thinking of disabling the KACR? If anyone has experience with either removing just the spring or the entire thing I am interested in hearing about it, or any thoughts on the subject of anything related to hard starting or KACR. I know that checking compression would make sense and I will if I can get ahold of a tester to fit the little plug hole.
But it runs so well, and sounds so good when running that I feel it makes sense to pull the valve cover and disable the KACR.
 

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Standard compression in the OEM KLR600 service manual is for a 'De-Activated' KACR. 134 - 185 psi.

First check the compression AS IS. Probably very similar to KLR650 with an Active KACR. 77 -124 psi.

Next, remove the center bolt & spring from the cam chain Tensioner BEFORE removing the valve cover.

Check & Record all valve tappet clearances. You need to have all valves in the UPPER 1/3rd of specs. Minimum clearance or worse yet Below Specs reduces maximum compression (with or with-out a kacr). Especially on the RH Exhaust valve, where the KACR operates. Adjust valve clearances as needed. Re-test compression with fully active KACR.

A piece of 1/4" fuel hose slipped behind the KACR Spring can 'De-Activate' the KACR for additional testing. But a true 'Leak-Down' test is better.

A Kawasaki Z1 / KZ900 / KZ1000 kickpedal, which is Tougher Built fits KLR650. Will probably fit KLR600 also.

Here is how to de-activate the KACR for a Maximum cold cranking compression test on a KLR650.

Many of the 1984 KLR600 CDI units didn't spark well at too low of cranking speeds. And it takes a certain technique to find the 'sweet-spot' of engine cycle to get enough momentum to spin-it thru.
Tom Schmitz, aka Souperdoo learned the technique. Maybe he can coach you?
 
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