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Secondary air injection delete tutorial

242 Views 0 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  Reveille
Here is a quick tutorial on how to remove the secondary air injection system to reduce the decel popping.
Some disclaimers to start>
- this procedure is best suited for those mechanically inclined folks who already removed the airbox snorkel, installed a Uni air filter and replaced the boat anchor muffler with something free flowing. I used a Leo Vince but you decide what fits your needs.
-If you are keeping the 14lb OEM muffler, this mod may eventually lead to carbon build up in the catalytic converter inside the OEM muffler.

OK, now on to the procedure -
- Parts needed are 3 rubber vacuum caps, some ziptys and Eagle Mikes air injection block off plug. https://eaglemike.com/Air-injection-blockoff-kit-AIS.htm

  • Remove the front cowlings, seat and fuel tank.
  • The air injection system lives just behind the radiator and is mounted to the left side of the engine. The above picture shows the system installed and should look like your setup.

  • Next you'll need to remove the 2 rubber mounted bolts and bracket on the left side of the engine holding the silver metal air valve and the bolts holding the steel air tubing leading up to the top of the engine just next to the spark plug. I think it's 2 - 8mm bolts holding the air tubing.
  • Once completed, you will pull the rubber hoses off of both ends of the plastic solenoid. This is the lower black plastic device with an electrical connector plugged in. Leave it plugged in. Once you pull the hoses off, you'll need to cap them with vacuum caps. Any auto parts store has them. I bought a variety pack for 8 bucks.
The long rubber hose leads up and back to the airbox just above the battery. You may need to pull the left rear plastic for better access. I can't remember if I had to. You'll need to cap that airbox nipple as well.
View attachment 3598727 View attachment 3598717
  • Install the Eagle Mike block off following the included instructions.
  • Re-install the 2 bolts and rubber mounts on the left side of the engine, or not, your choice. I did just to keep crud out of the threads. Don't over tighten and use loctite. Duh, it's a KLR so you know to use loctite.
-You can use a 24 ohm resistor fitted to a Hx040-2 male connector to completely remove the selenoid or leave it plugged in capped off, your choice.
- Reinstall the tank, seat and plastics.
Hope this helps? Probably clear as mud...


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