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I got some good advice from guys following another thread while this happened. But I want to think through all my options and procedure very carefully before i start taking things apart.

What happened: 1994 KLR. Putting the oil plug bolt back in after draining oil. It's one on the ones with the magnet in it. The bottom half of the bolt is hollow with this magnet in it. As I'm putting it in the bolt bound up on the washer and the extra torque sheared the bolt off where it goes from solid to hollow housing the magnet.

Up until a few hours ago I had not heard of a left hand drill bit. You can see where this is going. I try drilling for an easy out but of course the center of the sheared portion is the magnet and wont drill. Then it catches and threads the remains of the bolt right through into my oil sump.

Now I have a 1/4 piece of bolt and magnet in my oil sump.

What are my options for trying to get it out starting with the least invasive? I really don't want to tear this whole engine apart.
 

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I got some good advice from guys following another thread while this happened. But I want to think through all my options and procedure very carefully before i start taking things apart.

What happened: 1994 KLR. Putting the oil plug bolt back in after draining oil. It's one on the ones with the magnet in it. The bottom half of the bolt is hollow with this magnet in it. As I'm putting it in the bolt bound up on the washer and the extra torque sheared the bolt off where it goes from solid to hollow housing the magnet.

Up until a few hours ago I had not heard of a left hand drill bit. You can see where this is going. I try drilling for an easy out but of course the center of the sheared portion is the magnet and wont drill. Then it catches and threads the remains of the bolt right through into my oil sump.

Now I have a 1/4 piece of bolt and magnet in my oil sump.

What are my options for trying to get it out starting with the least invasive? I really don't want to tear this whole engine apart.


The bolt broke in half across the threads? The piece inside is the full diameter?

If so can you see it? Tried to fish around with a magnet or tweezers or something ? If you could get it lined back up with the hole maybe you could get it started in the threads?

Tough situation for sure. I don't know if the oil screen hole is big enough to fit the bolt through. The only other hole into the transmission I can think of would be the shift shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think I'm liable to make thinks worse if I start tearing it apart. First bike, never opened up a KLR.

Anyone in Boise Idaho with experience willing to help?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The bolt broke in half across the threads? The piece inside is the full diameter?

If so can you see it? Tried to fish around with a magnet or tweezers or something ? If you could get it lined back up with the hole maybe you could get it started in the threads?

Tough situation for sure. I don't know if the oil screen hole is big enough to fit the bolt through. The only other hole into the transmission I can think of would be the shift shaft.
Full Diameter. No chance of getting it lined back up I dont think, and then getting pressure and turns on it.
 

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Hmmm...? Time to earn my keep as it were...lol

OK, are you saying that you can get a drill through the magnet at the moment or have not yet taken it to this level yet? If you have I would be very carefull as to where this magnet wants to stick itself to. It will go straight towards the nearest hunk of metal and that would be your transmission I think, not a good thing IMHO. If you have already drilled through the magnet and it's still in the oil plug I would sticka strongish wire through the hole you have made so you can't loose the magnet like above. If you have lost it already I would be getting the best flashlight you can and shine it up into the transmission and look very carefully for the bits. If you can't find them......I would be taking the left side covers off and all parts to get behind the rotor, starter gear and the DOO idler gear and shaft. That is the biggest hole in which you can fish into that cavity. This where I usually fish for broken DOO parts or spring parts, if not there I go after the oil screen. I never start an engine up without first finding out where all parts are or if I haven't found them after an hour or two of fishing. I would then turn the engine over by hand and go through all gears hoping not to feel a stoppage due to a piece of foriegn material. This where you are now I think or soon will be. Can you post up pics of this mess and also pics of what is left of the plug. Perhaps we can count how many threads are still inside the case and work to figure out how best to get them out without loosing the magnet. Once it attaches to a larger object with a greater pull it will be very hard to get it off without some magical help I'm afraid. I would try and make up a piece of plastic or wood that wouldn't snap off deep inside your engine, preferably plastic, thin is good like a cigarette package thickness....Just something to stop that magnet being able to attach itself to something important. I hope this is as clear as I see it in my head. It's starting to sound muddy....sorry. If you can do this then drilling through the magnet is possible maybe. Even a light tap with a small punch to dislodge the magnet from the plug if all else fails. I think I would try to find a way to tap it back out using a very small punch and a small hammer. You may damage the threads of the case but you can always repair those using a heli coil.
What about using a larger drill and removing enough material on the outwardly side of the magnet so it is retrievable from the outside using a stronger magnet...? Then go in and clean up what is left of the threads. The new larger drill bit shouldn't be that much bigger than the inside diameter of the threads I wouldn't think. It may then just be a retapping to get the threads back to new in the same size.

Hope some part of this is helpfull. Just go slow and think each move through and what conciquences each move brings before doing it.

:13:
 

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Augh....now I see.....it's already inside the engine or transmission section.......damn man!
Now you need to take off the left side covers and remover the rotor, starter gear and idler gear for the DOO chain. From here you should be able to fish to where the parts are hiding. IF you are extremely lucky it hasn't already stuck itself to some other metal part deep inside. I would be looking as best you can using a good flashlight and see if you can see it, if you can, bad news! It would mean it's already attached itself to something IMHO or it would be still on the sump pan....which could be the case.....keep your fingers crossed! I'd cross my toes too if it were me! If this is the case, I would now carefully fish with a bendable magnet on a copper or brass pipe. It can be bent into the shape needed to get all the way deep to the sump location, it may just attract the other magnet and bob's your uncle and you are a winner! Go buy a lottery ticket asap! If not and it's stuck on a transmission gear......you have to be able to see and guide something to try and knock it off and drop it into the sump if you can.
If that isn't possible......I'm afraid it will be possibly case splitting time.....sorry.
BUT...make sure you look first and act later......the after effects of doing it wrong are huge and expensive!:scream::13:

If it hasn't already attached itself to something it only needs to find a metal object to jump to, so a metal rod bend would work I think over the magnet, just have to pray it doesn't push it to a larger hunk of metal with more pulling power before it sticks to your rod.....oh that doesn't sound right.....lol
 

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Wow, damn. Rare earth magnets are hella strong. God speed.
 

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A fresh idea, look first, if you can see it....buy a good set of surgical forcepts and see IF you can clamp them onto it....they have enough clamping power and may be thin enough to get into the oil drain hole.:13:
 

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As I understand the problem, the plug fragment rests TOTALLY INSIDE THE SUMP.

None of the suggestions so far offer any possibility of evacuation and removal, as far as I can visualize.

Either 1) Split cases and remove, or

2) Overbore oil drain hole to a diameter large enough to permit removal of plug fragment. Then, tap larger hole for larger plug (perhaps, "piggy-back" drain plug).

Here's an image of a piggy-back plug; before exclaiming over the projection, hex heads could be ground down to reduce projection, even perhaps the inner plug could be replaced with a hex socket machine screw to eliminate any projection at all from the inner plug:



I'd be inclined to try the latter technique (bore oversize, remove plug fragment, tap hole for larger plug).

If a larger plug is impractical, I'd then have the crankcase built up with weld metal, drill, and re-tap for a standard size plug.

Then, if the plug again broke off in the threads, I'd consider obtaining a left-hand twist drill bit to assist in removal!
 

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Any issue with him just leaving it in there? I wonder if its heavy enough and magnetic that it won't go cause damage anywhere?
 

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It would be much better IF the cases were steel, it could just live there and wouldn't be prone to moving around looking for a new place to live like it will now....bug is correct.:13:

As soon as the hot fluid is in there moving around it will wash the magnet to the first piece of large steel and it will clamp onto it and I would bet it'll be tranny gears.....total distruction if not a complete lock up resulting in a crash or worse.

It has to come out...plain and simple......small bits of steel could ne chewed up in the best case synario by the tranny but a lump of a magnet I would dobt it...may happen but I wouldn't want to bet my life on it.:13:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Happy trails professional prognosis

Well first there were a few heartfelt "i'm really sorry's" from my man John at Happy Trail.

His bottom line, we're going to have to tear it all down and split the case to remove your bolt from the sump. $700 minimum labor, not counting all the gaskets and everything, and whatever else we may find.

I asked him about my chance of lucking out and getting at it with a mighty worm magnet. He said my only chance is the right side.

I need everything you guys can tell me about getting into the sump, every possible avenue. Every idea to get this bolt shaft out without complete disassembly.

Thanks in advance,

T33
 

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I think Willy's idea of getting it out on the left side (doohickey side) of the bike is probably the best bet. It would involve pulling the covers and rotor but it would certainly not be $700 in labor... I can't think of any other way you would get it out, definitely not through the oil filler hole as the clutch basket is right there. I would get someone experienced to help you with it, or do the work though... Definitely wouldn't want to cause more damage than has already been done...

Edit: Though I gotta say, if the bikes been moved at all since the bolt broke, the magnet has more than likely already rolled to a piece of metal and attached itself firmly... Especially if it's a rare earth magnet. In that case it would definitely be case splitting time. Sorry I can't be of more help :(
 

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Why NOT drill out the oil drain hole, remove the shaft remnant, then re-tap the hole for a larger oil drain plug?

What does "your man John" say about that approach?

No, I've never done this, or even seen it done.

However, I HAVE seen cases broken by rock strikes, then re-welded.

Why is the bore-out, evacuate plug remnant, then re-thread for larger-diameter plug, solution unsatisfactory/unworkable?

A number of "repair" oil drain plugs exist, that could be used even without tapping the larger hole drilled to remove the broken-off plug sement, such as the rubber expandable plug, such as used to close sump drain holes of small boats (flipping a lever expands the rubber circumference), or the "flapper" type plug, using a threaded toggle inside the crankcase for its tightening shaft.

Ideal? No, but workable, if threading the larger hole and replacing the plug with a larger-diameter one is somehow not workable. At least, less than $ 700 labor is involved.
 

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Why NOT drill out the oil drain hole, remove the shaft remnant, then re-tap the hole for a larger oil drain plug?

What does "your man John" say about that approach?

No, I've never done this, or even seen it done.

However, I HAVE seen cases broken by rock strikes, then re-welded.

Why is the bore-out, evacuate plug remnant, then re-thread for larger-diameter plug, solution unsatisfactory/unworkable?

A number of "repair" oil drain plugs exist, that could be used even without tapping the larger hole drilled to remove the broken-off plug sement, such as the rubber expandable plug, such as used to close sump drain holes of small boats (flipping a lever expands the rubber circumference), or the "flapper" type plug, using a threaded toggle inside the crankcase for its tightening shaft.

Ideal? No, but workable, if threading the larger hole and replacing the plug with a larger-diameter one is somehow not workable. At least, less than $ 700 labor is involved.
I'm just wondering how far that magnet has migrated already... Especially if the bike has been moved. Very expensive "oops!"
 

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The way I understand it is that he has some burrs in the threads and they sngged the plug and then snapped it off halfway, then when trying to drill it out to get the remaining part out with an easyout the drill caught the remaining part and just continued to thread it in untill it went all the way in. This is where he is now. All he needs to do with the oil drain hole is clean the threads up unless they are stripped near the outer side of the hole. BUT even if they are and the inner threads are still intake he could sill use the original sized hole just be carefull when retapping to clean the thread out.
I agree with stew, if the magnet has had or has to ability to roll around it will or has already stuck to a piece of metal. The best way is to get a good flashlight and peep as best you can up into the hole ans ee if you can see it. Then start the worrying if you can see it stuck to a gear or something metal. If you can't see it I would expect it to hopefully be still sitting in the sump and he needs to go fishing with a metal wire and hope that the magnet sticks to that and nothing else. If he uses another magnet the two may repell each other and shoot the magnet up into the tranny gears. A semi thick wire would be my tool of choice to start with. Now if he can see it, I would take a trip to a habour frieght type store or medical store and see how thin a good set of pinchers are and see if you could get them up the oil drain hole and clamp onto or atleast get the magnet off the gear and try fishing again. I would take days to get that magent out before splitting the cases. It won't be cheap splitting the cases if he takes it to a dealer or shop. If he can find someone like me who works for half the cost of the dealers he will be better off for sure $$$wise.
Between a rock and a hard place I'm afraid.....good luck.:13:
 

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I'm just wondering how far that magnet has migrated already... Especially if the bike has been moved. Very expensive "oops!"
The OP can clarify, but . . . my assumption/understanding, the remnant of the oil drain plug shaft rests at the bottom of the crankcase, just inside the oil drain hole . . .

Since the case metal is non-magnetic, the magnet of the plug is of no issue, given the fragment's assumed repose position.

Aligning the fragment with the existing threads, from the outside of the hole, appears impossible. The hole is too small in diameter to remove the plug segment at this time.

Thus, I suggest ENLARGING the hole, drilling it out to a size where the segment can be evacuated downward through the now-larger oil drain hole.

Then, the new, larger-diameter hole can be threaded with an appropriate tap for a larger-diameter drain plug (they're commonly available in incremental sizes, metric and SAE, up to 19 mm (vs. stock 12 mm), perhaps even larger).

I'd think a 19 mm diameter hole, maybe even a smaller one, large enough to evacuate a segment of a 12 mm drain plug.

Yet; ain't MY bike! Tear her down and split the cases, if that's the preferred technique!
 

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No offence but I would be fishing untill I either got it out or knew for sure it had connected to something metal before going to those two extremes IMHO....splitting the cases is a huge job, something even I haven't had the pleasure of needing to do yet and also drilling a sump to get a piece out is a huge job to repair the hole that you make...IMHO.

As stated above, ain't my bike either so it's up to him and I would be sweating bullets untill I got that piece out for sure!!!:13:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah I'll be fishing for a while.

A question about drilling for an oversize drain plug, which is a really attractive option.

The case has to be thicker for a certain area around where the drain plug hole is to allow for the depth of bolt? Anyone know how wide across the bottom of the case that thickened area is?

I don't want to start drilling a larger hole and find out I've drilled the edges to the thin section of case?
 
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