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Discussion Starter #1
While the title may suggest that this thread is about my ex-wife, I thought it might be useful to share some of the inexpensive and easy to do modifications which we have discovered.

Most of these will be done on KLR#2, thanks to planalp's mention of not positioning the slot in the clutch adjustment srew upward. Thanks very much for the mention as it got my mind working on simple mods to am making a list for KLR#2. I owe you lunch for gently getting me off my butt.

Here are a few of the ones I have either originated or learned about. Unfortunately, I have not documented the source so if have stolen one of your ideas, apologies offered.

1) Replace stop-tail bulb with #2357 which makes for a brighter brake light.

2) Silicone RTV used to glue a steel horsehoe shaped plate into the LH case inside shift lever travel. The suggestion was to reduce the chance of having the shifter head driven through the case in a fall/impact. Will look for a photo if someone wishes.

3) Replaced clutch cable by a Yamaha ATV cable. This required modification of the attached cable mounting or adjustment (it's been almost 10 years since did that one). The cable is much stronger and never did need replacing. Show me where to add "I'm an idiot!" to my signature as don't seem to have recorded the number. :SadSigh:

4) Install switch to turn off high beam to save power when doing long slow trail riding. Since I ride with high beam on most of the time, experience has been that my high beam burns out first so low beam should be more reliable as back-up. I wanted to be able to instinctively switch the headlight on when meeting another machine on a trail so believe that hitting dimmer to low will be more instinctive.

5) Gut automatic garage door remote and solder push button to controller. Guts into sealed container and button out of sight in dash area. Nice to be able to roll up and open door rather than dig out keys.

6) Notch seat bolt hole and install spacer tubes onto bolts to allow seat to be removed and installed without doing bolts.

7) RTV siliconed alumimum plate to left side of radiator to increase resistance to side crushing. KLR#2 has HT guards so many not do.

8) Made pedal saver cables from salvaged bicycle cables.

Lots more but likely others have better ones...


HIH

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
KLR#2 has that same switch pod! Thanks for the identification.

The price is very decent too. When I was doing the mods on my previous KLR, the only switch pod I could find was OEM Honda and the price went against my Welsh ancestry. (VBG)

I really like the simplicity of the Africa set-up and will suggest that to a couple of friends. When ever one throws out a modification thought, someone seems to have an improvement which was 1/2 of why I posted those mods.

Appreciated, Crashoveride!

Norm


to #4 Try out the afrika cluster which I have on my KLR.



Crash
 

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On the Gen one the pod can control the spare aux wires at the front because they are tired into the lights.

Or turn off all the lights while running to avoid zombies.


Crash
 

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On Gen 2 bikes, at the very least, Re-route the Pink carburetor air vent hose.
Off the Top of the air box.
Better to go over the big frame tube and Down to the top of the shock.
Keeps wash water from possibly entering the carb.

Better yet, just do the "tee mod", one Longer hose up to the front fuel tank 'donut' bracket and T the existing hose down behind the engine.
 

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On ALL bikes and your cars and trucks. Hid a spare key.

I like to use a blob of RTV silicone to attach the HEAD of the spare key in a location accessible with few or Zero tools. Use masking tape to hold in-place while silicon cures. Check it occasionally.
I see Mine every time I service the air filter. Oops, don't borrow my bike!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did I mention an old friend mounted a spare key in a similar manner? Nice, secure hidden location. Only problem was that he couldn't get to the key without removing the seat, couldn't remove the seat without his tools and couldn't get to his tools because the other key for his pannier locks was on the ring he couldn't find. Of course, we only remind him of this periodically. Oh look! It's been almost 24 hours. :28: He sulks when we ask him about the keys so assume that he has both keys in a new location.

Reminds me, no spare key hidden on KLR#2. Thanks for the reminder, pd!

I'd never live long enough to escape the reminders.....:desismiley1:


On ALL bikes and your cars and trucks. Hid a spare key.

I like to use a blob of RTV silicone to attach the HEAD of the spare key in a location accessible with few or Zero tools. Use masking tape to hold in-place while silicon cures. Check it occasionally.
I see Mine every time I service the air filter. Oops, don't borrow my bike!
 

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On a stock KLR any year, Quick chain slack check. NO lowering links.
Lift the bottom run of chain, If IT almost touches the rubber slider, perfect.
If it bends around the RH end of the rubber slider and almost touches metal, time to adjust, tighter, 1/2 turn of bolts or so.

If your chain is MORE than 1/8", from touching the rubber slider, IT IS TOO TIGHT!
This works for NO LOWERING Links.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As expected, some great additions such as the pink hose modification. One of my first rides on my new 2004 KLR was in the rain and the discovery of the mod. spared chasing what seemed to be a wet ignition gremlin. It's one of those no-brainer modifications, IMO.

Must mention the exhaust camshaft modification as this one is also cheap. The simple & easy part depend on context although this is certainly both simpler and easier than a valve adjustment. I'm very pleased with the improvement to my 1997. The torque is improved in the lower and mid-range as well as making for a quieter running engine. I notice less of the "knocking" sound from lugging in the 2,000 RPM range such as when using mild acceleration in 5th gear around town. (Yes, I know but was testing)

The engine runs smoother and has over 100 RPM higher idle speed. I guess the best way to describe the difference is to say that it used to run like it had a jumped timing chain. (VBG) We used to advance cam timing on 1970's and early 1980's V8's as a matter of course so forehead smacking that never bothered to try this out on a KLR just for interest. Oh, well it's easy to infer after the facts are known and this should never, ever reduce the laurels to the discoverer. :)
 

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When checking the Torque of the Lower Rear engine mount, DO NOT ALLOW the head of the BOLT, on the LEFT hand side to TURN!

If the bolt head turns (counter-clockwise), IT usually DRAGS the Lower chain slider UP, out of place, off of the frame cross pipe.
 

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When mounting a Happy Trails skid plate, and probably others.

I use a hole saw to make RUBBER Donut holes out of used car and truck tires.
Use a Thinner (1/4- 3/8") car donut at the Forward frame clamp area and a Thicker (3/8-1/2") truck donut at the Rearward frame clamp area.

(Tip for donuts, hole saw the edge tread, Makes a Tapered Donut.)

Mount them, Between frame and skid plate. You may have to elongate the bolt slots a bit. Or Bend the 'hook' a bit. Or grind the back edge of the Rearward clamp for footrest bracket clearance.

The REWARD for this Extra Effort? OIL Drain plug is better protected!
And maybe a little less vibratory Noise.
 

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Next time you have to replace a broken speedometer cable on the Gen 1 bikes, because the 'Rigid' mount, on the Lower Fork leg, Broke the outer cable housing, order 1 more part. 13071-S021.

What is it? A wire cable Guide, Not a Rigid clamp! Mount the 'LOOP', Down, along side the fork leg. Not Sticking 'Straight back'.

It is from the Suzi/Saki DRZ400/ KLX400. $7.56 USD.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I can't live without knowing the time and hauling out my cell phone while riding is imprudent as well as illegal.

Here's my solution which is to strap a cheap. large face weatherproof wrist watch from the thrift store onto the right grip area. Snip the tie wraps to gain access underneath.

Cost: watch = free
(2) tie wraps = $0.02

HIH

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)

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When mounting a Happy Trails skid plate, and probably others.

I use a hole saw to make RUBBER Donut holes out of used car and truck tires.
Use a Thinner (1/4- 3/8") car donut at the Forward frame clamp area and a Thicker (3/8-1/2") truck donut at the Rearward frame clamp area.

(Tip for donuts, hole saw the edge tread, Makes a Tapered Donut.)

Mount them, Between frame and skid plate. You may have to elongate the bolt slots a bit. Or Bend the 'hook' a bit. Or grind the back edge of the Rearward clamp for footrest bracket clearance.

The REWARD for this Extra Effort? OIL Drain plug is better protected!
And maybe a little less vibratory Noise.
You can get a low profile drain plug too.


Crash
 

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cheap and easy

Normk - I'm a little thick (headed) but can you expand a bit on #6. I would love not to have to diddle with the seat every time I do something. I will try the tail light bulb change. Visibility is good. Blessings Bob B.
 

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You can get a low profile drain plug too.


Crash
Crash,
Have you seen the Damage, that an Incompletely Threaded 'low profile' drain plug can Do, when the owner leaves the Crush Gasket OFF!

IT Splits the plug Boss, creates a leak, they tighten a 'little' more, More Leakage. They tighten, More. Stripping the threads, at minimum.
Worst case, they break-out, a Tri-angular Chunk!

The Factory drain plug, will screw in and SEAL. Next time IT is removed, IT just takes a wrench to Remove it, Most of the Way.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Kind of you to try to take responsibility for my poor description, Bob. I'll try to do better. I think these photos might help.



Normk - I'm a little thick (headed) but can you expand a bit on #6. I would love not to have to diddle with the seat every time I do something. I will try the tail light bulb change. Visibility is good. Blessings Bob B.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hazard flashers are easy to create for the KLR or most other bikes.

Use a test light or voltmeter to identify the "hot" wire to each of the front turn signal lights. The "hot" wire is the one which is powered (positive side of the bulb) while the other is the ground side which is connected to the common ground or frame.

Obtain a simple On/Off switch of what ever type most appeals. Weatherproof switches are often best but ordinary ones can be weather sealed with some innovation.

Connect two wires from the switch, one to each turn signal "hot' wire.

When the switch is off, the signals operate normally. When the switch is on, the signals will flash (all four) together so simply flip the switch and signal either way for hazard flashers. This works very well for those times when one is negotiating a construction area, for example.

I found that people would blast up behind me and was concerned as to whether I was seen. If I used the signal lights to increase visibility, signaling right would encourage them to pass me on the left; signaling left would encourage them to pass me on the right. Grrrr!!!

One can connect to the signal light "hot" wires by stripping into the wires and connecting or (better, IMO) by making up a "T" connector. The "T" consists of a bullet connector with an additional short wire. This is crimped/soldered to the end of the wire leading from the switch. The end of the short wire has an opposite bullet connector attached to the end. Use a male bullet in one position and female in the other. This allows the signal light "hot wire to be unplugged and plugged into the "T". No cut wiring and no splices. This way the bike can be put back to stock without any butchered wiring.

I usually like to install an electronic flasher but this is usually optional.

*Note: this hazard light system will not work with key off but that can be accomplished quite simply if one wishes. I can describle if that is of interest to someone.

Please proof this post and recommend improvements if it is not clear. I can post some photos when get around to installing hazards onto KLR#2.

HIH

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Dash

A 1/2 hour to fabricate and install a dash:

It was cut from a sheet of 1/8" Lexan which speeds production greatly over using metal. The three mounting brackets are aluminum, threaded for screws through the Lexan and using the three windscreen mounting screws. The voltmeter is a weatherproof EBay recommended by a post in a KLR group. I forget who posted but thanks again as is a better choice than the non-sealed ones I have bought before as save fooling with sealing.

If decide that don't like the Lexan, it is simpler to wait until I get everything worked out for install and then use the Lexan as a template. It often takes several tries because one tends to add unanticipated items or items of different sizing/location.

Voltmeter has yet to be connected as will connect to the main power relay when it is installed. This relay will run from the battery side of the starter relay so will reflect charging voltage at the battery which is most useful for my purposes. The relay will, of course, have the other coil lead grounded to the starter side of the starter relay so as to turn it off when starting in order to reduce load on the battery during cranking. Waiting for pulse width modulators off EBay also recommended by a KLR post rather than the wireless remote one I have used in the past. I like the rotary knob system and the wireless unit is limited one to a bike because of the coding and frequency, IME.

I just acquired an FIAMM horn which hope is the same model as used on other KLR installs because that one fits into the original location without a bunch of fooling about. Will do that at the same time as the main power relay as in the same area of the over flow tank.
 
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