Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, question regarding the oil.
KLR 09
close to 16000 miles
located at tropical hot humid salty weather place, close to sea in mexico.

i live in a very small town where my options for oil at the local supermarket are reduced to 5 or 6 kinds of oil out of which only 3 are 20w 50w,

theres two Quaker State and one Peak.

1) Quaker SAE 25w-50 API SL (says for high mileage on the red container and helps seal leaks, not that i have any...)

2) Quaker 20w-50 API SN (says in the gray container: racing oil and extends the life of the engine)

3) Peak Engine oil 4 cycle SAE 20w-50 JASO MA Blue container.

i know what the manual says, i should be just fine with the JASO MA, and the manual only mentions from SE to SL, i dont know if the SN came later and thus its not in the manual of a 09 KLR.

im inclined to get quaker 20w-50 Api SN, seems to be the most recent because of the SN label...

the Peak JASO MA seems ok

are these options ok? i mean, i know it is not Rotella which many at this forum seem to be keen on, im not sure if they sell that here in mexico to be honest.

its what i have available without garbbing the highway...

im wondering if you guys have any experience with any of these and if i should go with one over the other.
to put it simple i do live like an hour away from a larger city (cancun) where i can find perhaps more suitable oil for the bike. im sure theres an autozone and even a small Kawasaki dealer.. i just dont want to make the almost 2 hour trip every time i have to change oil...
also here at the local gas station they have a Bardahl 4 stroke motorcycle oil JASO... any thoughts?

Thanks to anybody patient enough to read and give some input. i appreciate it GRACIAS!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,568 Posts
I'd go with either of the Jaso oils. The Bardahl would be my first choice.

You don't necessarily have to go with a 20W-50 oil either. 15W-40, 15W-50 even 10W-40 would be fine. But for all choices if it's JASO rated that will be your best choice.

As to the SN rating. That covers any lower rating from SE - SL.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,842 Posts
I'll also urge you to use one of the JASO MA or MA2 rated oils.

The MA (Motorcycle Application?) rating tells us that the oil should Not Cause any starter sprag slippage or drive clutch slippage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Hi, question regarding the oil.
KLR 09
close to 16000 miles
located at tropical hot humid salty weather place, close to sea in mexico.

i live in a very small town where my options for oil at the local supermarket are reduced to 5 or 6 kinds of oil out of which only 3 are 20w 50w,

theres two Quaker State and one Peak.

1) Quaker SAE 25w-50 API SL (says for high mileage on the red container and helps seal leaks, not that i have any...)

2) Quaker 20w-50 API SN (says in the gray container: racing oil and extends the life of the engine)

3) Peak Engine oil 4 cycle SAE 20w-50 JASO MA Blue container.

i know what the manual says, i should be just fine with the JASO MA, and the manual only mentions from SE to SL, i dont know if the SN came later and thus its not in the manual of a 09 KLR.

im inclined to get quaker 20w-50 Api SN, seems to be the most recent because of the SN label...

the Peak JASO MA seems ok

are these options ok? i mean, i know it is not Rotella which many at this forum seem to be keen on, im not sure if they sell that here in mexico to be honest.

its what i have available without garbbing the highway...

im wondering if you guys have any experience with any of these and if i should go with one over the other.
to put it simple i do live like an hour away from a larger city (cancun) where i can find perhaps more suitable oil for the bike. im sure theres an autozone and even a small Kawasaki dealer.. i just dont want to make the almost 2 hour trip every time i have to change oil...
also here at the local gas station they have a Bardahl 4 stroke motorcycle oil JASO... any thoughts?

Thanks to anybody patient enough to read and give some input. i appreciate it GRACIAS!

The "S" numbers like SG, SL, SM, and SN, go in alphabetical order. SN is backwards compatible with SM, SL, and SG.

Since you are near the water, you might try a Marine shop and see if they have some Diesel oil (5W-40 or 15W-40). I do not know if you need 20-50W oil.

If the three oils you have listed above are all the same price, I would get the Quaker State 20W-50. If not, get the cheapest one.

.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
is there any significant advantage in using Diesel oil?
thanks!
Diesel oil has more anti-wear additives (ZDDP), and usually has a higher TBN. TBN is Total Base Number which usually translates into how long the oil's additives can fight/stop acids and corrosion. Higher TBN = longer lasting.



.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,601 Posts
Just musing; how particular are KLRistas with the oil in their daily driver automobiles/pickups?

Oh, I know; shared sump with transmission on a KLR; vicious shear stress . . .

That said, I'd imagine Kawasaki's API service codes and viscosity recommendation would help a KLRista make it through the night.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
I run Mobile 1 in all of my vehicles. 5 cars, 2 tractors and 3 4wheelers. I usually add Tribotec at 20,000 mile Intervals for my cars. Would Mobile 1 and an anti wear additive harm the clutch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Just musing; how particular are KLRistas with the oil in their daily driver automobiles/pickups?

Oh, I know; shared sump with transmission on a KLR; vicious shear stress . . .

That said, I'd imagine Kawasaki's API service codes and viscosity recommendation would help a KLRista make it through the night.

I use a lot of different oil in my Truck. I buy what I find on sale or closeout. I have mixed 2qts 20W-50 with 4qts 0W-20. It gives my a good 10W-30 oil.

I have also mixed 1qt of Redline 10W racing oil with 1qt 5W-50 Castrol. I get a great 5W-30 oil that has enough TBN to last 2 oil changes.

If I had a high dollar race bike or an expensive high performance car, I would use exactly what they recommend - especially if it is under warranty. My GMC gasoline truck has a V-8 engine with 125K+ miles, and no special adjustable valve timing components, so I can run whatever I want. In Winter it gets 5W-30 or 0W-30 equivalent oil. In Sumner I run either 5W-30, 0W-30, 10W-30, 0W-40, or 5W-40.


.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,842 Posts
--------------- Would Mobile 1 and an anti wear additive harm the clutch?
Hvymax,
Your anti wear additive could be too heavy on molybdenum and actually cause starter sprag slippage or drive clutch slippage.
I'm certain that Mobile would recommend against it!

Have you read this thread,
http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/38962-laboratory-oil-analysis-thread.html

if not, at least read the paragraph by Blackstone on my 1st ever analysis.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top