There is a good chance that now that the bolt is not under load it will turn out with very little torque. Using your center dimpling suggestion and the left handed drill bit that pdwestman suggested the bolt will likely come out with the torque from the left handed bit biting in as it cuts down. It might even come out by tapping counter clockwise with a sharp punch.Sorry to see that dutchman, but it was certainly no surprise.
The good news is that your dutchman is not preloaded, so it should be fairly easy to remove. However, take no short cuts when preparing for its removal. If it were me I would first take a Dremel tool with a small globe-shaped stone and make a dimple about 1/16" deep in the center of the broken face of the dutchman. Then using a hammer and a sharp prick punch make a sharp dimple in the center of the previously made dimple. Next using an appropriately sized drill bit for the "Easyout" you selected, drill a hole using the prick punch dimple as a centering guide. Insert the Easyout into the hole you just drilled and give it a light tap with a hammer. Lastly, using a wrench, start rotating the Easyout to the left and the dutchman should come right out.
I would then drill, tap and install a Hellicoil sized to match the thread on the valve cover bolt. Obviously you'll need to buy an new bolt from Kawasaki. Lastly, I would buy new sealing washers for the valve cover bolts, and perhaps a new valve cover gasket.
Of course before grinding, drilling and tapping, you need to take whatever means necessary to keep debris out of the head. Probably stuff some rags around the area you will be working on.
The torque via a right-hand drill bit is negligible. The most important aspect of drilling ANY hole in the dutchman is to make damn sure it's in the center, hence my two-step process.A right hand drill bit may snag and screw the stub IN farther & Harder. A Left hand drill bit may snag & simply un-screw the stub.
I'm confident that the original threads are NOT compromised, otherwise the stub wouldn't have broken, the threads would have stripped.
Maybe a left-hand drill bit will work, but a person should be able to come up with an easyout and right-hand drill bit quicker than a left-hand drill bit. So why not?There is a good chance that now that the bolt is not under load it will turn out with very little torque. Using your center dimpling suggestion and the left handed drill bit that pdwestman suggested the bolt will likely come out with the torque from the left handed bit biting in as it cuts down. It might even come out by tapping counter clockwise with a sharp punch.
I see your point. The bolt is likely bottomed out already and either bit would get the job done and easy-outs are easier to find than left handed bits. So it is an owner's choice.Maybe a left-hand drill bit will work, but a person should be able to come up with an easyout and right-hand drill bit quicker than a left-hand drill bit. So why not?
I can see I'm swatting at an empty pinata here, so I'm through with this discussion. :SadSigh:
:sign0161: Should have thought of that one all on my own.Schoen, I'm sure that those are NOT inserts into either of those stud towers. That is only the pattern of the flat base of the special, stepped oem bolts.
Just use a magnet on the un-damaged aluminum tower to confirm or refute my suggestion. And then the tower with broken steel stub.
1. I didn't have a cork, but do sleep with earplugs at night. One of those worked.Have you noticed the oil drain hole near that mounting tower?...I would suggest plugging it with a cork before any drilling.
I would secure a vacuum cleaner hose very close to the tower to suck up as much chips as possible while drilling.
Are you certain that a pencil eraser or sharp awl can't turn the broken stub at all?
I would use an 1/8th" LH drill bit if I had to resort to drilling.
Glad that it is "outta' there"!!I ran the good bolt into the threads, they seem to function about the same as the rear threads (right rear stud tower). It also firmly seats against the top of the stud. So, still not sure how/why it broke where it broke. Waiting for new bolt. To be safe, I also ordered all new bolt gaskets and valve cover gasket.