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Yay! Glad to see the happy ending to that story!

The former owner's behavior is disgraceful He obviously realized that he broke the bolt, or thought that he stripped the thread and sold the problem on, rather than deal with the problem himself. Otherwise, his mechanic, (who may have done the mod to the cylinder head) was a dishonest cowboy!

I just looked at this thread for first time . Great to see it worked out for you.

Once again i feel inspired to comment on what a great online community this forum is. We done to all those who contributed to this successful outcome!

Cheers

matthew
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Yay! Glad to see the happy ending to that story!...Once again i feel inspired to comment on what a great online community this forum is. Well done to all those who contributed to this successful outcome!
matthew
Plans fail for lack of counsel, but with many advisers they succeed. Proverbs 15:22
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
So all the parts finally arrived and I started to get back into it. Was hoping to take off the valve cover so I could ensure all the silicone glue comes off and nothing else is in there that shouldn't be. I disconnected both the top and bottom radiator mount bolts so I could get the thermo-bob out of the way of the valve cover, but that darn TB is still preventing me from getting the valve cover out. I'm either going to splurge and do the TB2 or just go back to basics with the stock hose setup - either way that's probably another week of parts ordering. But that's not why I'm writing. Is it really possible to get the valve cover off with the TB there? I'm really not looking forward to draining the cooling system like the manual says (because I think I would have to remove the HT skid plate we installed recently to access the drain). If anyone sees an easier way of getting the valve cover off without messing with the coolant/TB/skid plate, please chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Valve cover off. Thanks, Tom!
1. rear upper engine mount needed to be swung out of the way (lower bolt left in place, just loosened), and
2. the fan wire needed to be disconnected (top white connector) so I could push the radiator/T-Bob/hose even further forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Well, she's back together and actually running. This took a while due to a number of things but, while waiting for gaskets and bolt to arrive and since I already had a bunch of stuff off the bike, I decided to:
1. Remove the (California) Vapor Recovery System, and
2. Remove the Air Induction System, and
3. Remove the (vacuum actuated) petcock, and
4. Switch over to a manual petcock.
Of course, this necessitated the ordering of a few more parts.
Got it all buttoned up a few days ago (minus the body pieces) and tried to start. Was surprised when it actually did. Would stumble/falter when I goosed it, but the most noticeable issue was the throttle not springing back (I had not done anything to that). So I reviewed some threads and videos and learned that oiling the cables might solve the issue. Found that the lower throttle housing Philips screw head was stripped and rusted (seems to be a theme on this bike). Had to use an impact screw driver to get it out. Ended up replacing those screws with a couple of hex heads from home depot for a buck. Oiled the cables and they seem to work fine now. I did notice that both cables have a tiny fray at the bottom end, just outside the cable housing and that may have had something to do with the no-snap-back issue. If the problem returns sooner rather than later, I'll assume that's the source and just replace both cables. Falter/stumble seems to have gone away (in the driveway, that is). Would love to say it rides great but it's raining (yeah, I know, that's what Seattle does best). Will wait for a better day. But now that I know that it runs and I didn't screw anything up, I might perform that clutch/kickstand safety switch bypass surgery. Thanks again to everyone for help on this.
Update - just got word from Eagle Mike that he now has these throttle housing screws in stainless steel - hex.
 
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