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Discussion Starter #1
This week was my scheduled week to start tearing down my KLR so I could mail out pieces to various vendors for upgrades and machine work, but as life will, stuff happened and I only have 3-4 days to get as much as I can done. Today was the first day I had to work on it. It stated like this ...



And ended here ...



All the removed parts are in the cabinet. All the bolts are in baggies labeled with their location.

Only other thing I plan to do today is drain the coolant. Oil is already drained and awaiting recycling.

Tomorrow’s plan is to remove the rest of the Happy Trails skid plate, front skid plant with highway pegs, and the final pieces of the nerf bars. Looks like that final piece runs through the front engine mount too.

After that, I think I’ll remove the top engine mount and carburetor. Not sure if that as I need to look more at the engine mounts and make sure I don’t remove too many to still work on the engine in the frame.

If my friend comes over I might just pull the entire engine out and work on it on my bench where it’ll be easier to get to all the hidden bolts. So we’ll see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well, after removing a lot of parts I found a crack in the lower engine mount. I’m going to have to get it fixed when I send out the lower crankcase to be vapor blasted.

Is this something that happens often on the KLR?



Too bad I don’t know how to weld on my own. Although I’ve been thinking about learning, but just have enough reasons to learn and buy the equipment.
 

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The swingarm pivot, lower rocker pivot & bottom rear engine should be the last 3 loosened / removed.

You Will Want that engine Rigidly anchored to loosen and remove the clutch, crank gear & Especially the Flywheel which was supposed to be torqued to 144 ft lbs.

I've dealt with a few flywheels that nearly 'jumped off' the crank once the bolt was removed and a couple that the mounting flange had to be quickly heated with an oxy/acetylene torch to keep from stripping the few threads in the flange with the puller.

EM does make a "Super Puller" if the threads do get stripped by careless mechanics!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This one is the only only one removed actually. I temporarily removed the top mount just to pull the carb, but put it back. After pulling off the sprocket cover, chain, then sprocket I saw the crack and pulled the bolt.

Glad you mentioned the flywheel though. I’ve got the EM tools and a few others, so hopefully I’ll get them out without issue. I was debating something though ...

Start from the top down removing components or start from the sides and remove flywheels, stator, clutch, etc. before the top end.

Is there a best way - namely easier to ensure success?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No; that sucks.....:frown2:


Oh bummer! Well on the good news side I can buy replacement cases on eBay for a bit over $100. And the good news is ... the side that cracked does not have the motor serial number on it. So I can replace the left side without any DMV issues.

Now I just have to decide on a top down or side first tear down. Currently, I’m thinking of taking it apart from the top down.
 

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DMV doesn’t give two shits about the engine serial number. They only care about the VIN on the head tube.

The cases are matched sets. You really shouldn’t replace just one side. You stand a good chance of canting the components and introducing binding into the bearings. For a shade tree fix on a ‘ride it around the orchard’ bike, yeah, but on a real build, no.

You can’t get the head off without getting the cam chain out of the way and simply dropping the cam chain down the tunnel is rather poor technique. Removing the rotor and right side stuff will cause the crank to rotate some. If the top end is off then the piston will flop around a bit, which is rather poor technique.

Strip the right and left sides as much as possible, then remove the top end. Of course, as part of stripping the left side, the cams will be one of the first things removed... ;^)
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I can say in CA they do - at times - care about the engine serial number. When I brought my BMW from Tx into CA they inspected all the numbers and initially refused to sign off on it until I showed them where the numbers were along with the all 50 states smog certification. But I’ll admit it all depends on who you get at DMV and what their mood is at that moment.

Thanks for letting me know about the matching cases. I wasn’t aware they were a matched set. It’s good you let me know as I found a matched set and thought I might not need both. Bought it for $180 delivered.

And thanks for the advice on the tear down too. I’ll see how much I can get done between now and Monday. I’d really like to start boxing up and shipping pieces out by Monday, but it all depends on how easy it comes apart. Hopefully, I won’t find any more damaged parts.
 

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Well, after removing a lot of parts I found a crack in the lower engine mount. I’m going to have to get it fixed when I send out the lower crankcase to be vapor blasted.

Is this something that happens often on the KLR?



Too bad I don’t know how to weld on my own. Although I’ve been thinking about learning, but just have enough reasons to learn and buy the equipment.

Just on a whim.................

Have you ever dropped your KLR on those Happy Trail crash bars?
Friend had a set and dropped it a couple of times. Then found that the front engine mount/attaching point for the bars was bent to one side causing the engine to sit off-line. His case cracked in the same place at that rear mount.
So check that front mount to be sure it's straight.

Good Luck!
 

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As a matter of fact I have. On the opposite side though. And I did notice that when I pulled the bolts for the bars all of them were out of alignment.
Any excessive wear on the front sprocket? As in side loading if the chain wasn't in alignment? Might check to see if the sprockets are lined up, that will give you a indication on how far off the engine is sitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any excessive wear on the front sprocket? As in side loading if the chain wasn't in alignment? Might check to see if the sprockets are lined up, that will give you a indication on how far off the engine is sitting.

No, the sprocket looked evenly worn. And when I changed the rear tire I used an alignment tool. Previous alignment was also good.

I’ll check the front mount in the morning to see if it’s aligned properly. At first glance it looked okay and the highway pegs - attached to the mount - also looked horizontal.

I did pull the top mount to remove the carburetor but would have thought that would do it as the upper rear mount and front mounts were still tight. Honestly, the crack might have been there when I bought it and I just didn’t notice it. It’s on the chain side and was dirty. I cleaned the motorcycle a bit after I dumped it sidewise on a small hill. I didn’t really notice it until I pulled the sprocket and had a direct line of site to it.

I purchased a matching set from another 2009 on eBay. Assuming they are in working order, I’ll just use that set. I already bought new bearings for the case anyway so as long as my internal parts fit I should be fine building it out.
 

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Well, I can say in CA they do - at times - care about the engine serial number. When I brought my BMW from Tx into CA...
Why are you constructing an argument that is outside the original context?

I think I‘ll stand down.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why are you constructing an argument that is outside the original context?



I think I‘ll stand down.


Didn’t mean to upset you. Just pointing out in CA an inspection can be difficult. This KLR came from AZ so it’s not a 50 states motorcycle. So the serial number of the engine did concern me. However, since you explained the cases need to be a matching set it’s not like I have much choice anyway.

It’s currently titled and registered in CA so as long as I’m not picked for a random test or pulled over by the police it’s not likely to be an issue.
 

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There is absolutely no correlation between your VIN and the serial number of the engine. There is absolutely no difference between a California engine and a 49 state engine to begin with. Anything that makes a "CA bike" is stuff external to the engine, i.e. evap cans, tank venting. There is no circumstance wherein you will be called on the carpet for having a different serial number on the engine than that which it was delivered with, as there is no record of such in any government archive. I would rather doubt that Kawasaki keeps the build records that might have that information for much longer than the warranty period.

You are making up all of this stuff to be concerned about. There isn't even any vehicle inspection for motorcycles in California and they are exempt from emissions tests, so how can it be 'difficult' once the bike is registered?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I know the engine is the same and the 50 states certification is all emission related. I’m only expressing my “real world” experience titling and registering an out of state BMW in Souther CA. It is what happened to me at the DMV office out here.

The only reason it was registered that day is because I spoke to my BMW dealer previously to ask their advice and preempted the DMV office by being prepared with the location of the VIN, engine serial number, and location of the 50 stated emissions certification sticker. The DMV guy spent 10 minutes looking it over then gave up and flat out told me he needed that information to sign off on the in state title & registration. So at that point I showed him and all was good. I don’t know if it was his personal requirement, he was having a bad day, hated pretentious BMW motorcycles, or what. It’s just what I experienced.

I just figured since he stated he needed it, it’s kept in a database somewhere, but I don’t know for sure. I do know they have funny rules and a vehicle that has been changed, or was damaged and needs to be recertified by the state, is considered a salvage motorcycle. Personally, I don’t want a motorcycle with a salvage title as they are difficult to insure for value and difficult to resale.

What more can I say? California is a weird state and when I finally retire in 10 plus years I’m moving out of it to someplace a bit more normal with common sense rules.

At this point though, I’m not going to worry about it. Other than I will keep my case and try and get it repaired in case I do need it in the future. I don’t expect to, but I’d rather be prepared and not need it that need it and not have it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
On the plus side of things, I did remove the clutch cover and stator cover tonight. I’m stopping there as I want to take better pictures before proceeding with any other component removal.

And if anyone is interested, the Husky lights in sale at Home Depot that use LEDs with 6 1.5 volt batteries are awesome. Particularly for only $12. Lit up my work area quite well.
 

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I know the engine is the same and the 50 states certification is all emission related. I’m only expressing my “real world” experience titling and registering an out of state BMW in Souther CA.
The scrutiny you relate applies ONLY to BMWs; KLRs enjoy exemption from such examination.

:)

Oh, yes . . . the painted dots ("circles") inside your covers mentioned on another thread may have been an extra-cost factory option.

:)
 

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You posted the broken casting as I was typing yesterday, therefore I didn't even see it, until today.

I'll suggest that that casting broke because no one ever re-torqued that engine mount at the 500 mile break-in maintenance mark. And probably most other critical & not so critical mounts. There is a whole lot more to proper break-in maintenance than just an oil change! Even some dis-assembly / re-assembly required and a thorough job will never be free from a quality dealer because it takes a fair bit of time.

There probably was some abnormal stress (from a crash) placed into the frame & mounts when that lower rear mount was loose, so it shifted and cracked.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The scrutiny you relate applies ONLY to BMWs; KLRs enjoy exemption from such examination.

Probably too true. I liked my BMWs, but mostly because I just love the boxer engine. I actually hated the ride on my 2009 RT. It was too smooth. I was totally isolated from the road. It was like driving rather than riding. It was one of the reasons I replaced it with a 2005 ST. But that was also heavy so again, I replaced it with a F800ST. That was a fun ride, but still wasn’t quite what I wanted.

I’m much happier with the KLR. No ABS. No traction control. No electronic suspension. I can feel the road. Sometimes too much which is why the suspension is being upgraded. But I truly enjoy the interaction and the use of all four appendages with me being in control of how and when they are used.
 
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