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Discussion Starter #1
I intend this as information in case it might be useful to someone. Please accept that I'm tired and a bit grumpy so might sound more negative than intended. :badmood:

Others will (hopefully) fill in some blanks with better information.


Previous work I've done on this 2013 which has already been up the Dempster and some other trips: the exhaust cam advance, EM doohikey with torsion spring, valve adjustment clean oil screen, 195 F thermostat & thermostat bypass system of my own design + a bunch of other work.

This 2-day session:
KLX needle and 142 main jet; carb bowl and diaphragm cover screws; pull snorkel; drill 3/4 holes in top of airbox; SW Motech front fairing guards; Wolfman racks; Wolfman Luggage; JNS Skid plate; foot pegs; heavier rear spring; serviced rear suspension; serviced swing arm; new double sealed rear wheel bearings (rh wheel bearing had grit & wear); serviced speedo drive; voltmeter; Oxford Premium Sports heated grips + controller; upgraded foot peg bolts; oil change; serviced rear brake pedal pivot; serviced clutch & front brake levers; bark busters- Maier Delux Woods Pro 59525 lever guards; hand guards; various bolts replaced; chain & sprockets (16 tooth front), more but don't recall..


I wish he'd had another 1/2 hour to lower the side stand but no time. Also didn't have time to install a steering head grease nipple.

Some observations:
The JNS skid plate will not mount with the Wolfman (SW Motech) front fairing guards. The guards clamp around the frame below the engine which prevents
the skid plate from fitting up against the bottom of the frame as intended. We found it necessary to cut a section from the rear "L" shaped area near each rear corner in order to allow the skid plate to clear the guard clamp and tube.

Faced with the choice of spacing the skid plate down from the frame or cutting the skid plate to pass inside the guard clamp & tubing; we determined that it was better to place the skid plate below the guard clamp rather than to have the guard clamp protruding below the skid plate. The concern if the clamp is sticking down is that the clamp might snag when the skid plate is sliding over a rock.

I'm not happy with the supplier who recommended and sold this combination to my friend as the resolution would have been beyond the capability of many installers.

He also purchased a DLX mount to carry extra fuel but we were unable to install because the universal mounting plate (Pawnee Plate PPK-102) supplied by the vendor was unsuitable for the task. It uses wire conduit clamps which are to be placed around the tubes of the Wolfman rack. Problem is that the clamps cannot be positioned to allow the plate's holes to line up with the clamps. I'd not trust the mounting using those clamps over rough roads but that's personal judgement. I think that system is a disaster looking for an opportunity....

The supplier was trusted because of their claimed knowledge and made recommendations which were....no way to be nice about this.. untrue. The person who made the recommendations did not have the knowledge claimed.

When time allows, my friend will have a plate welded between the tubes of the Wolfman rack on each side which will be a very nice solution to mounting the DLX fuel mount. I'd recommend to Wolfman that they consider a cross plate in the center of the "circle" at the center of their side racks. Can't cover every eventuality and no criticism intended. I was not willing to undertake flux core MIG welding of the plates and time would not have allowed doing so regardless.

I really like both the appearance and construction of the Wolfman/Motech/Backroads Moto fairing guards and racks. I'm not a welder/fabricator by trade so am giving a mechanic's a rider's impression but would absolutely buy these. I'd prefer some sort of mounting rather than the clamp around the frame but don't know what they might do which would be better for a non-welding installation. It would be ideal to avoid the need to have the skid plate spaced below the frame but there are limitations compromises.

Don't like to be grumpy and negative so more apologies if came across that way....
 

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Normk,
I use 'donut holes', hole sawed from old truck tires on a 'Regular' basis to Space the Skid plates Down, about 3/8th" at the rear edge, about a 1/4" just ahead of the oil drain plug. I prefer to use a STANDARD drain plug!

The threads of too MANY after-market 'magnetic' drain plugs, are not FULLY cut.

If one loses/forgets the thick aluminum 'crush' gasket, with some of the AFTER MARKET drain plugs, one can end up with a BROKEN drain plug BOSS.
(swedged APART/CRACKED/DESTROYED/MANGLED/STRIPPED, ie ALL of the above.)

Not so, with factory drain plug, usually seals Oil Tight! But, You Must use a wrench to remove completely, due to slight damage of the 1st Thread! (There's your sign, of Previous ERROR.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for reminding about the aftermarket plug fillet problem, Paul! I'd forgotten about that which is dumb because I've also seen the problem. Memory..... Not to worry though, I'm taking treatments to improve my memory and it's gotten so good that I even remember things which aren't true. :13:

One can grind the head of the standard plug to the same thickness as the thinner after market ones and I like the fit better so have been doing that for a while. The stock plug is easier to angle drill for safety wire also, which reminds me that I'm out of safety wire.. wonder if MIG wire would work? Nope! Not chancing as don't want a piece of that through the rear tire.

Anyone close by need some NDT done for free? A friend has set up an NDT station in his shop and needs some practice stuff.

FWIW, there's a plug with large Allen socket inset which is a transmission inspection plug from an articulated truck which makes a super KLR drain plug. I have some still in my parts bins but don't use because I prefer a wrench/socket but those plugs are even thinner and really nice stuff. Much better, IMO, than some of the after market plugs which use a tiny Allen. I've seen some of those round out the Allen which is really joyful. Stainless drain plug with about 5 mm Allen....why?




Normk,
I use 'donut holes', hole sawed from old truck tires on a 'Regular' basis to Space the Skid plates Down, about 3/8th" at the rear edge, about a 1/4" just ahead of the oil drain plug. I prefer to use a STANDARD drain plug!

The threads of too MANY after-market 'magnetic' drain plugs, are not FULLY cut.

If one loses/forgets the thick aluminum 'crush' gasket, with some of the AFTER MARKET drain plugs, one can end up with a BROKEN drain plug BOSS.
(swedged APART/CRACKED/DESTROYED/MANGLED/STRIPPED, ie ALL of the above.)

Not so, with factory drain plug, usually seals Oil Tight! But, You Must use a wrench to remove completely, due to slight damage of the 1st Thread! (There's your sign, of Previous ERROR.)
 
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