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Discussion Starter #1
I've been riding 2 wheels since I was 10, but now going to look at a lightly used 2009 KLR 650 today! Any points I should look for? I am more familiar with Kawasaki street bikes, Ninja 1000, Concours 1000, GPZ 550, KZ650, ect, but have ridden dirt bikes years ago. Wanting to get out on the logging roads and trails around here.
 

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Ok, Read this thread and give the perspective purchase a good listening to. https://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/67505-noise-valve-cover-area.html
Inquire about its oil consumption or lack thereof.

Read this thread posting and look under the engine at the oil drain pug boss, https://www.klrforum.com/introductions/58921-dpelletiers-common-new-klr-owner-mistakes-avoid.html

Now ask the seller to remove the air filter, confirm that the back-fire screen is Not dusty & the re-usable air filter is Well Oiled.

Inquire as to whether the doo-hickey has ever been adjusted & preferably Up-Graded.

Welcome to the forum & the KLR. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I ended up not getting that 09', but I'm going tomorrow to more than likely buy another. This 2009 has 37k miles, new chain and sprockets, recent tires. It's a little cheap because the owner "lightly" dropped it on a dirt road, so a few scuff marks on the tank and needs lower fairing sections. He already replaced the radiator. States it runs but runs a bit rough, thinks it needs a carb rebuild. Doo hickey has not been done. I will check for the points mentioned in the links that have been posted in this thread.
 

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What kind of money are you looking at for the 09 described? Personally I’m not enthusiastic based on the description. Do you have any pictures? Are you mechanically inclined?

Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing some pictures of a 1955vdub.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ended up buying this '09, needs some work but was, I think, a good deal. Needs radiator fan, cover, lower fairings, res. cover from being dropped. Seat needs recovering, exhaust was missing a couple bolts. Shifter shaft is leaking oil. Rode ok, gears shifted smoothly. I think I saved it just in time from a not-so-thorough owner. At $1100 I don't think I could go wrong.
 

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Ended up buying this '09, needs some work but was, I think, a good deal. Needs radiator fan, cover, lower fairings, res. cover from being dropped. Seat needs recovering, exhaust was missing a couple bolts. Shifter shaft is leaking oil. Rode ok, gears shifted smoothly. I think I saved it just in time from a not-so-thorough owner. At $1100 I don't think I could go wrong.
Nope, for $1100 you definitely can't go wrong. '08 and '09 are know to be oil consumers (burners), so make sure you keep an eye on the oil level. Oil level should be near the top of the slight glass with the bike on level ground and straight up and down, engine off (not on the side stand). You should have no problem finding the parts you need on Fleabay.

I would recommend that you do the doohickey and use Eagle Mike's doohickey including the torsion spring. I would also recommend going through the bike and torquing every bolt you can find to the proper torque. Blue Loctite is your friend. Lastly, ensure the drive chain is properly adjusted (it should touch the lower swingarm at the mid-point when the bike is on the kickstand (Dave, Tom, Paul, please correct me if I'm wrong on that).

Have fun.
John
 

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1955Vdubman, since you have the bike, this link may be significant for your restoration and tuning:

https://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech-guides/19026-carb-overhaul.html

Otherwise, CONGRATULATIONS! You actually BOUGHT a KLR650! (A recent (but mercifully absent of late) poster picked the brains of this forum incessantly, under the pretext he was buying a KLR650, extracting every minute detail he could about the specifications, care and feeding of the machine. He never did, and fortunately, hasn't been heard from in a while.)

Again, glad to have you!
 

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I suggest that the KLR drive chain should be adjusted to be loose enough to lift the lower run of drive chain Up to just Touch the rear Tip of the rubber under-slider.

Check the oil 3 times daily if riding freeway speeds.
Ride Safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The bike also came with Brand New Michelin tires, more like street tires, are rated 80/20 for highway use mainly. Any interest to someone to swap these for of an offroad tire? The center tread still has all the nipples, front and rear! Oil lever was a scary issue when test riding, was VERY low. Hope I didn't damage anything for just the short ride to run it through the gears. BTW, where do I find these Eagle Mike products? Definitely having the doo-hickey done. Already ordered levers, bar tips. Yes, tightening everything.
 

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The bike also came with Brand New Michelin tires, more like street tires, are rated 80/20 for highway use mainly. Any interest to someone to swap these for of an offroad tire? The center tread still has all the nipples, front and rear! Oil lever was a scary issue when test riding, was VERY low. Hope I didn't damage anything for just the short ride to run it through the gears. BTW, where do I find these Eagle Mike products? Definitely having the doo-hickey done. Already ordered levers, bar tips. Yes, tightening everything.
Eagle Mike's KLR products here,

https://www.eaglemike.com/main.sc
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got lucky, I think. Oil was only 1 quart down. Mechanic mentioned that the eyeglass will show empty up to about 2 quarts, then the site glass shows after that. That was a huge relief!
 

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When you do your first oil change, I recommend to keep any crumbs from the oil filter cavity from flowing down the 6:00 Clean oil port in the mouth of the filter cavity, (I use a vinyl nipple from a wet cell battery to temporarily plug that hole.) as I tilt the bike from side stand to RH side, three or four times to thoroughly drain the filter cavity and the L & R engine covers.

Then insert the center pipe from old filter thru new filter and re-install into cavity. Install drain plug with gasket.

Find a way to hold the bike as near perfectly vertical as possible. Add ONLY 2 Quarts of your preferred JASO MA graded oil. Note the oil level. Start the bike and allow to run a minute. Turn it off for 2 - 5 minutes to allow oil to drain out of cylinder head.

Now put a small scribe line at that oil level. This is the .5 quart LOW mark with a FILLED oil filter. Now add that additional .5 quart to your engine. The oil level will usually Completely fill the window, possibly even slightly over. Perfect!
The marking on the engine calls for 2.5 liters, which is a little more yet.

Most people do not realize that the KLR engines can re-drain the oil filter overnight or fairly quickly if fully hot oil and parked 'just-so'. Makes for very confusing oil level discussions.

Oh, and the fresh oil will look "frothy", because its aerated. The tiny air bubbles dissipate quicker from Hot oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Progress being made. Had the doo-hickey done (spring was broken), valves checked (ok), oil/filter changed. I have managed to find all missing lower fairing pieces via Ebay, along with the missing cooling fan, shroud, skid pan, ect. I found a Corbin low riding seat on Craigslist, so that takes care of having to recover the original seat. I'll be re assembling things this weekend, but my first ride AFTER the tuning and new air filter was noticeably different with much more power and torque. All in all, I still have less than $2k into it!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just ordered a set of Shinko 700's. Bike came with new Michelin Avakees, but I'm wanting more of an off road tread. For $100 a set, I thought I'd give 'em a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sure like the look of the Shinkos! Rear tire mounted and on. Was odd, the rear tube was much smaller than it should have been. Front tire shipped separate, will be mounted today. Getting anxious for this weekends first ride.
 

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Better to stretch a narrower tube than to wrinkle an over-sized tube. Wrinkles can eventually chaff thru & leak.
IRC standard inner tube lists to fit 4.00 thru 5.10 - 17 or 110/100 thru 130/80 - 17, and fits well.

But an IRC Heavy Duty tube would be severely wadded-up inside a 4.00 - 17 or 110/100 - 17 tire, inspite of its labling (not good). Possibly even wrinkled inside a 130/80 - 17.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
First actual ride went well. New Shinkos felt good on and off road. Got it up to around 70, felt smooth/stable. Went about 20 miles on gravel roads, noticed front end needs some extra "help". I didn't think it handled the bumps too well, back not as bad, at least for now. I'll need to read up on the threads here for some possible upgrades. I have noticed a fair amount of sag in the front springs. Had to come back to the house a couple times for some adjustments. Wires and cables up front were creaking, drove me nuts.
 

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Well as another classic VW owner im sure you keep a stock of motor oil on hand. The tough part is divide your time between wrenching on the VW or the KLR. lol
 
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