Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1989 KLR650 that will start some times and the next time I try to start it has no spark. It has the neutral and side stand bypassed, and all of the connections cleaned and checked etc. I am guessing it may be the coil or the CDI box, but I am not sure. Does the coil or the CDI box start and stop working? and is there a easy test for ether one? If anybody has had this problem please let me know.
The only other thing wrong with the bike is the neutral light does not work. I have replaced the neutral bulb and the switch and have a signal from the switch to the diode. Could this be a problem with the starting?
Thanks for any help with this problem
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,250 Posts
Raven -

I'm going to guess that you have a ground fault somewhere. The CDI and coil should not be intermittent - they should just fail.

If you can, reverse the clutch and side stand bypasses to see if they are the culprit. If you didn't do them then they may not have been done well and reliably.

Check all of your ground connections to make sure that they are clean and tight. Your neutral light problem seems like a grounding problem.

Inspect the main harness from the front of the bike back to the seat, looking for chafed areas where the wires may be shorting against something.

Does the bike ever stop running after you've started it?

Tom
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,263 Posts
Echoing everything Tom pointed out. I don't know if you are working from a diagram. I find it helpful to get all players on the same page.

http://www.bigcee.com/faq/KLR650-color-wiring-diagram.gif

Clicking on the diagram will enlarge the area you click on.

A recent thread of similar problem

I would have little concern regarding the clutch bypass. The clutch safety acts as a starter interrupt. A malfunction with the clutch safety and you will have no starter engagement.

Side stand safety acts as an ignition interrupt. Problems there will allow the engine to turn over, and will prohibit the bike from firing or starting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Tom for the info, you have been a big help. The bike started missing once when I was riding it, but pushed thru it an kept running. How many grounds are there? To bypass the side stand you just solder the two wire together ? Thanks again Dan
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,250 Posts
Thanks Tom for the info, you have been a big help. The bike started missing once when I was riding it, but pushed thru it an kept running. How many grounds are there? To bypass the side stand you just solder the two wire together ? Thanks again Dan
Dan -

Egad, I'm not sure. There's a ground coming off the battery, one coming off the starter, a frame ground lead that is on the upper coil mount bolt, an engine ground lead...

Pull the tank off so you can see a lot of stuff. Start looking for wiring harness terminals. Loosen and then tighten every one that you can see, especially the ones associated with the coil. Grounds, positives, it don't matter. If it looks electrical, tighten and loosen it.

Oh, and this may be silly, but remove and firmly replace the coil lead to the spark plug - make sure that sucker is really clipped in.

Fixing intermittent problems is a real PITA, so you have to use the shotgun approach. Down side is that once you've fixed it you may not know what was wrong :).

And yes, the side stand bypass is done by shorting the two main harness wires together.

Hope you get it solved!

Tom
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,250 Posts
Look for wires and connectors like in this picture:



That black and yellow wire at the upper coil mounting bolt is a ground wire. Make sure wires like this are not broken, then loosen and tighten the connection to make sure it is secure.

Unplug and re-plug connectors like the one in the picture, again to make sure they are making good connections. A bit of dielectric grease in the connector is a good bit of preventative care.

This may be your suspect area, as it is the coil and regulator. Do the same for the Igniter module.

Tom
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,263 Posts
After a little thought.....

You have a known neutral light issue....indicating possible ground problem...

Neutral safety is tied to both starter AND ignition, and if not properly grounded, COULD interrupt flow to CDI....

So...

I would start...

With the diode pack that is under the tank, up near the steering head.



This will eliminate switch shorts, goblins, etc. If this gets you spark, you can rig a permanent ground to the frame or to the battery.

If this does not bring joy, I would focus on coil...

And I know of no good way to test the CDI or any other electronic component on a KLR 650. They may read "OK", but when replaced, you get spark. Or not. YMMV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Tom, thanks again for all of your help. I will let you know how it all turns out. I sure have learned a bunch about the KLR, but I still think it is an excellent around bike. Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Vatrader, I will check the diode for the ground etc. For some reason I keep thinking the neural light problem has something to do with the no spark . A big thanks to you, Tom and everybody that has helped, I will let you know what the problem was when I get it running again. Dan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,263 Posts
Vatrader, I will check the diode for the ground etc. For some reason I keep thinking the neural light problem has something to do with the no spark . A big thanks to you, Tom and everybody that has helped, I will let you know what the problem was when I get it running again. Dan
I'm not sure what you will find for ground at that diode pack. If you bare some of that red / black wire running from the diode pack to the CDI, run a jumper to the negative battery terminal, you bypass all safeties. A diagnostic technic for hillbillies. The only CDI check I know of is to swap out a CDI from a running KLR 650.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top