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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
To share the information. And ask.

My 2016KLR with 17,000 miles traveled was what lasted the speedometer cable. It broke inside and the terminal part that connects with the hub of the wheel separated from the internal cable and I am changing it. The use that I give to the bike is mostly on the road I would say 90%. I changed two front tires during that period. I ask.
1. Is the duration of this part normal or is there something I have done wrong?
2. Is it possible that during the change of tires something has been mishandled? The last change was at March 2018 14,000 miles on the odometer.
3. What I did notice before and say thousands of miles before is that the needle of the speedometer vibrated. Is this a sign that you are lacking maintenance or that the part is about to fail?
I never gave lubrication maintenance to the hub or the cable
 

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Speedometer cable maintenance

I suggest you look at gear box on wheel hub. Clean, and re-pack with grease.
The cable itself may have had no lubricant, and why it failed.
It could have been inserted into the wheel gear box incorrectly.

When I work on my front wheel, I carefully insert the cable core into the gearbox, and slowly rotate wheel while watching core rotate. Then I push outer part of cable down to lock it.

To make final check, I spin front wheel as fast as I can watching speedometer to see if it moves. ( Usually slight movement, as I can only spin wheel so fast.)
 
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Sorry I'm a little late to the party.

DO NOT Wash the grease out of the speedometer drive gearbox assembly! One Can NOT properly re-lubricate the pinion gear shaft, which operates near the top!

Dicky, I like to rotate the cable attachment on the speedo drive rearward of the 11:00 factory position to the 9:00 position. This eliminates the stupid lazy S curve from the cable which becomes a tighter kinked S as the front suspension compresses.

If one removes the inner flexible shaft from the cable housing, and squirts a little oil or WD40 or other lubricant into the cable housing then re-insert the flex shaft, it will lubricate the entire length of the flexible cable. This can easily be done at anytime or when changing tires.
 

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Mine broke at 4500 miles but I think it's because of the shop. I noticed that the cable didn't follow the guides up to the dial and was bent funny.
 

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Dicky, I like to rotate the cable attachment on the speedo drive rearward of the 11:00 factory position to the 9:00 position. This eliminates the stupid lazy S curve from the cable which becomes a tighter kinked S as the front suspension compresses.
Interesting modification.

On Gen IIs, the speedometer gearbox is mechanically indexed to the 11:00 o'clock position via a tab and slot arrangement on the lower fork leg. So in order to change the gearbox orientation, you would have to grind off the tab. I assume this is what you did?

Best,

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dicky, I like to rotate the cable attachment on the speedo drive rearward of the 11:00 factory position to the 9:00 position. This eliminates the stupid lazy S curve from the cable which becomes a tighter kinked S as the front suspension compresses.

If one removes the inner flexible shaft from the cable housing, and squirts a little oil or WD40 or other lubricant into the cable housing then re-insert the flex shaft, it will lubricate the entire length of the flexible cable. This can easily be done at anytime or when changing tires.
I already installed the cable. Do not perform any lubrication in the hub, I will do it when I change the tire. The new cable lubricate it as you said.
Regarding the change of position from 11 to 9. I did not really understand how it would be done. I have read the question of Norton 850, is there the matter?
 

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No Need to grind anything.

The factory indexing tab on the speedometer gear box fits very Nicely/Perfectly Behind the fork leg tab. The first time I saw this alignment was on a travelers/tourist bike, which we were discussing excessive vibration, doo-hickey adjustment or replacement, poor fuel mileage & overly tight drive chain tension.

The tourist suggested that his local shop in Colorado had apparently assembled it that way by accident when replacing tires, like his overly Tight drive chain. I readjusted his drive chain to the looser side (like I've recommended many times to many people). Adjusted his engine balancer DooHickey. I also aired up his tires, to my many times suggested PSI's (for his load).

But I decided right then and there that this 9:00 position would be kinder to the Gen 2 speedometer cables. After my second test ride & his short road test also, he headed North.


About a week later, this same tourist stopped back by to say thank you, for a smoother ride, crisper handling & nearly 10 extra mpg. The westward detour back to my shop added about 100 extra miles to his day, but he was that appreciative of the great and simple improvements.
And I had learned a new trick by accident!
 
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The speedo cable on my 08 broke near the hub with very low mileage. When I pulled the cable out there was almost no lube on it, and what was on it looked kind of dried out. I lubed the heck out of the replacement cable and never had another problem with it.
 
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