I can tell you that with the stock 15 tooth you're sitting at about 5K rpm at like 60-65 mph (on the speedo, not the GPS) in 5th gear. The 16 tooth relocates 5K rpm to something like 75. The bike runs really nicely in the 4.5-5K range, and it rides well/feels safe at like 67-75. I tend to cruise just under 70, with the RPMs at like 4500. If I were not doing mostly highway riding I'd be back on the 15 because it's much nicer for everything other than cruising. For highway though, imho the 16 is the sweet spot. I wouldn't consider the 17, especially knowing that I'd have to modify the sprocket cover, because it would be at like 4K at 70 mph, I'm guessing, which doesn't seem optimal. But if you want to ride at 80 or 85 (what suspension and brakes are you running?) it's probably helpful.
Sprockets??? 16 17
Hey all. I was thinking of switching too a 17 tooth front sprocket with the prevailing torque nut so that the highway travels are smoother. Id be running 17/43 with the stock rear sprocket. I was wondering what the pros and cons are to running this configuration. I know that the sprocket cover needs to be modified to accommodate the 17 but what about the 16? Is there a big enough difference between the two or should I go with the easier one? THanks so much!
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Check out gearingcommander dot com for all kinds of data on effects of sprocket changes.
I'll have to check the sprocket I'm running now because at 70 it's at about 4600 4700 maybe, so I might have bought it with with a 16. If I hit about 80 it's just pushing 5000. I'm running stock brakes and suspension right now but I have upgrades line up this winter when work picks up.
This is in line with what I get, so it sounds like you've got the 16. I'll mention that if you're at 4600 at 70, you're also at 5257 at 80 (it's linear: 70/4600 = 80/x --> x = 80[4600]/70 = 5257). Definitely look into those upgrades and hey, take it easy ~~
I'll double check after work today and update. Hopefully the 16 is already there and I'll save some money. I'll be surprised if it turns out to be the 15
I love the 17 front. I have had it on for well over 11,000 miles.
Without splitting hairs, the speedo is off to the high about 4mph. There is prose and cons to most things. At 4,000rpms the speed is 65ish on the speedo, so its about 62 in real time. At 5,000rpm its about 80ish speedo so its about 75ish in real time. It seems to love 4 and 5,000. With the wind vs against, the rpms at said same number, seem to be a couple more mph higher with.
Now, the other day with a 22-25mph, dead head wind, with me, 5;11, jacket, full helmet large metal paniers, crash bars on front, I had to mostly keep it pegged/wide open, to keep 65mph.
I have the stock 15 and an unopened 14. I do highway and gravel/back roads, I don't do off road , but have the 14 if need to.
Without splitting hairs, the speedo is off to the high about 4mph. There is prose and cons to most things. At 4,000rpms the speed is 65ish on the speedo, so its about 62 in real time. At 5,000rpm its about 80ish speedo so its about 75ish in real time. It seems to love 4 and 5,000. With the wind vs against, the rpms at said same number, seem to be a couple more mph higher with.
Now, the other day with a 22-25mph, dead head wind, with me, 5;11, jacket, full helmet large metal paniers, crash bars on front, I had to mostly keep it pegged/wide open, to keep 65mph.
I have the stock 15 and an unopened 14. I do highway and gravel/back roads, I don't do off road , but have the 14 if need to.
lineman, you should have down-shifted into 4th with that headwind, then you could have eased up on the throttle opening.
Using a digital tach, I've found that the tachometers also tend to read higher than actual numbers.
If I was to install a 16 or a 17 tooth front sprocket on a KLR with new enough / flexible enough alternator & ignition wires to be re-routed, I would remove the Green neutral wire from the bundle and route them straight up from the engine grommet. Then the neutral wire can stay routed in the protective channel of the engine case.
It is pretty easy to modify the plastic sprocket cover to allow the wires to go straight up and really reduces the possibility of chain & sprocket & gravel damage to those wires.
I've never understood why so many brands & models of bikes have those wires so directly in harms way!
Using a digital tach, I've found that the tachometers also tend to read higher than actual numbers.
If I was to install a 16 or a 17 tooth front sprocket on a KLR with new enough / flexible enough alternator & ignition wires to be re-routed, I would remove the Green neutral wire from the bundle and route them straight up from the engine grommet. Then the neutral wire can stay routed in the protective channel of the engine case.
It is pretty easy to modify the plastic sprocket cover to allow the wires to go straight up and really reduces the possibility of chain & sprocket & gravel damage to those wires.
I've never understood why so many brands & models of bikes have those wires so directly in harms way!
It is on my to do list ass the doo, to relocate the wires, so far no problems driving it like I stole it on the highway. Yep with the taller front sprocket I could always drop a gear, but , ,,,, for some reason I am pig headed to not. and just hold, her wide open and burn gas.lineman, you should have down-shifted into 4th with that headwind, then you could have eased up on the throttle opening.
Using a digital tach, I've found that the tachometers also tend to read higher than actual numbers.
If I was to install a 16 or a 17 tooth front sprocket on a KLR with new enough / flexible enough alternator & ignition wires to be re-routed, I would remove the Green neutral wire from the bundle and route them straight up from the engine grommet. Then the neutral wire can stay routed in the protective channel of the engine case.
It is pretty easy to modify the plastic sprocket cover to allow the wires to go straight up and really reduces the possibility of chain & sprocket & gravel damage to those wires.
I've never understood why so many brands & models of bikes have those wires so directly in harms way!
So if I were to just go up to the 16, would I need to modify the cover and reroute the wires? Also, I am running the stock 15. I took it for a test and at 70 (speedo) the tach read at 4600 4700.
No.So if I were to just go up to the 16, would I need to modify the cover and reroute the wires?
What do you have on the rear?So if I were to just go up to the 16, would I need to modify the cover and reroute the wires? Also, I am running the stock 15. I took it for a test and at 70 (speedo) the tach read at 4600 4700.
does anyone know if there is a 41tooth rear sprocket, i have a 2022 klr650? i cant seem to find one, thanks in advance.
JT Sprockets does not list any yet for 22 c/shaft or rear. But assuming rear is same as gen1-2 only 38 and 42 are available no 41 listed. Sprocket Specialists probably can make one-if you want it in aluminum.
A 41 is not being produced because it is irrelevant.
14/41 is the same as 15/44.
15/41 is the same as 16/43.
16/41 is right between 17/43 and 17/44.
17/41 is 814 rpm below the OEM 15/43 at 75 mph which the motor will probably be too weak to pull properly with a 16% torque loss.
14/41 is the same as 15/44.
15/41 is the same as 16/43.
16/41 is right between 17/43 and 17/44.
17/41 is 814 rpm below the OEM 15/43 at 75 mph which the motor will probably be too weak to pull properly with a 16% torque loss.
I've run a 17 tooth front for the last 155,000 miles. Love it. As pdwestman noted, in those rare occasions where 5th is too tall (big headwind, long hill) you just use 4th gear. Simple to do.
i have been running 16-38 just switched to 15-37. if it quits raining out here i will check it out. 
only 39,000 miles just a rookie...
ls
only 39,000 miles just a rookie...ls
Are you running this off pavement? You must ride really fast. I just installed 16 with 43, really like it for highway. Feels like I am puttering at highway speed now, I even forgot that I am still on 4th vs 15/43 where I kept trying to shift up.I've run a 17 tooth front for the last 155,000 miles. Love it. As pdwestman noted, in those rare occasions where 5th is too tall (big headwind, long hill) you just use 4th gear. Simple to do.
You might get used to it, and even want more. To answer your question, I don't ride really fast, I'm VERY rarely over 65 actual (70 indicated)... say, 50 miles a year or less. Yes, I use the 17 tooth off road on the various trails, but if the ride is going to be tight a 14 tooth front goes on, or I use a 280 pound bike instead of a 400 pound bike. I'm getting too old to wrestle the pig around in the tight stuff.Are you running this off pavement? You must ride really fast. I just installed 16 with 43, really like it for highway. Feels like I am puttering at highway speed now, I even forgot that I am still on 4th vs 15/43 where I kept trying to shift up.
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