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Discussion Starter #1
:surprise: I put new sprockets and chain I put 15 front as what is called for 43 rear know I notice I have engine lug?
other was 14/43
another question how much play should be in rear sprocket side to side ?
could this be causing my vibration I have gone over whole bike did check doohickey did adjust nothing sounds out of regular
bike starts runs has power don't know
:nerd:
maybe it's just me I had a back tire go flat and bike was out of control some how I was able to keep bike up and die bike had mind of it's own was going into on coming traffic but that's another story so since then every thing is what's that to me
thank you
for any info:nerd:
 

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Wouldn't hurt to adjust your balancer chain tension, IMHO (that is, loosen and then tighten "doohickey" hold-down bolt).
 

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When I change gearing I just have to get used to the new ratios. Upshift later, downshift sooner, and when putting along in 1st-gear, either put along faster or -- if it's a tricky trail -- slip the clutch a little.

The sprocket should have zero side-to-side play on the countershaft. The chain on the sprocket should have a little play although not much.

It's a little hard to parse what you're writing with no punctuation, no capitals, and several subjects mixed together. You may get answers faster if you type slower.
 

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that was done ?
Silly me:

"I have gone over whole bike did check doohickey did adjust nothing"

I interpreted the phrase, "did adjust nothing," incorrectly. As Grinnin says above, some correct grammar, capitalization, and punctuation may have lessened my probability of error.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sorry about that
my mind works faster than my fingers and eyes
front sprocket is tight back has some movement
I did turn bolt 1/2 turn on doohickey

yeah I understand about new gearing will keep that in mind
:nerd:
 

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:surprise: I put new sprockets and chain I put 15 front as what is called for 43 rear know I notice I have engine lug?
other was 14/43
another question how much play should be in rear sprocket side to side ?
could this be causing my vibration I have gone over whole bike did check doohickey did adjust nothing sounds out of regular
bike starts runs has power don't know
:nerd:
maybe it's just me I had a back tire go flat and bike was out of control some how I was able to keep bike up and die bike had mind of it's own was going into on coming traffic but that's another story so since then every thing is what's that to me
thank you
for any info:nerd:
cchuckie51,
The rear sprocket Carrier will have some movement. But, I'd like for you to verbally or better yet Physically confirm for us, the there are TWO (2) spacers in the Carrier Bearing. 1 on the Outside and 1 on the Inside.
Lots of people accidently loose the 1 from the Inside, it sets the clearance between the carrier bearing and the LH wheel bearing! And then when the axle nut is tightened the bearings are side-loaded.

Secondly,
The bottom run of the drive chain must have Enough 'Slack', to allow it to be lifted up and touch or almost touch the rear tip of the rubber slider under the swing arm. Too Tight of chain adjustment adds Lots of Vibes, cuts fuel mileage and wears-out chain and sprockets two to three times as fast as proper adjustment.
 

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..........
I did turn bolt 1/2 turn on doohickey..............
Just tightening the adjuster bolt does not adjust the doohickey. You need to loosen the adjuster bolt about one and one half turns to allow the internal spring to tighten the doohickey and then re-tighten the adjuster bolt. The bolt just holds the doohickey in place once the internal spring has pulled it tight. Do not over tighten the adjuster bolt. Snug is good enough.

The rear sprocket should not have any side to side play. a little forwards and backwards play is ok due to the rubber cush drive inside the sprocket carrier.

Check for that spacer that pdwestman asked about above.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
both are there inside one and out side
from bottom of chain pushing up to check play is almost 2"
I am thinking that my damper might be loose I ordered new one and gaskets to pull covers to check doohickey
thanks for all info:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
from what I have read on doohickey when they are done as meaning new put in
not to turn bolt open more than 1/2 turn ?
 

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cchuckie51,
1/2 turn or 2 and a 1/2 turns loosened on the balancer chain adjuster (doo-hickey) bolt, doesn't matter. There is about 6-8 threads in the hole, so don't totally un-thread it.

What Does matter is, DO Not overtighten it and 'crimp' a stock doo-hickey or strip the threads from the engine case.
 

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The recommendation not to loosen the doohickey lock bolt more than 1/2 turn was conjecture regarding a potential problem for the very early doohickeys. The idea was that the doohickey might slide outward and then bind on the shaft when the bolt was tightened. It was further supposed that the doohickey might be bent/deformed in the process.

From what I recall and have been able to discover, the originator of the practice was one who was absolutely convinced of his infallibility and gained a devoted following. He has been shown to be wrong in other regards and, regardless, being correct about "A" does nothing to support a conclusion about "B". Each point must stand or fall on its own merit.

If one consults people with training and experience in the field, my observation is that this is one of those, "May as well take the precaution since there's no real downside to doing so." issues.

I tend to back the lock bolt out at least one full turn because I am not convinced that 1/2 turn is enough, especially for the stamped steel doohickeys. You may wish to consider this while experimenting with some while the side cover is off. Just my $0.02.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I when I got bike I was told doohickey was done don't know which brand
but as I have read and seen on you tube is to loosen bolt 1/2 turn after engine is hot and then tighten snug if you don't have a torque wrench
and that Is what I did
 

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Discussion Starter #15
wow nicely written don't expect that from me
so let see 1 full turn not 1/2
ok
well thank you for that info :nerd:
 

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I forgot to mention: tap the head of the lock bolt while it's loose as that can help the doohickey to start moving. Next time you have a cover off, try backing the lock bolt to increasing degrees and tap the head each time. You will see the effect. The doo can be pushed back and tried again at various points although I find the first one is usually the one which requires backing off the furthest.

Being retired allows one to play with these silly things. :)
 

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Damper? Don't know an involved part by this name; please explain further; thanks!

+ 1 on GoMotor's comment about adjusting balancer chain tension. Half a turn tightening (without previous loosening) may distort/damage doohickey, IMHO; proximate cause of catastrophic collateral damage in many Generation 1 incidents, again, IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
it sits inside rear wheel or hub if you like that better it's rubber maybe I am calling by some thing else but I hope that answers your question
 

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it sits inside rear wheel or hub if you like that better it's rubber maybe I am calling by some thing else but I hope that answers your question
You are quite correct, cchuckie51, and I betray my own ignorance: Kawasaki parts list indeed calls the component, "DAMPER,RR HUB,SHOCK."

My rowdy friends call the part, a "cush drive."

Regardless, can't see how that part is of any consequence regarding a "loose" rear wheel (side-to-side), or vibration-inducing. Some fore-and-aft rotational slack may be traced to a worn-out cush drive or damper, but not side-to-side, as far as I can see.

Yet, maybe so. Let us know how things work out with the new part; good luck.
 
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