How did it run before the exhaust change?
Did you change the mixture?
Has the intake been opened up to match the improved exhaust flow?
How many discs are ya running?
Full flow or restrictive baffle core?
Is this only in 2nd gear?
My Cheapguy shot-in-the-dark guesstimate is too much gas. Whacking the throttle
is probably (maybe) making the accelerator pump dump fuel into the system. Too
high of a float level will exaggerate this problem.
Carb mods been done? If the slider is drilled, or a spring coil cutoff for quicker
throttle response, it's snapping open too soon. If there's a massive jet kit in
there, it's flooding temporarily. Slowly opening the throttle is letting the engine
"keep up" with the extra fuel delivery. If your mileage is terrible, too much
gas could be it. Is the petcock screen clogged with rust and crud? The
engine may be starving for fuel when ya hit the go cable. That would possibly
go along with too low of a fuel level in the bowl. In which case the problem is
Anyway, that's just rambling. Tell us ALL the symptoms and history on the scooter
that you know of. The age of the bike, etc.
Some of the better than me guys can get'cha rollin' strong.
Thanks for the replies. I bought the bike used, with the exhaust already on; so I know know nothing about the number of disc. It is the non-racing version. The bike is a 2006 with 9k miles. It only has this problem in 2nd gear. Great appreciate an help, Monty
The theory of running too rich makes sense. Is this an adjustment I can make? I do not want to delve into it without knowing if I am 'opening a can of worms,' but if not, I am looking to tinker with it myself.
Might halfta open the bike to see what's been done and not. Read the jet #'s,
intake mods on the airbox, etc.
I confused on the 2nd gear only part. Do you ease first to get rolling then hammer it?
It should be repeatable in all gears. That's a weird one.
No problems passing on the open road when ya "hit it"?
Yes, Monty, you can adjust nearly anything on a KLR.
Get a service manual. It will pay for itself first time you use it in
saved labor costs, plus be learning your machine literally better
than the guys at the stealership.
Currently the air, fuel, and spark required for good running is off kilter
somewhere. We gotta figure out if the ignition is iffy or you are dumping fuel
into the cylinder (or none).
Do you have the original exhaust to run for a day to see if it's a pressure issue?
Q fer the techs: Is there any way the neutral switch or kickstand switch
is shorting while in 2nd? Didn't think so, but I haven't been learning all the KLR
quirks very long. I'm still a student on these too Mont.
This problem appears only in 2nd gear. Having <mastered> the Unintentional Weelie, I usually start from 2nd. The immediate throttle response fine, followed a split-second later by reduced RPM/propensity to stall. Mark's analysis appears precisely correct: Imagine in a great thirst, you gulp a Gatorade faster than you can swallow; you either slow down or choke. I have not been able to find a manual, Clymer's or other. Could someone please describe how to adjust the mixture.
As an aside, I fly RC airplanes with four-stroke engines. I am used to the dynamics of adjusting the mixture, but have no experience with tuning my recently purchased KLR. Thank you, Monty
It sounds like the slide is opening too fast and giving you a temporary Rich mixture. There isn't an adjustment for this "on the throttle" mixture, only a screw for the idle mixture. I think it's time to get intimate with the guts of your carb. As a betting man, I would guess the PO put a jet kit in it with the pipe and probably never got it sorted out (seen that before). Maybe you can call the PO and ask?
Good Luck, this doesn't seem to be a huge problem,
This problem appears only in 2nd gear. Having <mastered> the Unintentional Weelie, I usually start from 2nd. The immediate throttle response fine, followed a split-second later by reduced RPM/propensity to stall.
Yes, I am taking off from a dead start in 2nd, while gradually fading out the clutch. My previous bike was a street Kawasaki 450. It having no potential for wheelies, there was no reason avoid 1st. Is what I am doing now that unorthodox?? Candor, please. Thanks, Monty
1)The previous owner changed the gearing (lower) on your bike. Quite a bit lower, perhaps, if it wheelies and easily starts up in second. KLRs are not known for doing either as, a) they have no power and b) they have a pretty high first gear.
2)You've been bamboozled by the previous owner, who has sold you some sort of rooster KTM 990 in KLR clothing...
Why would you want to start in 2nd gear? Do you have a tall front sproket as well? I'd like to know how many teeth are on your front and rear sprockets, my bike has stock gearing and takes off just fine in 1st, and no wheelies at all, haven't got that far yet ;-)
Took bike to mechanic. Turns out the stalling in second gear had something to do with the electrical system/safety switches. I have yet to speak to the particular mechanic involved, but the manager said that the PO had bypassed one or more of the safety circuits, such that the unusual degree to which I was modulating the clutch and throttle when starting in 2nd, would often exacerbate a short, and turn the engine off. Either way, the propensity to strand me in the middle of an intersection appears gone. Monty
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