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Discussion Starter #1
Started to have starting issues, need help to determine what the problem is. It turns the engine a bit then freewheels. I have my 2008 KLR open to do the doohikey and fix the deep hole. Could it be simple as low battery? I can't test it now that it is open. But if I need to change the starter clutch, now would be a good time. Do you guys think it is the starter clutch? I took it out and there is no apparent damage to any of the parts. the starter gear turns in only one direction as it is supposed to.
 

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Learned something new.

How does this part or system work in principle? I didn't look too closely when doing the doo, but I did not know this
 

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Learned something new.

How does this part or system work in principle? I didn't look too closely when doing the doo, but I did not know this
Basically one gear is Only Pressed onto the shaft of the other gear. X amount of interference fit.
So if too much Torque is applied, it slips.

The starter torque limiter gear, starter sprag clutch and the transmission clutch are the main reasons to Not Use automotive engine oils with super slippery additives.

Look for the JASO MA or MA2 on the back labels.
My preferred engine oil is Genuine Kawasaki 10W40 petroleum Motorcycle oil. part# K61021-202A.

And I have the laboratory results to show why.
Read here, http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/38962-laboratory-oil-analysis-thread.html
 
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Could this by chance also have something to do with the gear being able to slid too far in the cover or case? I don't remember which. But I remember a test from somewhere to determined if there was too much movement due to wrong size stop or no stop on the upper gear if I remember right.
If you can't figure out what I'm talking about, I won't be offended. I'm used to it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think you are referring to the deep hole issue found on 2008 and some 2009's. I have addressed that issue on my bike, so it's something else. Thanks for the suggestion!


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Discussion Starter #7
My suggestion is that the 'back-fire' torque limiter has slipped too many times. And now slips on the compression stroke of the engine during cold cranking.



Replace it!


When the starter freewheel, all the starter gears, including the big one, spin and the rotor doesn't. From this, I deduct it is the one way clutch. I assume if it was the torque limiter, the largest starter great would not turn?


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Started to have starting issues, need help to determine what the problem is. It turns the engine a bit then freewheels. Do you guys think it is the starter clutch? I took it out and there is no apparent damage to any of the parts.

the starter gear turns in only one direction as it is supposed to.
Squevill,
I answered to the best of my knowledge and experience from the info provided.
It could easily be Both! I've seen it on ATV's.
Of course one can Not Actually "see-it"! You have got to put the cover back ON to support the gear shafts to 'Try It'!

Squidly,
The 'Deep Hole' problem is on the Second set of Gears of the starter reduction system. The set with the Coarser Teeth.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Squevill,

I answered to the best of my knowledge and experience from the info provided.

It could easily be Both! I've seen it on ATV's.

Of course one can Not Actually "see-it"! You have got to put the cover back ON to support the gear shafts to 'Try It'!



Squidly,

The 'Deep Hole' problem is on the Second set of Gears of the starter reduction system. The set with the Coarser Teeth.


Well, I ran the starter without the cover while supporting both sets of gears. Probably not the best idea but was able to see what was going on.


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Well, I ran the starter without the cover while supporting both sets of gears. Probably not the best idea but was able to see what was going on.


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I wouldn't recommend for anyone else to try that!

Your lucky that the gears didn't jam and cause major expense. And that you didn't loose a finger or two!
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Quick update... I installed a new one-way starter clutch and she starts fine now. While I was at it, I installed the EM doohickey with the torsion spring and the spacer to address the deep hole issue (it's a 2008). I also put it a new rotor bolt that came with the EM doohickey kit. I was able to re-use the existing gaskets as they were in good shape. No leak after initial road test.

The original tensionner was in the bike with the tension spring and there was zero tension in it... glad I put in the torsion spring. After more than 41,000 miles on it, I was surprised the doohickey was not done by the PO.

I also took advantage of the downtime to take the carb out, give it a good cleaning and rebuilt with an All Balls rebuild kit. I discovered that the 22 cent mode had been done on this bike, which makes sense since it has the 685 bore kit according to the PO. I purchased the bike this summer with just about 41,000 miles on the odometer.

Broom Hilda is ready for her next adventure :)
 

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I think you will be surprised and pleased when it is running again. It should be a little quieter due to the reduced noise of a properly tensioned balancer chain and the new lighter piston will reduce vibration.
 

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Quick update... I installed a new one-way starter clutch and she starts fine now.

Broom Hilda is ready for her next adventure :)
Squevill,
So you only replaced the internal Sprag mechanism.

And reused the Outer race and the Internal race/Ring gear. Usually those have quite a bit of 'chatter' marks on them from the slip and re-grip of a slipping sprag.

We all hope for a 100,000 more happy miles. :)
Thanks for the update.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I replaced part #13194. Everything else has not apparent damage and looked very good to me... although I did not have a "perfect" part to compare it with. There were not groves or traces of slippage, very smooth surfaces all around.

CLUTCH-ONEWAY Part # 13194-1089

Thanks for your advice.
 
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