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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
My bike won't start and basically sounds like this klr in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JlO0HK7uLg&feature=youtu.be

Please cut and paste since I haven't posted enough to post url's yet. Sorry about that.

Just got my battery back from autozone for a recharge, just in case and the problem is still there. Was wondering what others thought it could be before I tore it down and checked fuses and wires and whatnot. Comments on the vid say it could be the relay. Does that sound right?

Thanks
 

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It sounds like a dead battery, even though you've had it charged. Was the battery load tested?

Remove the spark plug, remove the plastic plug in the left side case, and see if you can turn it over by hand. This is just to make sure that it is not seized or hydrolocked.

Turn it through a few revolutions to make sure it is free.

Try the starter with no spark plug in and see what happens.

Let the battery rest for an hour and check the terminal voltage and report back.

Damocles and Norm may be along shortly with some better ideas for electrical diagnosis.

Tom
 

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The author of the video said his problem was a bad battery. Do you have another battery you could try?

I know that you canNOT jumpstart a bike in the same fashion as a car as the charging system for a car put out too much voltage and can damage the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thx. I think it might be the battery. I just checked it and it has less voltage than when I brought it in to AuTOZ. Either they didn't charge it or it's a bad battery. Have it on my charger now and will reply when I test it again. Thx all.
 

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The author of the video said his problem was a bad battery. Do you have another battery you could try?

I know that you canNOT jumpstart a bike in the same fashion as a car as the charging system for a car put out too much voltage and can damage the bike.
Nah.

Nominal 12 VDC is, well, nominal 12 VDC, kyxon!

My suggestion: Jump your battery to a known hot automobile battery and give 'er a try.

If the engine turns over (and, one hopes, starts) when jumped, but will not otherwise . . . the probable proximate cause of the problem is an inadequate on-board battery.

Some will say, "Don't RUN an automobile engine when jumping a motorcycle," this caution may have some validity--the automobile's voltage regulator may not attenuate the voltage to safe levels for the motorcycle electrics--slim possibility this is so, IMHO, but . . . a possibility.

A fully-charged automobile battery alone cannot damage a functional motorcycle's electric circuitry, any more than a fully-charged motorcycle battery can, IMHO.

Evidence supporting my case: The "World's Smallest Jump Starter" literature says this itty-bitty battery can jump ANY vehicle, from moped to full-sized automobile, without qualification. Check it out on Google (I have one, from Cycle Gear, on sale!); it's jumped three KLR650s and a Taurus V-6; told not to use on Diesel engines, but . . . I may try it out on a Cummins, in the interest of science! :)

BOTTOM LINE: Jump your bike with a known hot automobile battery; you will immediately find out, definitely, whether your problem is an inadequate on-board battery. "Bad" batteries sometimes hold a voltage charge, but one or more cells may break down under load. A casual voltage check may not disclose this concealed flaw.
 

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On a side note, I read the other day about a car-jumped motorcycle battery that exploded and killed a man. It was charged with murder.
 

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He must have had the kill switch on.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thx all. Turns out it was the battery. I put mine on my trickle charger over night and the bike fired right up. Gonna ride her over to AutoZone and tell management about the a_hole who lied about charging my battery. Can't believe some people.
 

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Thx all. Turns out it was the battery. I put mine on my trickle charger over night and the bike fired right up. Gonna ride her over to AutoZone and tell management about the a_hole who lied about charging my battery. Can't believe some people.
Your attitude, and your conclusion, seem to me somewhat judgmental, unless you have more facts than you disclose, leftside.

You might approach AutoZone to find out what happened, but pre-emptively alleging they lied to you about charging your battery seems presumptive, to me.

Consider your motivation and purpose, and the effect of accusing AutoZone of lying to you and defrauding you the fee they charged. Do you expect a refund? Compensation for your inconvenience, loss of time, and transportation expenses for approaching the firm in good faith to perform the service?

Regardless, I think your complaint will be better served if you accumulate pertinent and unassailable facts before you accuse AutoZone of theft-by-fraud and lying.

That said, glad you got your bike running! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, like most places, they didn't charge me anything. However, the owoman who helped me seemed annoyed with helping me when I dropped the battery off. Also, when I picked it up, she said she just took it off the charger so if it didn't work the battery must be bad.

I've seen and used those charging stations they have. It will tell you if it's charged or if there was a problem along with other issues.

I spoke to the manager and I told him, either the station is bad, the lady didn't know what she was doing or I was lied to. I personally believe it's the last option because of her attitude and the fact that she kept hinting that my battery was bad. I guess trying to sell me a new one maybe? All I know is she called my battery a pos, which got unde my skin for several reasons. So eff AutoZone and their perpetual crappy service. PBY and AAP are waaay better.

Thanks for the concern tho.
 

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leftside,
I just recently 'resurrected' from the DEAD, a battery which tested as, 'Bad/Replace' by a Yuasa tester, it was almost dry of fluid, for about 6 months, at least.
I added distilled water to upper level.
I connected it to a new generation 'Smart Charger', Optimate 4, with de-sulfate mode/save mode.
I charged it on the Optimate 4, til the lights told me by code, BAD/Replace!
Tested it on the Yuasa Tester, 40% Healthy / 27% Charged, Bad/Replace!
I connected it to a H4 60 watt headlight bulb, ran it til dim.

Connected the battery to an Old Fashioned 1 amp trickle charger.
Charged til 14.5 volts while on charger. Disconnected, let set 1hr.
Tested on Yuasa tester, 85% Healthy / 100% Charged, Good 12.65 volts.
Reconnect to OLD Fashioned charger and repeat 3 times.

Currently, said battery is at, 83% Healthy / 100% Charged, 12.78 volts.
Battery has been off of the charger since 8:30 AM, this morning!
Time required, 4 days!

AutoZone, figures that you don't want to waste 24 hours, much less 4 days.
They may not even have an OLD Fashioned 1amp Charger.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've disliked AutoZone for years. Almost every single one I've been to had terrible customer service. I even had a worker tell me I had to reach around to grab my own receipt. I changed that attitude in the parking lot.

When I drop a battery off and you say, "I wish I had the small clamps for these pieces of shit." Well that just sets a tone doesn't it?

I'm just glad there is an AAP across the street.

Oh, and when I pick up a battery fresh off a charger and it has less volts than when I dropped it off. That tells me something is wrong, and it's most likely not the equipment. I've been bringing batteries to these shops for years and I have never had an experience like this, but then again I usually don't deal with AutoZone.
 

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I never mess with the employees in any auto parts store around here. Whether male or female, they all look like amateur cage fighters working for money to buy meth and those 3-gallon jugs of whey protein powder at Walmart.
 

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Maybe I come a little late to the party, bearing this, but . . . a wise man once said, "Never attribute to malice that which can be explained by incompetence."

Just sayin' . . . :)
 
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