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Discussion Starter #21
Maybe the small primary wire terminals are not getting a snug grip on the ignition coil spade terminals?
Pdwestman you are my lord and savior. The ground terminal on the starter coil was loose, pushed it back in place and she fired up Immediately. Great lesson for me to check EVERY connection before coming to a conclusion. Thanks everyone for all the other advice. At least I know I have a clean carb!
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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If no spark, several things to check:
1. Voltage to the coil. An analog meter will be more useful for seeing if the voltage is being switched on and off. If you get voltage, then almost certainly it’s a bad coil. Refer to Clymer manual. Check your connectors too!
2. If no voltage then check the crank sensor. Use the Clymer manual for procedure. If that’s working then it’s probably the igniter module. Check connectors!

Edit: I see you found the problem as I was typing my reply. Good job.

FYI: I bought a used igniter module off eBay for $45, just to have a spare in case it dies on me somewhere in the hinterlands. I need to pick up a spare coil too.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If no spark, several things to check:
1. Voltage to the coil. An analog meter will be more useful for seeing if the voltage is being switched on and off. If you get voltage, then almost certainly it’s a bad coil. Refer to Clymer manual. Check your connectors too!
2. If no voltage then check the crank sensor. Use the Clymer manual for procedure. If that’s working then it’s probably the igniter module. Check connectors!
I think I’ll be saying “check the connectors” to myself every time I look at the bike now. Sure enough one was loose on a coil terminal. Put it back, started up like a beauty
 

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Is this the hose you're referring to?
Yeap, thats the one. Just pull it up thru the gap between seat mount & sub-frame mount on the RH side of the main frame spine and stuff it Down the same gap on the LH side of the main frame.

Them overly small holes in the top of your dirty side air filter box won't improve your air flow much.
I'll recommend four, 1inch or 1&1/8inch holes across the top from LH to RH of that area.
 

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'12 Candy Lime KLR
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Yeap, thats the one. Just pull it up thru the gap between seat mount & sub-frame mount on the RH side of the main frame spine and stuff it Down the same gap on the LH side of the main frame.

Them overly small holes in the top of your dirty side air filter box won't improve your air flow much.
I'll recommend four, 1inch or 1&1/8inch holes across the top from LH to RH of that area.
For some reason the PO drilled twelve 3/8" holes instead of three 1" holes...

Maybe he didn't have a 1" bit... shrug...

I haven't done the math to confirm the area opened by the holes but will if you say I should.
29144
 

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I haven't done the math to confirm the area opened by the holes but will if you say I should.
Your bike, your way. But I'll recommend to not drill much further Forward, with out confirming the location of the air filter & the cleanside divider.
I've got a bike in my shop right now that they holesawed half a hole into the cleanside divider & sort of re-glued.
 

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'12 Candy Lime KLR
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I'm going to leave the swiss cheese look for now.

I may need to replace the air box soon anyway. See my other thread about my airbox:

 

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I'll ask if you cleaned the 4 low speed transition holes just under the bottom lip of the throttle plate and the pilot mixture hole for the external mixture screw? All 5 of those holes get their fuel from that tiny pilot jet. With the pilot jet removed, one should use a tiny wire like a twisty tie to poke down thru those holes & back flush out thru the pilot jet tower. Then insert the aerosol carb cleaner straw into the pilot jet tower & confirm fluid flow.
The 1st of the 4 holes is normally exposed in front of the throttle plate at normal idle speed setting. Open the throttle plate to see the others.




If in-doubt of seeing spark, hang onto the spark plug with your bare hand & crank the starter motor. (I'm not joking! Quick & Easy & Accurate.)
Or unscrew the spark plug cap from the coil wire & hold the exposed tip of wire about 3/8 inch from a valve cover bolt & crank the starter motor.
It can still bite you!
 

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It can still bite you!
That is kind of the whole point.
If that 'bite' was weak enough to suggest that you might ought to try hanging onto it again, the spark IS probably weak Enough to need to Determine/Test which component to replace.
Stator coil in the LH side cover of a Gen 1? Ignition coil on either Gen 1 or Gen 2? Or TCBI module on Gen 2?

The other components in the systems do not control the Strength of the spark.
 

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For some reason the PO drilled twelve 3/8" holes instead of three 1" holes...
Maybe he didn't have a 1" bit... shrug...
Surprisingly, perhaps, you would need to drill (22) 3/8" holes to equal the area of (3) 1" holes.

Jason
 

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'12 Candy Lime KLR
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Surprisingly, perhaps, you would need to drill (22) 3/8" holes to equal the area of (3) 1" holes.

Jason
Thank you @norton8850 for doing my math homework for me!

Maybe I should make the holes different sizes so my airbox looks more like Swiss cheese than it already does.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Surprisingly, perhaps, you would need to drill (22) 3/8" holes to equal the area of (3) 1" holes.

Jason
And those 22 holes would not allow the same flow as the three 1” holes.
 

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That is kind of the whole point.
If that 'bite' was weak enough to suggest that you might ought to try hanging onto it again, the spark IS probably weak Enough to need to Determine/Test which component to replace.
Stator coil in the LH side cover of a Gen 1? Ignition coil on either Gen 1 or Gen 2? Or TCBI module on Gen 2?

The other components in the systems do not control the Strength of the spark.
I've been bitten hard enough that I don't want to be bitten again. I find it better to use an insulated pair of tongs when grounding a live circuit. Just saying.
 

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What do you think about using a jigsaw to cut between the holes?
Kind of a waste of effort, imo. I prefer Four 1&1/8inch holes straight across from LH to RH side.
Some people use a HOT knife to actually cut the entire "L" out of the top of the Dirty air box.

But, PLEASE do NOT drill or hot knife or holesaw as far forward as this guy did!!
 
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