Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My KLR has a starting Glitch that I was getting some help on the other forum ,before it went down.
The bike sometimes just barley clicks when you push start button.
I bypassed the safety switches by putting a scotchlock connector on the striped wires. I did both the kickstand switch and then yesterday did the clutch switch. I left all the wires plugged in.
I have checked the battery,added water . It seems fine.
I checked all my connections and could find nothing loose or corroded.
I think the Glitch is in the solenoid area under the left rear gas tank. I think that it could be from the 2 prong plug close to the solenoid.I was having the glitch ,wiggled that connector and it started.
I rode the bike and everything seemed fine, but the neutral light stayed on all the time.
Could the clutch bypass cause the problem with the neutral light?
Someone said something about a wire behind the front sprocket. What is this? If it controls the neutral light ,it may be the cause of my problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
bigdon55 said:
My KLR has a starting Glitch that I was getting some help on the other forum ,before it went down.
The bike sometimes just barley clicks when you push start button.
I bypassed the safety switches by putting a scotchlock connector on the striped wires. I did both the kickstand switch and then yesterday did the clutch switch. I left all the wires plugged in.
I have checked the battery,added water . It seems fine.
I checked all my connections and could find nothing loose or corroded.
I think the Glitch is in the solenoid area under the left rear gas tank. I think that it could be from the 2 prong plug close to the solenoid.I was having the glitch ,wiggled that connector and it started.
I rode the bike and everything seemed fine, but the neutral light stayed on all the time.
Could the clutch bypass cause the problem with the neutral light?
Someone said something about a wire behind the front sprocket. What is this? If it controls the neutral light ,it may be the cause of my problem.
I would first check the battery connections to make sure they are tight. I have had them come loose a few times, due to vibe's, and would get a click or nothing when I pushed the start button.

Also, the fact that you neutral light is not working is an indicator that you might not have done the safetwy switch bypass procedure correctly. Recheck and make sure the ciruit diodes are grounded.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,429 Posts
The click has to be a bad connection, or your silonoid is going out.
The nutral light has to do with the by-pass.


Safety Switch By-pass Switch



Parts list:

1) DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) bat handle toggle switch

2) Rubber switch handle rubber boot

3) Approximately 10 feet 18 gauge wire

4) 4 crimp connectors, eye type to fit screws on switch

5) 1 crimp connector, eye type to fit 6 mm bolt

6) Rubber tool handle dip or silicone RTV





Procedure:



1) Crimp and solder connectors to three 8-inch wires and one long wire to reach CDI module behind radiator overflow tank.
Crimp the 6 mm eye connector to one 8-inch wire.

2) Attach the long wire and 8 inch wire with 6 mm eye to one side of the DPST switch (one switched set of terminals)
and the other two 8 inch wires to the other side.

3) Dip the switch with wires attached into the rubber compound or alternatively coat with RTV, the body of the switch
and wires where attached to switch. The complete switch body should be coated but do not coat more than the first few
threads of the switch mounting tube.

4) Set switch aside to dry.

5) Remove plastic cover over kickstand switch.

6) Remove side covers, seat, front radiator and rad tank covers.

7) Disconnect fuel hose and vacuum hose to fuel tap.

8) Remove fuel tank and check to make sure that the fuel tank mounting rubbers (hockey pucks) are still in place.
Remove the plastic shield in front of radiator overflow tank.

9) Locate the CDI box and follow the wire harness to the middle plug in the wire plug mounting plate and unplug the
bottom plug that is the bike end of the wiring harness.

10) Use a pick or terminal disconnect tool to push the lock finger back to allow the red-black wire to be withdrawn from
the plug body.

11) Push the starting relay upward to unhook from the mounting blade and pull the relay and wires out in front of the
side stand switch. Unplug the wire plug from the starting relay (4 wire plug below starter solenoid) and use a pick or
terminal disconnect tool to push the retainer finger back and remove the black and yellow/red wires on the same side
out of the plug body.

12) Solder the two 8-inch wires on the same side of the switch to the black and yellow/red wires from the starter relay
plug. I soldered them carefully to the top crimp of the wire connector so that the connector will fit back into the
plastic plug body. This will allow the starting relay to operate normally unless the switch is closed. When the switch
is closed the relay will operate regardless of the clutch or side stand switches.

13) Solder the long wire to the top crimp of the CDI connector in the same manner as above and return the connector
to the plug body.

14) Remove the 6 mm bolt (10 mm head) from the bracket near the starter relay?s mounting position, place the 6 mm eye
connector onto the bolt and reinstall the bolt.

15) Last step is to mark and bore a hole in the bottom front of the plastic side stand switch cover which was removed
in step #5, locating the hole so that the switch will clear the bottom of the starter relay and to the (bike?s) right
of the side stand switch. There is ample room.

16) Test the switch by placing the bike in gear, side stand down, choke on, ignition switch on, etc. Then, tip the KLR
toward you so that the rear wheel is off the ground and hit the starter. If it fires up, note the switch orientation.
If not, flip the switch and it will go now.

17) Reinstall the covers, tank, seat and such using Loctite and or RTV as desired.



This set-up will allow a near idiot (me) to use the safeties as designed but to bypass them at a moment?s notice if
one fails. The location of the switch and means of connecting will allow it all to be removed with nearly no residual
damage if desired. The location will also allow the switch to be operated while holding the front and rear brakes as
if stalled on a hill because the switch will be easily reached with the left hand.



There are likely more elegant solutions to the safety switch issue but this may be useful to someone.





Norm

I forget which board Norm was on when I copied this, but Norm gets the credit. I like the safety switches being there, but also like being able to over-ride them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
I think I might have posted to this over on .net, but here's my take:

Battery connections, distilled H20 level, condition
Starter button, wiring condition
Connections at starter / solenoid, wiring condition

If you already checked most of this, might I suggest replacing the starter button. You can buy a cheap 2 lead normally open circuit dirt bike kill switch and handlebar mount for $10 and wire that to act as the starter button. I was having the same problem as you (minus the neutral light) and replacing the switch solved it for me.

A friend had the same problem and he made it a warranty issue; the dealer found chafed wiring to the starter button. If you replace the switch at the connectors behind the instrument panel, that would eliminate the wiring issue like what he had anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,123 Posts
I have had multiple problems with starting. However, I found the most overlooked issue is making sure that the starter switch is grounded to the bar correctly. I found that scuffing the paint off the area where the contact is located made one starting issue go away. Be carefull though, that screw they have in the starter collar will strip easy. I'd try this if all the other suggestions fail. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Buildit said:
I found the most overlooked issue is making sure that the starter switch is grounded to the bar correctly. I found that scuffing the paint off the area where the contact is located made one starting issue go away.
I don't believe the switch is "Grounded" to the handlebar.... You may want to double check that. In fact, I'm sure it isn't....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Have you tried simply jump starting the bike? Your problem may be nothing more than a bad battery or something draining it. The fact that you can 'wiggle' something and get it to work, however, sounds more like you have a loose or corroded connection in the starter circuit.

Neutral light: With the bike in gear, ignition on, pull the green wire loose from its' connection just in front of the drive sprocket (you will need to remove the sprocket cover first, of course). If the neutral light goes out, you have a defective neutral switch. If the light stays on, you will need to look for a ground on the green wire and start opening the circuit until you find the problem. If it wasn't doing this before your 'mods', I would concentrate efforts in that area first. :wink:

You will need an ohmmeter, have the ignition OFF, one probe on chassis ground, the other on the green wire you removed from the neutral switch terminal.
Post back if you need more help on how to trace a ground or if you do not have access to a schematic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
My n light problem was my clutch bypass. I put a scotch lock connector on the two striped wires and left it all plugged in . The N light did not work right.I unplugged the connector under the speedo and all is good with the N light now.
I have not had any more problems with the starting, but I have not had time to ride much.
Thanks, for all th suggestions!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I think that I finally got it fixed! It was the solenoid. My dealer had one in stock.
WoooHooo!!! :lol:
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top