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Discussion Starter #1
This my third KLR. in over 160,000 miles on KLRs I have never had a charging problem, so I have no experience trouble shooting such a problem. I bought this KLR #3 a few months ago with about 10,400 miles on it. The battery in it was an AGM type.

Yesterday the starter relay just clattered when I tried to start it. I jumped it with my Lithium jump battery and ran some errands with no more problems. This morning the starter relay just clattered again. I install the new AGM battery I had bought for an upcoming long trip and ran some more errands with no problems.

This evening I connected my voltmeter to the battery terminals and started the engine and let it idle with only the LED 24 watt 2 amp low beam head light on. All readings below are with the engine running continuously at 1,200 rpm idle.

Before starting the battery was at 12.6 volts.
It quickly went up to 14.4 volts and then fluctuated between 14.4 and 14.2 volts.

When I switched on the stock (not LED) high beam in addition to the LED low beam the voltage quickly dropped to 12.5, 12.4, 12.3, 12.2 ...

I didn't wait to see how low it would go, but I think it would have gone down faster and lower with a stock incandescent bulb in the low beam side.
Switching back to low beam only the voltage rose to 13.3 in 60 seconds and to 14.4 in 2 minutes.

I think there is a problem in the stator or the regulator/rectifier. I have spares for both in a parts bike sitting four feet away with the gas tank off and the stator cover off.

I need to fix this before leaving on a long trip in a couple of days. Any comments or suggestions.
 

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That is most peculiar behavior.

Have you tested the regulator/rectifier per the section 16-32 in the Kawasaki Service Manual?

It may be just as easy to replace the suspect regulator/rectifier with the one from your other bike.

My experience with stators has been that they either work or they don't, so it's probably not the stator. Having said that all I know about electricity is: resistance = volts / amps.

Let us know what you find.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The donated R/R from my 2011 is bolted in and wired. The tank is on but not bolted inyet. I am adding a new fuel line while while the tank is off. Stopped for some coffee. Will report soon.
 

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Start at the source.
Test each of the 3 yellow (or Black) alternator wires to ground, need to be infinite on high ohms scale.
Test continuity to each other, need 0.1 - 0.8 ohms.
Test the AC Voltage output of the 3 yellows (or blacks), need 40+vac @ 4000rpm between each pairing. Your bike could have one weak pairing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am satisfied. At 1,250 RPM idle on Low beam I get 14.4 volts. Switching to Hi beam still at idle it drops to 13.0 volts. Not charging much, but still not discharging. At 2,000 RPM on Hi beam it gives 14.4 volts.
 

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I am satisfied. At 1,250 RPM idle on Low beam I get 14.4 volts. Switching to Hi beam still at idle it drops to 13.0 volts. Not charging much, but still not discharging. At 2,000 RPM on Hi beam it gives 14.4 volts.
Excellent!

So what did you do to fix it?

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I swapped in the regulator/rectifier from one of my parts bikes.

I only tested the original r/r at 1,200 rpm idle and am not sure now if the original R/R would have produced 14 volts at 2,000 rpm. I am satisfied with the swapped r/r and have too many things to finish in the next few days for my trip. I'll test the original at higher rpm later.
 

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I've been told this is normal, but I find it strange that at idle my KLR charges right at 14.4 volts, regardless of whether light is on low or high beam. Anything off idle on up it drops to 14.1- 14.2V.
 

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I've been told this is normal, but I find it strange that at idle my KLR charges right at 14.4 volts, regardless of whether light is on low or high beam. Anything off idle on up it drops to 14.1- 14.2V.
Quite simply as I understand it, as the alternator Amperage Output goes Up with rpm the Voltage comes down.
Then the load of amperage draw, alternator output, regulator set point and battery state of charge all stabilize.
Perfectly Normal.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I found that the dash mounted volt meter I installed is a little flakey. Some times it reads more than half a volt above or below what my test meter reads across the battery. That volt meter is connected by heavy gauge wires directly to the battery and should be reading battery voltage.

It does some times read 14.4 volts when I idle down at a stop sign.
 

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I found that the dash mounted volt meter I installed is a little flakey. Some times it reads more than half a volt above or below what my test meter reads across the battery. That volt meter is connected by heavy gauge wires directly to the battery and should be reading battery voltage.

It does some times read 14.4 volts when I idle down at a stop sign.
Sometimes too much information, especially if it's not super accurate, can result in a conundrum. This is what I use to monitor the health of my charging system. This gizmo uses simple color codes to identify charging system health; for instance green = good.
 

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Sometimes too much information, especially if it's not super accurate, can result in a conundrum. This is what I use to monitor the health of my charging system. This gizmo uses simple color codes to identify charging system health; for instance green = good.
Do you happen to have a link, or a place to purchase that unit?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Do you happen to have a link, or a place to purchase that unit?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
It's a Kuryakyn unit.

I can't remember exactly where I bought it; perhaps J & P Cycles are even eBay. If you type "Kuryakyn Voltage Meter" in a search bar, you'll get many sources for its purchase.

Jason
 
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