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Discussion Starter #1
I dropped my 06 off at the local Kawi dealer to get the doohickey replaced. They called with the bad news. The rotor is frozen and will not come off. They have never seen this before. They called Kawasaki corporate who had no ideas other than using the correct puller, trying heat etc. which had already been done. Bottom line, the bill is going from $200.00 to over $800.00 as the rotor has to be cut off and a new one installed.

Neither the dealer or the factory had ever heard of this. Anyone here had this happen?
 

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I've dealt with a few of these long distance. A couple of things affect this. If the first puller used is not a good one it can damage the threads. As soon as this happens, it's a problem. There's only about 4 threads in the rotor for the puller to grab. There is another way to pull the rotor. Make a plate with holes that match the holes in the bottom of the rotor, the 6 botls that hold the starter drive clutch to the back of the rotor. Put longer threads in this plate, and use the 6 8mm bolts to attach this plate to the rotor.

I can save you some money since your bike is a 2006. I have a few spare rotors from donor engines, so give me a call. I buy engines and part them out to help people - parts are usually free. (to others than the original poster, please don't call unless it's a disaster like this one, ok? :) )

six one nine 261 1281

all the best,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mike,
Thanks for the response and the offer of the used rotor. I am going to print your suggestion and fax to the dealer where the bike is located. I don't know if they started cutting yet or not. Hopefully with your suggestion for making a plate, the original part can be spared from destruction.

Kirk
 

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I was going to say, another guy here had the same problem and had to cut his rotor off using cutting saw and chisels. Once off the replacement rotor went on without issue. Sorry you had this problem.
 

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Damn.... I was thinking of having my local K Dealer take care of my doo, but now im bitting my nails. Sucks man, hope you get it taken care of!
 

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What can cause one rotor to stick like that but others not? I did my Doo yesterday, Followed Mike's instructions (eastcoast website) watched the whole process on youtube about a hundred times and mine went without a hitch. I was sweating bullets the WHOLE time because of storys like this one. It makes me nervious to hold a tech day and help anybody because I don't want somebody blaming me for their bike because of this kind of stuff. Mike you've done a ton. What's the most common hang up?
 

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I always use a breaker bar with the puller. The harder it's stuck, the slower I go. Quality of the pullers varies greatly. That's one reason I started making them years ago. I also use grease on the end of the puller and the threads.

A couple of other things to pay attention to: watch for the small thrust washers on the starter gears. Keep the idler shaft (the shaft the lever/doo fits onto) pressed into the engine cases as you remove the inner generator cover. That's the inner cover that gets removed to get to the old spring. Keepng the shaft pressed in prevents the thrust washer behind the dler sprocket from dropping. You don't want to unknowingly drop the washer. If you drop, it's pretty easy to put back into place. Just don't drop it and not know it.

Be sure to put the gasket where it should be. I know what sounds simple, but..... Sometimes people tackle stuff like this with zero or little wrenching experience.

all the best,
Mike
 

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Damn.... I was thinking of having my local K Dealer take care of my doo, but now im bitting my nails. Sucks man, hope you get it taken care of!
I wouldn't let an isolated event scare you. If you live in fear you won't leave your bed. Why aren't you doing the job yourself?
 

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Tapers are funny things. Sometimes they need to be shocked to break them loose. If it doesn't come loose right away, smack the end of the puller screw while it's still tightened. Use a brass or lead hammer. I use EP grease to lube the screw also.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here's a plug for an great dealership. Diablo Kawasaki in Walnut Creek, CA.
When they called me to explain the stuck rotor, having to cut it off and the extra parts and labor, I approved the nearly $900.00 estimate. They called yesterday left a message and said "ready to go, pick 'er up, bill is $260.00. I called to see what happened, the tech gave it another try, coincidently while I was previously on the phone approving the expensive rotor demolition job.

That's an honest shop!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oh yeah, the doohickey came out in one piece with the springs on one piece. The bike only had 3100 miles on it. Now I never have to wonder if its going to break.
 

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Yeah I hear that mine had 1700 miles on it and my spring was broke.Searched for 1 hr. with a magnet before I was convinced there were no more pieces. Then I bought a magtecic oil plug also.
 

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2006 stuck Rotor also

I have a 2006 KLR with that stuck rotor problem also. We worked on it for 3 hours trying to get it off using all the methods previously talked about but it will not budge. We stripped the first removal tool and have since ordered a second one hoping it will work. The do- hickey is not broke at this point but it has no spring tension on it and we think maybe a previous owner went in there and removed it or it possibly broke and is laying in the case. As new Rotor costs over 3 hundred dollars I hate to have to cut the damn thing off but am at a loss on any other option. Anyone have any other possible suggestions?
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When talking to the dealer they did mention using heat, not sure if that is what finally got it to budge. Also someone here offered me a low price on a used rotor, but I didn't need it afterall. Maybe you can run a thread asking to buy a used one, I bet you'll find one.
 

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Good for you and them.

Good responses from the forum.

All the dealership needed was a properly made and properly lubed puller (Eagle's come with both), long enough and strong enough breaker bar, and a fat boy like me.

We ran into this at a tech day earlier this year. Three people tried it before me then I used the "it ain't mine attitude" as it broke loose.
 

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Tapers sometimes need to be shocked to break them loose.

1) Lube the puller threads with a good EP grease

2) Tighten the puller down, but not enough to damage anything.

3) Whack the end of the puller screw with a brass or copper hammer.

Generally, it will pop right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tapers sometimes need to be shocked to break them loose.

1) Lube the puller threads with a good EP grease

2) Tighten the puller down, but not enough to damage anything.

3) Whack the end of the puller screw with a brass or copper hammer.

Generally, it will pop right off.
Agree, but in some cases that will not work on these bikes and rotors actually have to be cut off. Before mine broke loose they tried everything including smacking it around. They even hit it with a torch.
 

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Thanks for all the replys. we have tried all the recomended stuff but it still wouldn't budge. I ordered a new puller bolt as we stripped the first one and will try it again. Cutting it off might be my only option if that will not work. I will post the results of our next attempt. Paul
 
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