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Premium Member
2014.5 KLR650
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2014.5 KLR650, 10,000 miles, daily rider been running great, started normally and ran fine for 4 blocks then cut out cold, no sputter, just quit.
No response to the starter button, no lights, no horn.
Pushed it home. Tried bump start on a little downhill ... nope.
Battery checks fine, fuses check fine, gas in the tank. But still no go.
Acts just like the main fuse is blown but it looks fine, it’s a modern blade type fuse.
Any thoughts on where to look ??
 

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2002 KLR650
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61 Posts
Battery checks fine, how about when it’s under a load?
 

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Premium Member
2014.5 KLR650
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Don’t have any way to check it under load, I do have a new battery on the shelf though ... I’ll try that when it stops raining (no garage/shop).
But I’ve never had a battery just die like that after starting fine a few minutes earlier ?
 

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2002 KLR650
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61 Posts
I’ve had a battery weld plates and show a healthy voltage until the car was turned on, then it was fluctuating like crazy or showing nothing.

Also, sometimes it’s as simple as a ground or poor connection. Sounds like I’m sure you’ve already checked those basics but I’ve overlooked it more than once. Battery clamp on car even seemed snug, but something was loose enough to cause problems and not start or turn on. Cleaned terminals even though they seemed fine and put it back together. Still running that battery two years later.

Rain here too, I’m itching to do some maintenance as well.
 

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Premium Member
2014.5 KLR650
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes, the battery post connections were all tight. It’s an AGM battery, only a year old.
I’ll give cables a good once over before I put in the new battery.
Maybe a new main fuse too, even though the old one looks fine ...
Update tomorrow, thanks.
 

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Premium Member
2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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908 Posts
Two comments:
1. Fuses do get old and develop cracks in the small internal link, due to the thermal cycling of that little piece of metal. A gentleman in the Mercedes Benz world used to say that you should replace fuses every 10 years as preventive maintenance. It’s helped me solve vexing electrical gremlins.
2. Get your voltmeter out and start checking for voltage at various nodes.
 

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Administrator
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3,720 Posts
I had that happen to me and it was the battery. Sudden battery failure. Stopped the bike to check a geocache and it wouldn’t restart.
 

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269 Posts
Maybe a new main fuse too, even though the old one looks fine ...
Update tomorrow, thanks.
you said checked then looks fine for the fuse, did you use a multimeter or your eyes?

same with the battery, how did you check it? resting voltage after a full charge? is there an auto parts store nearby that will test it?

seeing as everything is out and went out all at once, I'd start with / at the battery with a voltmeter and work my way forward.
 

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When this happened to me. It was after I installed my paniers, and there is a black wire with a white stripe under the seat. Putting stuff together and seat back on, I didn't tuck the said wire all the way to the side, and over a short time, the seat wore it and broke it. Lost total power to everything, like the bike had no battery. After finding it, and it was obviouce, spliced it together and all was well.
 

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Premium Member
2014.5 KLR650
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys ... I’ll continue to work at it, getting valuable help from Maverick behind the scene ... will update on findings
 

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Premium Member
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3,558 Posts
I can't remember if the Gen2 has the spare fuse or not; you are sure you aren't checking the spare rather than the main? After that, battery, connections, wiring rub though.


Dave
 

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Premium Member
2014.5 KLR650
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
That was my first try ... Tom straightened me out though ...
🙄
 

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2011 KLR
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209 Posts
Check for 12v at the regulator, white wire. Then with key on check for 12v on the brown wire. Starting point.
 

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Premium Member
2014.5 KLR650
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, working away at it. Out of fuses at the moment ...
 

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2014.5 KLR650
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So, I should unplug the regulator, then positive lead into the white wire and negative to a ground ?
Did I mention that electrics was not my strong suit ??
 

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2011 KLR
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209 Posts
It's alright. Yes, do that. Put the black lead on a bare metal surface of the frame, which will also test your battery ground lead as a side effect.
 

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2014.5 KLR650
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133 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
White wire to ground shows -0.00
 

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2011 KLR
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209 Posts
You have narrowed down your problem to the white bus (wire) and/or the ground wire from your battery. Everything electrical on the bike comes from the white bus. It should always have 12v on it. Check your battery terminals, your ground wire from the battery, fuze, and trace the white wire to make sure there are no chaffs, breaks, burns.
 
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