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186 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been chasing the problem for a week and I think finally found the apparent cause,
at least I hope so.
I have checked the air cleaner, cleaned and in the process destroyed it. The seams all parted, glues dissolved etc., that was a chore now fixed but did not cure the surging.
I next checked the vacuum lines, no obvious leaking fuel but I ordered a replacement backing plate anyway for security against future failure.
I decided I needed to clean/adjust the chain late today and in the process found a dead spot, I hope its the chain. when spinning the wheel it spins true then binds&squeaks in one spot.
I could spin the wheel for a ways and it would bind stop, & squeak in one spot. A couple revolutions and bind, free up the bind again.
I kept turning the wheel for&aft trying to isolate the bad spot. I finally did but can't tell if the
chain is squeaking or the wheel bearings, bad hearing I spent to much time under jet engines. One thing I did find however was when the chain or bearing squeaked, bound up, the chain was tight as a drum on both the upper and lower run.
I had planned on switching out the chain and sprockets when I changed my rear tire and it looks like now is the time. I hope it will just be a 1 day job but right now the chain is so tight in the dead spot I do not want to ride fearing I could cause other damage.
I'm a noob when it comes to wrenching, I did not think it could be the chain due to the frequency of the surge, ie to long an interval between surges. My thought was a fuel/air/vacuum issue, I hope this is it and the surging is cured with a chain swap. I have had a "X" ring chain and sprockets sitting on my shelf and tire in the corner. I think it will be a long day
next Sat. I hope it is only 1 day.
I was hoping for a tech day but now can't wait for one.

Lifetime Member
2,482 Posts
A bad chain with a tight spot can definitely give you a surging type symptom as the bike momentarily loads up until it gets past the tight spot. I think you found your problem ;)

Premium Member
1,586 Posts
My surge at 4,000 rpms constant hwy speeds was directly the T-mod.
When I flex the tube a different direction the surge leaves for a few weeks.

Ride on,

186 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)

It certainly seems that the chain was the problem.
Once I made the swap, chain and sprockets the surging quit.
Now on to switching out my brake lines for S.S. that I have had sitting on my shelf.
I had been planning to do all this crap just prior to trying D2D but due to losing my
job that all went out the window. Working again and need to get this stuff done anyway.
Enough of my current events.
The surging- new chain and sprockets fixed it.
Old sprockets looked in really good condition for 23K, no bent, sharp or otherwise odd looking teeth on either one. I felt like keeping them for spares but in the end I tossed them, I'll just by new and keep them on the shelf. I installed a Primary Drive set from Rocky Mountain ATV with a gold X-ring chain, so far they are working well.
Now I am swapping brake lines, stock for S.S. Galfer.
FYI I'm not sure if I am real happy with the Galfer pads I installed at 21k, at 24K they look about 50% gone. Considering I got 21k out of my OEM I expected more. I hope the S.S. lines work out better.
I just finished the fronts and doing a pressure check right now.
The old fluid was a coffee brown color, new looks nice and clean/clear.
Not done the rear yet, in the AM.
A couple things on the line swap.
The S.S. are much smaller in dia. so they do not fit the existing routing clamps well.
Truth they don't fit at all, I am forced to use zip ties or tape to fatten them up.
I do not like the way the new line fits under the steering head/triple tree, no way will it engage the existing clamp. IMO this is a specific hose for the KLR so Galfer should
supply the required bushings to fit or specify a work around.
Another item that was very handy to have is a 60 ml syringe to aid in bleeding the brake
system. I used one with 3ft. of 3/16 clear pvc tubing ( 4ft would be better) and this made
flushing/bleeding the system an easy task. A few bubbles when I started then none.
I flushed about an oz. of fluid out none was coffee colored all nice and clear, kept the
reservoir topped up, closed the bleeder done. No way for air to enter the system, no air
in the 3ft. of tubing to suck up into the system. IMO a lot less expensive than a brake bleeder kit. If I have made a obvious error please let me know but all seems to work well, the pressure check will tell I hope.
When topping up I tried to limit overfilling the res.
I only filled it to the top of the site glass, that was still to much fluid and it spilled out over the rim when
reinstalled the cap. Per inst. about paint damage I washed everything down. My question; should I open the res. and remove a bit to
allow for heat expansion or just leave it be?
I am going to cut and paste this under a brake title to make it easier to show in a search.
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