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Hey all. Going to be pulling the whole rear end apart possibly this weekend to install the new rear shock spring. Going to use this time to also do some maintenance to the swingarm. Was wondering if anyone has been down this road already? Any ideas. I've read about maybe drilling and tapping for a grease fitting. Anything I should look into replacing before I dig in?
 

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Old school thinking is to pump grease in the fitting every time you use the machine. The new bikes have long lasting grease and sealed bearings so you cant just keep pumping grease in……..
 

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I'm planning on doing this between the end of this season and the beginning of the next so will be watching to see what people have to say here: glad this thread got started.

Personally, I'm old school. I don't know if I'd ever go to the trouble of putting in grease zerks (you know you're old when you call them "zerks") but I certainly wouldn't have a problem using them all the time if they were already there.

If the sealed, "no maintenance" bearings are so high-tech, why does there seem to be a problem with them in this area? I think "semi-sealed" would be a better term.
 

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There are no factory zerk fittings intalled on the swing arm. In one of the other forums, there is a pictorial on how to do this. Once a year I pull the swing arm, remove the bearings, re grease and assemble. It is important to remove the swing arm pivot bolt which is the long bolt that goes through the from of the swing arm. If this is not done on a regular basis, the bolt can seize in the swing arm making it a tough job to remove. I use Belray waterproof grease which has served me well. Not sure on this forum, but on others there is a blow by blow summary of how all this is done.
 

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Hey all. Going to be pulling the whole rear end apart possibly this weekend to install the new rear shock spring. Going to use this time to also do some maintenance to the swingarm. Was wondering if anyone has been down this road already? Any ideas. I've read about maybe drilling and tapping for a grease fitting. Anything I should look into replacing before I dig in?

The swing arm bolt is usually hard to get out the first time. Soak it with some PB Blaster the day before and plan to use some sort of long drift type punch to knock it out. Anti-seize or grease the bolt before re-assembly.

Loosen the back motor mount under the swing arm when you go to put everything back together, helps lining up the bolts.
 

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There are no factory zerk fittings intalled on the swing arm. In one of the other forums, there is a pictorial on how to do this. Once a year I pull the swing arm, remove the bearings, re grease and assemble. It is important to remove the swing arm pivot bolt which is the long bolt that goes through the from of the swing arm. If this is not done on a regular basis, the bolt can seize in the swing arm making it a tough job to remove. I use Belray waterproof grease which has served me well. Not sure on this forum, but on others there is a blow by blow summary of how all this is done.

Here's a good write-up: Mark's KLR650 Website - Swingarm Maintenance
 

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I just did mine last week and learned some things -Two words of caution on installing the zerks. (yah, I've called 'em zerks all my life, too, and that's a long, long time)

1. Since it's a metric motorcycle I bought 6mm zerks. It turned out that the zerks are a "small" 6mm, cut with a tight die. I found - too late - that my 6mm tap is a fat 6mm, so the result is a sloppy fit that doesn't hold well in the aluminum. 2 of mine stripped out with minimal tightening - barely more than finger tight. Check yours on scrap first.

On mine, I'm going to see if I can crank ¼-20 zerks into the existing holes and get a jam fit, or even start a ¼-20 tap in there a turn or 2 to give the threads a start. I was very careful to make sure I could reach them all with a grease gun with the bike fully assembled, as Watt Man suggests. I marked them with a felt tip before starting And drew diagrams of them.

1a - check the 45º and 90º zerks before installing them to make sure the 2 parts are tightly connected. I didn't and one of them came apart when I put the grease gun to it. Not a biggie, but awkward and messy.

2. I followed Watt Man's instructions and they are well presented, but he didn't count on characters like me using his instructions. The vent holes he recommends are a great idea and I'm "very" glad I drilled them....but....I neglected to take as much care with placement, just made sure they were opposite the zerks.

Wellll....I can't see some of them with it assembled and played hell telling when a couple of them were full. (and he Did caution about just that. My fault) Not a big thing but a little messy. On those I could see, it was a great confidence builder, watching the grease suddenly squirt out of those little holes. It gives a level of satisfaction, "knowing" that that section is full of grease.

I'm convinced that the zerk method is superior to hand packing (once they're installed) - and I've done a lot of both......

1. There is NO question when that bearing is fully greased.
2. "I" think that taking it apart to grease it is inviting grit to jump itself in there while apart - and the taking it apart will loosen grit in just the right places for it to do its dirty work.

I pressed the single bearings out with the double socket method and it worked fine. Make sure to measure how deep each end of the bearing is set before you start. Some are NOT centered. IIRC, the swing arm bearings are an example.

On the double bearings, I was spooky about the depth (I don't have long enuf sockets or a big enuf vise) and getting them back in safely and accurately, so pulled the shafts out, spread grease thickly in the middle to catch drilling and tapping chips and very, very thoroughly cleaned each one when done.

............Lar.
 
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