Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I came onto this website some time after putting some miles on my 2012 KLR 650. After reading many posts I noticed that people here change the oil during the break-in period at short-miles-intervals.

When I picked up my bike from the dealer I was told to bring it back in for the first oil change after 600 miles:t1202:. I have since put on 1,500 miles and I am now going to change my own oil. So my questions are as follows:

1. What is the benefit of changing the oil on the first 100 miles (as I have read in some of these posts)? I personally think that 100 miles is just too soon to give the bike a chance to "break-in". I could be wrong....

2. Is it a good time (or too late) to change to a synthetic oil.

3. Is it worth it to go synthetic? Cost vs. advantage.

4. Will I need a "Synthetic Oil Filter" (metal/SS) or is a paper filter just as good-aside from reusability?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,540 Posts
Do you wrestle over lubrication types and oil-change intervals similarly over you AUTOMOBILE or TRUCK, gaucho10?

Do what you gotta do; bring peace-of-mind to the space between your ears, but . . . in my view, the Kawasaki Owner's Manual recommendations are both adequate for service life, and adequate to maintain factory warranty. YMMV!



Further, I find no caveat against "friction modifiers," or "energy-conserving" lubricants in the Kawasaki literature, nor do I know of any example of any wet clutch damaged by use of same.

In my view, if you follow the recommendations of your Owner's Manual, you will enjoy the reliability, durability (service lif), and performance to the major extent of the valiant KLR's capability.

With 25 + years of production, I know of no maintenance issue traceable to use of sufficient factory-recommended lubricants.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,928 Posts
I came onto this website some time after putting some miles on my 2012 KLR 650. After reading many posts I noticed that people here change the oil during the break-in period at short-miles-intervals.

When I picked up my bike from the dealer I was told to bring it back in for the first oil change after 600 miles:t1202:. I have since put on 1,500 miles and I am now going to change my own oil. So my questions are as follows:

1. What is the benefit of changing the oil on the first 100 miles (as I have read in some of these posts)? I personally think that 100 miles is just too soon to give the bike a chance to "break-in". I could be wrong....

2. Is it a good time (or too late) to change to a synthetic oil.

3. Is it worth it to go synthetic? Cost vs. advantage.

4. Will I need a "Synthetic Oil Filter" (metal/SS) or is a paper filter just as good-aside from reusability?

1. There are bits of stuff in a new engine usually, i.e. metal particles, sealants, etc. that should get flushed out instead of circulating around for hundreds of miles. That's the reason to do an early change.

2-3. Normally dino oil is perfered to synthetic because the piston rings will seat better during break-in. At 1500 miles you are past that point. IMHO no advantage running synthetic in a KLR. The most important consideration is frequency of oil change not what oil is used. A 2000-2500 mile interval is prudent. Rotella T 15-40 is probably the most popular KLR oil, it's non-synthetic.

4. A metal filter is not cost effective when paper filters are $3 ea IMHO. Change the filter every other oil change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I agree with you 100% LoneRider. I just wanted to make sure that there was no special "magic" or something that I didn't know about a KLR650 that would extend the life of the engine by following these rules.

Spec- <4. A metal filter is not cost effective when paper filters are $3 ea IMHO. Change the filter every other oil change.> I wish I could get a paper filter for $3 ea. I just paid ~$7.29 for mine at the dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,928 Posts
I agree with you 100% LoneRider. I just wanted to make sure that there was no special "magic" or something that I didn't know about a KLR650 that would extend the life of the engine by following these rules.

Spec- <4. A metal filter is not cost effective when paper filters are $3 ea IMHO. Change the filter every other oil change.> I wish I could get a paper filter for $3 ea. I just paid ~$7.29 for mine at the dealer.

$3 filter here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,540 Posts
I agree with you 100% LoneRider. I just wanted to make sure that there was no special "magic" or something that I didn't know about a KLR650 that would extend the life of the engine by following these rules.
Cool, gaucho10!

Now, please let me qualify my previous remarks: MY OPINION ONLY.

There exist respected motorcycle forum posters, who sincerely and earnestly believe KLR's will turn into pumpkins at the stroke of midnight, unless their arcane rituals concerning break-in, oil choice, accesorization, etc., are followed explicitly and to the letter!

I respect their opinions; they may be right. Yet, the 25 + year production history of KLR's, begun even BEFORE Al Gore invented the Internet, has proven sustainable, even in countries and climes where the rituals of the self-annointed cognoscenti remain unknown.

Bottom line: Your bike, your maintenance scheme. Do what YOU think best, and--ride on!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
1. There are bits of stuff in a new engine usually, i.e. metal particles, sealants, etc. that should get flushed out instead of circulating around for hundreds of miles. That's the reason to do an early change.

2-3. Normally dino oil is perfered to synthetic because the piston rings will seat better during break-in. At 1500 miles you are past that point. IMHO no advantage running synthetic in a KLR. The most important consideration is frequency of oil change not what oil is used. A 2000-2500 mile interval is prudent. Rotella T 15-40 is probably the most popular KLR oil, it's non-synthetic.

4. A metal filter is not cost effective when paper filters are $3 ea IMHO. Change the filter every other oil change.
What he said....I run Rosesmella and change at 1500 miles and its a little early but oil is cheap..... The only advice I can give you is dont forget that the KLR650 engine and the engine in a Ferrari have one thing in common... They both run on gas. The KLR 650 engine makes noise, shakes and runs forever with little maintenance..Cheap oil, change it often and enjoy the ride my friend...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
I run the synthetic Rotella. I change it every 3,000 miles (this is about once a month as I ride quite a bit). I also add enough zinc to get the ppm up to 3-4,000.

ETA: I used the kawi oil on the first change at 300 miles, and regular Rotella at 1000. Synthetic at 3000<
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
I run the synthetic Rotella. I change it every 3,000 miles (this is about once a month as I ride quite a bit). I also add enough zinc to get the ppm up to 3-4,000.

ETA: I used the kawi oil on the first change at 300 miles, and regular Rotella at 1000. Synthetic at 3000<
Zinc?:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Google "zinc in oil" or "ZDDP."

To sum it up...:

While the new oils are much better than oils of the past, one thing they continue to reduce is zinc based "anti wear" additives. Rotella had the highest until recently (past few years) when even it was reduced. The reason they are taking it out is it is not the best thing for the catalytic converters. Also, if your engine is a roller it is not really a problem. If you run an older vehicle or hot rod it would be worth checking into. Comp cams requires an additional shot of it for break-in.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top