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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This discussion has been gone over quite a bit. On my '22, I would've loved it, but don't really need it.

YET, regarding the 2022 iteration, I haven't been able to find out at what RPM max torque arrives or when peak HP is, or even if there is a rev limiter and at what RPM it activates.

Riddle me this, Batman: What good is a tach if Kawasaki does not release these specifications?

Just for the heck of it, does anyone know at what RPM peak torque or HP arrives?

I may be interested in a tach one day if I knew the answers to these questions.

Anybody???

Thanks much!
 

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Google is your friend.


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"Ten-four!"

(Line uttered by Academy Award winner (as Willie Stark, in,"All The King's Men") Broderick Crawford most often on, "Highway Patrol," TV program.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Google is your friend.


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Thanks, KLR, although these dyno numbers are at the rear wheel which and though more accurate, are not the same as most other machine numbers posted by manufacturers. More "real world" but sort of like comparing apples and oranges. I was wondering about power relative to the DR and XR650s. Also, I heard of an 8,000 RPM Redline, which may or may not be correct. I don't see anything from Kawi stipulating that... Thank you again!
 

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Thanks, KLR, although these dyno numbers are at the rear wheel which and though more accurate, are not the same as most other machine numbers posted by manufacturers. More "real world" but sort of like comparing apples and oranges. I was wondering about power relative to the DR and XR650s. Also, I heard of an 8,000 RPM Redline, which may or may not be correct. I don't see anything from Kawi stipulating that... Thank you again!
The DR, XRL and KLR-A/B/C/E (and whatever the new one is) are all within a hp or two at the most. If you spend a couple hundred hours on the internet you will find credible sources to say any of the three are faster than the other two! LOL.......when you are talking 34 rwhp or so, it matters little but nonetheless, there you go.

As far as the redline goes; there is no reason to exceed 6,000....redline on my Gen1's is 7500 but nothing much is happening up there!

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The DR, XRL and KLR-A/B/C/E (and whatever the new one is) are all within a hp or two at the most. If you spend a couple hundred hours on the internet you will find credible sources to say any of the three are faster than the other two! LOL.......when you are talking 34 rwhp or so, it matters little but nonetheless, there you go.

As far as the redline goes; there is no reason to exceed 6,000....redline on my Gen1's is 7500 but nothing much is happening up there!

Dave
Yes, it's not much use to rev out due to the drop off in HP and TQ. Yet, if it redlines at 8K but I rev it only occasionally to 6K, I know that at most, the engine is being taxed to only 75% capacity and overall it is leading a very stress-free life!
 

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Yet, if it redlines at 8K
The KLR650 engine is and has always been 7500 rpm since 1987. Nothing has changed inside the 2022 engine to suggest that the Redline has been increased. The crankshaft stroke is STILL 83mm or 3.26771inches.

At that 7500 RPM the piston is traveling just over 4084 FEET PER Minute or 6.53542 inches per each full rotation of the crankshaft. Looking at it another way, the bike would travel about 1.875 miles and the piston would travel about 4/5ths of a mile inside the cylinder, with the stock 15/43 sprocket gearing!
Luckily the engines power output can't pull that rpm, therefore that speed in top gear, on flat land.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The KLR650 engine is and has always been 7500 rpm since 1987. Nothing has changed inside the 2022 engine to suggest that the Redline has been increased. The crankshaft stroke is STILL 83mm or 3.26771inches.

At that 7500 RPM the piston is traveling just over 4084 FEET PER Minute or 6.53542 inches per each full rotation of the crankshaft. Looking at it another way, the bike would travel about 1.875 miles and the piston would travel about 4/5ths of a mile inside the cylinder, with the stock 15/43 sprocket gearing!
Luckily the engines power output can't pull that rpm, therefore that speed in top gear, on flat land.
Thank you PD. That would mean that this 22 engine will still have an easy life. Even without a tach, I know I will not be wringing 7,500 RPM out of this thing. I anticipate that 90% of it's life will be spent between 2,000 and 5,000 RPM with only brief excursions beyond that.
 

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I added a tach and the Thermo-bob on my ‘22. At 70mph in 5th gear, the tach shows around 4700 rpm. I have the kit for the doohickey, but haven’t done it yet. I bought mine a couple of months back and have just under 400 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I added a tach and the Thermo-bob on my ‘22. At 70mph in 5th gear, the tach shows around 4700 rpm. I have the kit for the doohickey, but haven’t done it yet. I bought mine a couple of months back and have just under 400 miles on it.
Hi Crusader, and thank you! A few questions:

1. Do you think the tach is fairly accurate? Which one do you have?
2. 4,700 RPM at 70 MPH means that the bike is absolutely loafing at 60, which is good news. It also means that even at 80 MPH, the engine is nowhere near red line.
3. Do you have a Gen 3 bike with stock gearing?
4. Thanks again!
 

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^^^
He's right, you know.

Really, NOTHING has changed. The engine is the same as it has been since 1987. The gearing is the same as it has been since, well, '96 or so and the final ratio is the same as since '87. The gearing charts on Gear Commander are still valid. The gearing information in the Excel spreadsheet that is stickied is still valid.

If you put a 16 on it it will still turn 93.75% as fast as it does with a 15.

If you want a tach, put one on. They are cheap. You don't need one, though. Just do what @Rat says. Do it six times. After the sixth one, say "Ah, shit." That's what we all do.

I swear, it's like youse guys have never drag raced in a Nash Rambler...
 
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Hi Crusader, and thank you! A few questions:

1. Do you think the tach is fairly accurate? Which one do you have?
2. 4,700 RPM at 70 MPH means that the bike is absolutely loafing at 60, which is good news. It also means that even at 80 MPH, the engine is nowhere near red line.
3. Do you have a Gen 3 bike with stock gearing?
4. Thanks again!
I feel it’s close enough to accurate. It idles at 1500 rpm, which is in line with older versions. I bought it with the Thermo-Bob from Watt-Man. I have the 2022 KLR650 Adventure in grey camo and gears are stock. I added the Thermo-Bob and tachometer, plus I pulled the airbox snorkel. Pulling the snorkel gives it a slight, not much, growl and seems to accelerate smoother. I bought a 17 tooth sprocket with the doohickey upgrade parts from Eagle Mike, but now I’m not sure I want to swap sprockets. It does well enough at high speeds for my liking and I plan to spend more time off-road.
 

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For accuracy, I'd trust the tachometer more than the speedometer (the latter known for, "optimism")!

Would suggest a GPS for speed/rpm correlation.

YMMV!
 

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With the speedometer sensor on the Gen 3 bikes reading transmission shaft speed to the rear wheel, rather than actual wheel speed from either wheel, any alterations to the final drive gearing is going to Create Severe In-accuracy of the new electronic speedometer!
And I doubt if there will be any cheap/quick way to re-calibrate them, for a while, if ever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Accelerate til it stops pulling ... shift ... accelerate til it stops pulling ...
I've done that for years on various dirt bikes and a Harley or two. I certainly get it. Still Rat, even when the bike's power begins to roll off perhaps at 6K RPM, it would be nice to know if I could stretch it just a bit longer approaching a curve rather than either slowing down or performing an upshift and immediate downshift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
^^^
He's right, you know.

Really, NOTHING has changed. The engine is the same as it has been since 1987. The gearing is the same as it has been since, well, '96 or so and the final ratio is the same as since '87. The gearing charts on Gear Commander are still valid. The gearing information in the Excel spreadsheet that is stickied is still valid.

If you put a 16 on it it will still turn 93.75% as fast as it does with a 15.


If you want a tach, put one on. They are cheap. You don't need one, though. Just do what @Rat says. Do it six times. After the sixth one, say "Ah, shit." That's what we all do.

I swear, it's like youse guys have never drag raced in a Nash Rambler...
Hi Tom. A few thoughts:

1. Knew nothing about Gearing Commander. Thanks.
2. Is the Excel spreadsheet Gear Comm or elsewhere?
3. If one shifted 6 times, he'd be in 7th gear. I am QUITE OFTEN there, trust me...
 

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The spreadsheet is here and is kinda-sorta KLR specific. Of course, it will work for any bike, but well, KLR is king boofoo.

I start the bike in neutral and go straight to hooligan mode, shifting into first, second, third, fourth, fifth, and reach for sixth. Thus the six shifts. I tell you this just to prove how adept I am at rationalizing my mistakes. I'm the original Tom Slick, Artful Dodger, Kid Twist, the Pathological Liar.
 
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