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Hello out there, anyone can anyone help me? I discovered there is no mounting pin for the oil filter. I put the filter in as I found it without this pin. I ran the engine to move the oil around before topping it up to max level. It sounded o.k but had been getting a little rattly over 9 months driving so I tried to do the adjustment on the tension balancer. Starting the engine after this f... up, it was a whole lot more rattly. I turned the ignition off pronto and am now at a loss of what to do (apart from ordering a mounting pin for the filter of course) :) do I have to take off the whole side of the engine and could it be the spring has fallen off inside. Ahhhh! I love my KLR and you guys and girls too. Muchisimas gracias from La Gomera, Las Canarias, España xx
 

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Rikkitikki,
Do not start your engine again!
Only after you remove the L.H. engine cover and confirm and replace what You/I suspect is a Broken Doo-Hickey.

I suspect the Doo was broken and when you loosened the lock bolt the broken pieces fell out of place.

I've been dreading the day that I hear/feel that same 'increase' in vibration from a customers bike!
Glad that you were aware enough to catch it.

I assume the oil filter bypass pin is already on your to 'be ordered' list. And I'll recommend the Genuine EagleMike Doo-Hickey and Torsion Spring.
 

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Lordy, lordy, lordy,
When things are this 'quiet' on the KLR internet sites, I am certain that the Whole Country is in TROUBLE!!!!!!!!!
I am basicly broke. How about you???
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm about as broke as the doo doo in the crankhouse. Spare parts take for ever to arrive here and there isn't a good bike mechanic on the whole island.
 

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Well the first place to start is confirming what is wrong.That means draining the oil and removing the side cover to have a look. I am thinking perhaps just the spring is broken allowing the chain to go slack when you loosened the bolt. I don't think it is possible for the spring to "fall off" unless it is broken. You may be able to reuse the gasket if you are careful when taking the side cover off.
The biggest issue isn't the cost of the parts. It is the tools you need to remove the flywheel.

One guy fished his broken spring out, tensioned the doohickey with his finger and tightened the lock bolt. Once the doohickey is locked down the spring doesn't do anything anyway.This got him going till parts and tools were available.
Regards....justjeff
 

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Well the first place to start is confirming what is wrong.That means draining the oil and removing the side cover to have a look. I am thinking perhaps just the spring is broken allowing the chain to go slack when you loosened the bolt. I don't think it is possible for the spring to "fall off" unless it is broken. You may be able to reuse the gasket if you are careful when taking the side cover off.
The biggest issue isn't the cost.......................
You can use justjeff's idea without draining the oil. Just lay the bike over on its side. With the left side cover off you can see part of the doohickey. Loosen the doohickey adjusting bolt and push the visible end of the doohickey to the right (counter clockwise). If it springs back when you release it, the spring is not broken. If the spring is broken, you will need to get the broken parts out.

Then push the doohickey to the left. If it moves much past the point the spring pulls it to, the spring may not have any pull range left, but you can push it to the left and tighten the adjuster bolt. This will snug the balancer chain up and should be good for 5 or 10 thousand miles as long as you don't loosen the adjuster bolt and let the chain go slack again.
 

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Rikkitikki,
Do not start your engine again!
Only after you remove the L.H. engine cover and confirm and replace what You/I suspect is a Broken Doo-Hickey.

I suspect the Doo was broken and when you loosened the lock bolt the broken pieces fell out of place.

.
Excellent advise as always. :)

.....in fact, I go so far as to advise Gen1 owners NOT to attempt a doohickey adjustment without ensuring that the spring is intact and has tension and the doohickey lever is in one pce.
Attempting to adjust a broken doohickey is WAY worse than not adjusting it at all.


Dave
 

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You can use justjeff's idea without draining the oil. Just lay the bike over on its side. With the left side cover off you can see part of the doohickey. Loosen the doohickey adjusting bolt and push the visible end of the doohickey to the right (counter clockwise). If it springs back when you release it, the spring is not broken. If the spring is broken, you will need to get the broken parts out.

Then push the doohickey to the left. If it moves much past the point the spring pulls it to, the spring may not have any pull range left, but you can push it to the left and tighten the adjuster bolt. This will snug the balancer chain up and should be good for 5 or 10 thousand miles as long as you don't loosen the adjuster bolt and let the chain go slack again.
Yep; the spring is just to make adjusting easier, it isn't strictly required....


Dave
 

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Here's hoping we hear, "The rest of the story," as a famous radio commentator once often said!

The suspense remains palpable; hope it has a happy ending!

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you all very much. I now have less fear and more understanding. I'll take a peep when I have time off and get her running good again soooooon. Stay safe and have fun.
 

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Take pictures.
 

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Hello out there. finally I got round to fixing the doohickey problem. Firstly there wasn´t any spring and the doohickey was a bit worse for wear. I replaced both with Kawasaki parts cause it´s difficult to find Mike´s stuff in Europe. also the bike is old and I am not going to make this adjustment again (try clocking up 10,000 miles on Tenerife). the worse thing I discovered is that the drain plug is cracked. I think a garage on Tenerife is responsible cause it never leaked a drop before. it looks like it´s cross threaded too as the plug goes in at a slight angle. best thing maybe to but another klr and keep my old baby as spares...anyway thank you all again. keep on keepin´on.
 

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Rikkitikki,
With a new balancer tensioner Spring with a fair stretch on it, (like it is suppose to have) the adjustment is Simple. Turn engine to TDC, loosen lock bolt Two Turns, re-tighten lock bolt with Torque Wrench, 65-70 Inch pounds. Done.
Should be done every 3000 miles or 5000 km.
Simple, FREE & Easy.

Your engine will appreciate your efforts. Glad to hear that you got it done, even if you had to use OEM parts.

As to the oil drain plug,
They normally are installed at an angle. Broken casting around the drain plug is usually or often caused by people Losing the thick Aluminum Gasket, and then Over-Tightening said drain plug to try to stop a drip.

The Bottom thread and a Half on some drain plugs are not fully CUT!
Forcing the Un-Cut thread into the aluminum threads of the engine case 'Wedges' the unsupported casting around the drain plug Open.

May I suggest that you try some "Wicking Grade/Penetrating Grade" thread locker on the cracks after a good cleaning, along with a new Aluminum gasket.
 

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..........................................................May I suggest that you try some "Wicking Grade/Penetrating Grade" thread locker on the cracks after a good cleaning, along with a new Aluminum gasket.
Mr. Westman, could you give Rikkitikki a brand name to Google for some"Wicking Grade/Penetrating Grade" thread locker.

I think you should be careful not to install the plug until the locket has set up and the threads have been thoroughly cleaned so you don't lock the plug in the hole.

Also, I think this technique would require a very through cleaning of the crank case and the crack so that no oil remains in the crack. Something like letting the bike sit a few hours with the plug out to let the oil drain down from the upper engine; flushing with mineral spirits a couple of times; letting it set over night with some mineral spirits and a clean plug in it to flush out the crack.
 

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This will be available at most automotive parts stores and will be available in much smaller quantity containers.
LOCTITE 290 - Threadlocker medium/high strength - Loctite
Regards....justjeff
LOCTITE 290 ..................Your benefits................
■Proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils, e.g. engine oils, corrosion prevention oils and cutting fluids........

Wow, it sticks to oily surfaces. That is a miracle product.
 

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That is the stuff I call sleeve retainer, same and works very well ....IF there is a crack going away from the plug I would clean the engine case area extremely well with bike on it's side so any oil drains away from crack, flush the crack with carb cleaner spray, and dremel the area to clean and rough it up and apply JB Weld to it. not the paste but the two part epoxy.....do thin layers roughing it up between layers and do maybe 3 layers to get it sealed well....then if you see a new leak after a new drain plug with crush washer I personally would use a smeer of RTV silicon on the threads of the plug and then cover the drain plug with silicon to seal it......it'll work fine for the shortish distances you travel etc. I do the RTV thing with mine and it doesn't leak, just to make damned sure it never backs out. 36 years ago a Honda dealership didn't tighten my drain plug and it left the engine while riding at speed down the highway......nearly destroyed my engine....I was lucky enough to see it happen and turned her off immediately and coasted to a stop......bastards! So now i'm paranoid about my bike. I relay this story to anyone who see my plug covered in silicon. It never leaks, or backs offf and I sleep well at night. It also picks off easily when time to do an oil change.....just to stop the comments coming...lol
Yes it's a backyard mechanic type solution but it works and could solve your issue imho....especially seeing as what you have described of your area.
Good luck....:character00201:
 

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the worse thing I discovered is that the drain plug is cracked. I think a garage on Tenerife is responsible cause it never leaked a drop before. it looks like it´s cross threaded too as the plug goes in at a slight angle. best thing maybe to but another klr and keep my old baby as spares...anyway thank you all again. keep on keepin´on.
Merely a suggestion: An OVERSIZE OIL DRAIN PLUG might cure your leaking problem.

Oversize oil drain plugs have tapered, self-tapping threads. Sometimes, even stripped oil drain holes can be repaired and made serviceable by insertion of an oversize plug.

Inexpensive (less than $ 10), may be worth a try. As mentioned above, be sure a washer is involved.
 

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.................. the worse thing I discovered is that the drain plug is cracked. I think a garage on Tenerife is responsible cause it never leaked a drop before. it looks like it´s cross threaded too as the plug goes in at a slight angle. ........................
I may have misread your post here. I took it to mean the case is cracked. Did you mean that the plug itself is cracked or the case it screws into is cracked at the hole?
 
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