Dully noted, but Dave, these cotton gauze filters are the #1 type used in SCORE Baja and KOH type racing. Some of the harshest racing conditions on earth. My comparison to drag racing was referencing the 'flow' aspect of the debate.
Dully noted, but Dave, these cotton gauze filters are the #1 type used in SCORE Baja and KOH type racing. Some of the harshest racing conditions on earth. My comparison to drag racing was referencing the 'flow' aspect of the debate.StarfuryTH has well covered my thoughts; I'd add that dirtbikes have no warranty so if you screw up the cleaning/oiling procedure, it's on you whereas a vehicle needs to be idiot proof. ....but the biggest difference between dirt bikes and cars is the environment they are used in. Drag racing is likewise an "apples to oranges" comparison as there is almost no dirt and usage is extremely limited (10 seconds at a time!)..... many times drag cars have no filter at all and depending on the class, some are rebuilt in a very short period of time - top fuel is after every run!
Dave
Dully noted, but Dave, these cotton gauze filters are the #1 type used in SCORE Baja and KOH type racing. Some of the harshest racing conditions on earth. My comparison to drag racing was referencing the 'flow' aspect of the debate.
Here's a video of the machine.
Ask me about overcarburatingThe conventional wisdom at the time was that more flow equals more power. While that's true to an extent, there's obviously more to consider.
I have to agree 100% with this. The K&N's filtering area is along the periphery of the intake boot, and the front has a cover. The foam filters front and sides are fully open for drawing air in. That is mostly likely why the K&N doesn't work all that well on a KLR and/or similar bikes with small air boxes.Ok, so to be clear, I don't question that the K&N's flow may be superior to both paper and oiled foam given equal filter sizes, I think the K&N flow issue is somewhat unique with the KLR because the factory foam filter design draws from the end and the K&N doesn't... that coupled with the airbox's small area for the filter is what makes the K&N flow poorly on a KLR......not the case with most other applications.
Dave
Precisely, they're called 'outerwears' and they do as you say and pre filter the air. They're recommend for harsh(dusty/sandy) conditions as well as wet conditions.i think i remember in the 70's or so that K&N had Pre-wraps for desert racers and certain other extra dirty elements..![]()
Should I post up the formulas used to calculate filter size req.?I have to agree 100% with this. The K&N's filtering area is along the periphery of the intake boot, and the front has a cover. The foam filters front and sides are fully open for drawing air in. That is mostly likely why the K&N doesn't work all that well on a KLR and/or similar bikes with small air boxes.
This....
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Versus this....not enough surface area to draw air from...??
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we didn't have much need for them in the hills of arkansas..Precisely, they're called 'outerwears' and they do as you say and pre filter the air. They're recommend for harsh(dusty/sandy) conditions as well as wet conditions.
It sounds as though you're describing a comprehensive test. For now, I'm just interested in settling the 'surface area' debate.2D surface area isn't really the whole story.
For an air filter, there are a few metrics you'd want:
-Air flow when clean and oiled, both per square unit and for each filter of a given size.
-Air flow when dirty, after running in identical conditions for a set amount of time.
-Filter effectiveness, measured by passing particles of different sizes through the filter and seeing how much of what sizes make it through, tested repeatedly over time to see if it gets better/worse as the filter gets dirty.
-Filter capacity for various particle sizes, measured by passing particles of different sizes through the filter until air flow decreases to a set minimum.
This is all done in a lab, with microscopes, precision scales, and air flow meters.
Like I said. Of the hundreds of atv/bike I get in my shop....I could count the foam filters that ive seen oiled by an owner on one had probably. People just don't do it. Lol . In cars any K&N or paper is better than a non oiled foam filter and I suspect that even fewer cars are properly maintained by their owners than Toys like bikes/atv/and sxs. Ill recommend a K&N over a dry foam filter anyday. Lol.I'd like to hear some opinions as to why you guys think the foam filters never caught on with the automotive industry or the greater off-road racing industry (excluding most dirt scooters).
. I see a LOT of old cars in my shop come in with a 350 or 400 CI engine, stock heads and nearly stock cam..... and an 850 CFM edelbrock. Lol. Can flood and kill them on demand if you open the secondary lol. I had a one small block with a pretty mild cam and little if any head work come in with dual 550s. Lol. Enough carb for a 9k RPM 460 or 454.Ask me about overcarburating![]()
I was waiting for that to be mentioned and you are correct regarding surface area; I'd suggest that the location of the bottleneck to the flow is the problem in the case of the KLR's K&N.....but it really doesn't matter; testing has shown that it doesn't flow as much so the reasons why are kinda moot.Should I post up the formulas used to calculate filter size req.?
I guarantee that if it was pulled open the surface area of that K&N is far greater than the foam.
With the foam, what you see is what you get.
The K&N on the other hand has a tremendous amount of surface area within the pleats.
For science @StarfuryTH should dissect his unwanted K&N and likewise someone measure the surface area of their foam.
We want pictures with measurements.
I'll volunteer to run the experiment if needed upon being supplied with materials.
Now we're talking![]()
Relic of 60s thinking - more is better. Dual carb small blocks were available from the factory, because race cars at the time running WOT 100% of the time they weren't idling were the sales pitch, and the big stacks on a dual carb intake sometimes made for something approaching decent vacuum signal to monster carb venturi.I see a LOT of old cars in my shop come in with a 350 or 400 CI engine, stock heads and nearly stock cam..... and an 850 CFM edelbrock. Lol. Can flood and kill them on demand if you open the secondary lol. I had a one small block with a pretty mild cam and little if any head work come in with dual 550s. Lol. Enough carb for a 9k RPM 460 or 454.
Even with my afr meter people won't usually let me put a smaller carb on. One can only jet and needle down so far. Lol. Adding a big carb spacer can help dumb down the issue too.
For filters, a stock engine only needs so much air. An NA engine will likely NEVER be built enough to need more air than the stock filter or air intake will flow, yet people spend millions on intakes/cold air/filters.
Id also wonder how many maf would be damaged by oiled foam. It's not so much of an issue now but back in the 90s and 00s we seen several K&N filters oil coat the maf and cause issues.
Exactly what I thought. those fingers full of dirt will be like skinny tree branch with a fat cat on it.I was once given an explanation of how an oiled foam filter works. I was told that none of the air channels through the filter are straight. As the air passes through it curves one way then back in a different direction many times before it leaves the filter. As this happens centrifugal force causes dirt and dust particles to be slung toward the outside of the passages which have oil that grabs and holds the dirt. It would make sense then that with enough dirt/dust the passages get clogged. My thoughts on the "wavy fingers" of the K&N would be that as they get dirty the fingers would be unable to wave as much therefore, filtering would be reduced as would flow (should it get really dirty). To be a microscopic dust particle and experience the flow path of each filter type would be an interesting thing!