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The great (informative) K&N filter debate. (here we go again)

2093 Views 89 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  MN Willie
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It is with great pride that I'm able to start this conversation here today.

The purpose of this is to be informative, educational and last but not least controversial;)

There has been many a debate about the legendary K&N air filter with staunch arguments on both sides of the fence.

First, allow me to present some detailed instructions on how to properly maintain said filter (or any cotton gauze element type).

Then, I'll cover a case sample for further review and debate.

Last but not least I'll support everything with a short video from a man who is world renowned within the automotive industry (airflow research). When the OEM manufacturers have a problem they need solved this mans phone rings. His name is David Vizard, his level of experience and expertise is unmatched.

I know of several well respected figures who have done testing of their own in the past and those results have been repeated numerous times; here and elsewhere online. My intent is not to discredit those results in anyway. I'm merely presenting an entirely new set of facts and explanation of conclusion as to why it is the way it is and why those previous results ended up how they did.

Here's some initial food for thought: How much dirt and dust are we going to find behind this respectfully dirty K&N filter?
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Stay tuned for part 2 coming soon!
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StarfuryTH has well covered my thoughts; I'd add that dirtbikes have no warranty so if you screw up the cleaning/oiling procedure, it's on you whereas a vehicle needs to be idiot proof. ....but the biggest difference between dirt bikes and cars is the environment they are used in. Drag racing is likewise an "apples to oranges" comparison as there is almost no dirt and usage is extremely limited (10 seconds at a time!)..... many times drag cars have no filter at all and depending on the class, some are rebuilt in a very short period of time - top fuel is after every run!

Dave
Dully noted, but Dave, these cotton gauze filters are the #1 type used in SCORE Baja and KOH type racing. Some of the harshest racing conditions on earth. My comparison to drag racing was referencing the 'flow' aspect of the debate.
Here's a video of the machine.
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Dully noted, but Dave, these cotton gauze filters are the #1 type used in SCORE Baja and KOH type racing. Some of the harshest racing conditions on earth. My comparison to drag racing was referencing the 'flow' aspect of the debate.

Ok, so to be clear, I don't question that the K&N's flow may be superior to both paper and oiled foam given equal filter sizes, I think the K&N flow issue is somewhat unique with the KLR because the factory foam filter design draws from the end and the K&N doesn't... that coupled with the airbox's small area for the filter is what makes the K&N flow poorly on a KLR......not the case with most other applications.

Dave
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Here's a video of the machine.

It's almost comical when I think back at how many K&N's we sold at the shop because of this little demonstration machine. As soon as they'd see that ball stay at the top with the K&N it was an easy sell. The conventional wisdom at the time was that more flow equals more power. While that's true to an extent, there's obviously more to consider.
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The conventional wisdom at the time was that more flow equals more power. While that's true to an extent, there's obviously more to consider.
Ask me about overcarburating :p
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i think i remember in the 70's or so that K&N had Pre-wraps for desert racers and certain other extra dirty elements..:rolleyes::rolleyes:
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Here's a video of the machine.
Lovely.

What demonstration? ;)
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Ok, so to be clear, I don't question that the K&N's flow may be superior to both paper and oiled foam given equal filter sizes, I think the K&N flow issue is somewhat unique with the KLR because the factory foam filter design draws from the end and the K&N doesn't... that coupled with the airbox's small area for the filter is what makes the K&N flow poorly on a KLR......not the case with most other applications.

Dave
I have to agree 100% with this. The K&N's filtering area is along the periphery of the intake boot, and the front has a cover. The foam filters front and sides are fully open for drawing air in. That is mostly likely why the K&N doesn't work all that well on a KLR and/or similar bikes with small air boxes.

This....


Versus this....not enough surface area to draw air from...??
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i think i remember in the 70's or so that K&N had Pre-wraps for desert racers and certain other extra dirty elements..:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Precisely, they're called 'outerwears' and they do as you say and pre filter the air. They're recommend for harsh(dusty/sandy) conditions as well as wet conditions.
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I have to agree 100% with this. The K&N's filtering area is along the periphery of the intake boot, and the front has a cover. The foam filters front and sides are fully open for drawing air in. That is mostly likely why the K&N doesn't work all that well on a KLR and/or similar bikes with small air boxes.

This....


Versus this....not enough surface area to draw air from...??
Should I post up the formulas used to calculate filter size req.?

I guarantee that if it was pulled open the surface area of that K&N is far greater than the foam.

With the foam, what you see is what you get.

The K&N on the other hand has a tremendous amount of surface area within the pleats.

For science @StarfuryTH should dissect his unwanted K&N and likewise someone measure the surface area of their foam.

We want pictures with measurements.

I'll volunteer to run the experiment if needed upon being supplied with materials.

Now we're talking ;)
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2D surface area isn't really the whole story.

For an air filter, there are a few metrics you'd want:
-Air flow when clean and oiled, both per square unit and for each filter of a given size.
-Air flow when dirty, after running in identical conditions for a set amount of time.
-Filter effectiveness, measured by passing particles of different sizes through the filter and seeing how much of what sizes make it through, tested repeatedly over time to see if it gets better/worse as the filter gets dirty.
-Filter capacity for various particle sizes, measured by passing particles of different sizes through the filter until air flow decreases to a set minimum.

This is all done in a lab, with microscopes, precision scales, and air flow meters.
Precisely, they're called 'outerwears' and they do as you say and pre filter the air. They're recommend for harsh(dusty/sandy) conditions as well as wet conditions.
we didn't have much need for them in the hills of arkansas..:rolleyes::rolleyes:
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2D surface area isn't really the whole story.

For an air filter, there are a few metrics you'd want:
-Air flow when clean and oiled, both per square unit and for each filter of a given size.
-Air flow when dirty, after running in identical conditions for a set amount of time.
-Filter effectiveness, measured by passing particles of different sizes through the filter and seeing how much of what sizes make it through, tested repeatedly over time to see if it gets better/worse as the filter gets dirty.
-Filter capacity for various particle sizes, measured by passing particles of different sizes through the filter until air flow decreases to a set minimum.

This is all done in a lab, with microscopes, precision scales, and air flow meters.
It sounds as though you're describing a comprehensive test. For now, I'm just interested in settling the 'surface area' debate.
I was once given an explanation of how an oiled foam filter works. I was told that none of the air channels through the filter are straight. As the air passes through it curves one way then back in a different direction many times before it leaves the filter. As this happens centrifugal force causes dirt and dust particles to be slung toward the outside of the passages which have oil that grabs and holds the dirt. It would make sense then that with enough dirt/dust the passages get clogged. My thoughts on the "wavy fingers" of the K&N would be that as they get dirty the fingers would be unable to wave as much therefore, filtering would be reduced as would flow (should it get really dirty). To be a microscopic dust particle and experience the flow path of each filter type would be an interesting thing!
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Here’s my unscientific theory.
If you can see daylight thru an air filter when held under a light, stay away from it.
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I'd like to hear some opinions as to why you guys think the foam filters never caught on with the automotive industry or the greater off-road racing industry (excluding most dirt scooters).
Like I said. Of the hundreds of atv/bike I get in my shop....I could count the foam filters that ive seen oiled by an owner on one had probably. People just don't do it. Lol . In cars any K&N or paper is better than a non oiled foam filter and I suspect that even fewer cars are properly maintained by their owners than Toys like bikes/atv/and sxs. Ill recommend a K&N over a dry foam filter anyday. Lol.

And oiling isn't terribly cheap or fun either. Maintaining our 20 or so vehicle fleet would just suck more in general if we had to clean, dry, and reoil.

Ask me about overcarburating :p
. I see a LOT of old cars in my shop come in with a 350 or 400 CI engine, stock heads and nearly stock cam..... and an 850 CFM edelbrock. Lol. Can flood and kill them on demand if you open the secondary lol. I had a one small block with a pretty mild cam and little if any head work come in with dual 550s. Lol. Enough carb for a 9k RPM 460 or 454.

Even with my afr meter people won't usually let me put a smaller carb on. One can only jet and needle down so far. Lol. Adding a big carb spacer can help dumb down the issue too.

For filters, a stock engine only needs so much air. An NA engine will likely NEVER be built enough to need more air than the stock filter or air intake will flow, yet people spend millions on intakes/cold air/filters.

Turbo are a different beast. A tune (or even a different restrictor pill or some other cheat can gain 100 HP or more and more air may well be needed. Even without touching impellers or the snell itself

Id also wonder how many maf would be damaged by oiled foam. It's not so much of an issue now but back in the 90s and 00s we seen several K&N filters oil coat the maf and cause issues.
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Should I post up the formulas used to calculate filter size req.?

I guarantee that if it was pulled open the surface area of that K&N is far greater than the foam.

With the foam, what you see is what you get.

The K&N on the other hand has a tremendous amount of surface area within the pleats.

For science @StarfuryTH should dissect his unwanted K&N and likewise someone measure the surface area of their foam.

We want pictures with measurements.

I'll volunteer to run the experiment if needed upon being supplied with materials.

Now we're talking ;)
I was waiting for that to be mentioned and you are correct regarding surface area; I'd suggest that the location of the bottleneck to the flow is the problem in the case of the KLR's K&N.....but it really doesn't matter; testing has shown that it doesn't flow as much so the reasons why are kinda moot.


Dave
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I see a LOT of old cars in my shop come in with a 350 or 400 CI engine, stock heads and nearly stock cam..... and an 850 CFM edelbrock. Lol. Can flood and kill them on demand if you open the secondary lol. I had a one small block with a pretty mild cam and little if any head work come in with dual 550s. Lol. Enough carb for a 9k RPM 460 or 454.

Even with my afr meter people won't usually let me put a smaller carb on. One can only jet and needle down so far. Lol. Adding a big carb spacer can help dumb down the issue too.

For filters, a stock engine only needs so much air. An NA engine will likely NEVER be built enough to need more air than the stock filter or air intake will flow, yet people spend millions on intakes/cold air/filters.

Id also wonder how many maf would be damaged by oiled foam. It's not so much of an issue now but back in the 90s and 00s we seen several K&N filters oil coat the maf and cause issues.
Relic of 60s thinking - more is better. Dual carb small blocks were available from the factory, because race cars at the time running WOT 100% of the time they weren't idling were the sales pitch, and the big stacks on a dual carb intake sometimes made for something approaching decent vacuum signal to monster carb venturi.

I run a 600CFM vac secondary carb on my very warm SBF 331, despite some old school hot rodders suggesting I need at least a 750 DP. Spins to 6k just fine, with excellent throttle response despite sub-12" intake vacuum at idle :)

And yes, I'd expect a MAF sensor to be fouled by an over-oiled foam or K&N filter. Or maybe even an adequately oiled filter over time. Those sensors are very sensitive to contamination. MAP sensors not so much.
It's funny bringing up over carbing, I had a friend in highschool with a 289 hi-po that kept trying different carbs on his Fairlane until he talked to a guy that knew what he was doing from Roush Racing. He went back to the stock 4100 and made sure it was setup properly and never looked back. Most of the other carbs he tried were just too big. Understanding that a certain size n/a engine with a certain size cam (lift/duration) will only pull in so much air to mix with fuel. Finding the sweet spot for carb size makes it run great, otherwise, you pull your hair out trying to figure out why your mildly cammed, stock 289 can't make the power you want with and 850 carb! Even it it has a K&N filter. (Had to throw in the filter to stay on topic.)
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I was once given an explanation of how an oiled foam filter works. I was told that none of the air channels through the filter are straight. As the air passes through it curves one way then back in a different direction many times before it leaves the filter. As this happens centrifugal force causes dirt and dust particles to be slung toward the outside of the passages which have oil that grabs and holds the dirt. It would make sense then that with enough dirt/dust the passages get clogged. My thoughts on the "wavy fingers" of the K&N would be that as they get dirty the fingers would be unable to wave as much therefore, filtering would be reduced as would flow (should it get really dirty). To be a microscopic dust particle and experience the flow path of each filter type would be an interesting thing!
Exactly what I thought. those fingers full of dirt will be like skinny tree branch with a fat cat on it.
I remember at the start of Covid there was a team of Japanese or Korean scientists measured how far the sneeze droplets can float in the air before falling to the ground. The same camera used for measuring dust particles flow through the filter could be very interesting.

I just noticed that the top cover can be disassembled. How come nobody came with some kind of inverted cone. This way there will be no turbulence behind the flat cover and fix the air flow issue. 3D printing anyone?

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