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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any advise on up shifting with too thick of winter boots to fit under the shift lever? Would it work to adjust the shift lever one notch upward? I'd appreciate any advise. Thanks
 

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Anyone have any advise on up shifting with too thick of winter boots to fit under the shift lever? Would it work to adjust the shift lever one notch upward? I'd appreciate any advise. Thanks
I wear Redwings and I couldn't adjust it up enough to get past second. Solution: extended shifter. Works great. $20. And it actually improves the overall shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So a longer shift lever? Like an inch longer will solve the thick winter boot problem for shifting? Thanks again.
 

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Many people report that a longer lever helps with clunky boots.

My experience is similar but different.

I moved my foot pegs down and back (1" one direction and 1.5" another but I forget which). Before the move I could shift OK with touring boots. After the move I need the clunkier Vibram-soled boots.

A little extra distance makes a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This makes perfect sense for effective up shifting on the klr. By tilting the foot down, that would enable a thick pair of winter boots to fit more effective under the shift lever. I wonder if the Pivot Pegz will mount to the current mounting bracket, pen and pen spring of an IMS Super Stock after market front foot pegs? That's been on the klr for over the last 10 years. Greatly thanks for this information.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It does make sense that increasing the distance between the foot peg and the shift lever would enable tilting a thick toed winter boot under the shift lever to up shift. Warmth of military winter mickey boots are comfortable in the cold while rated at -30 below is comfortable but shifting the klr has been a problem during the winter because of the thick toes. I'm considering this good bit of advise. Thanks again.
 

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I extended 1 inch, shoe/boot size 12.

Lowered one groove due to carrying my leggy knees way
forward giving a down tilt to the angled back lower legs.
I sit generally centered on the seat and do a fair amount of standing
too to protect the aging spine. (49 years old going on 17)

Turtlebrother,
You have the exact idea in mind. The longer lever distance gives more
foot-height clearance. Adjust up or down from there for comfort.


Welcome to KLR Forum! (The finest riders, best techs, and honest online friends
all found their way here) You, like I many years ago found the best KLR site, period.

CheapMark and the '09 batcycle
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Greatly Thanks

Many thanks for the valuable information. This will give a solid foundation for a decision to solve the big toe problem I have for shifting.
 

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knight design offset pegs use the stock mounts and create more space both vertically and horizontally. They also improve the stock ergos, have good grip and come with proper springs and pins/bolts. The lower positioning also helps with the rear brake pedal adjustment range.

The IMS pegs (yes, I had them too) are far superior to the stockers but they are a bit taller and exacerbate the position issues.

Dave
 

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Anyone have any advise on up shifting with too thick of winter boots to fit under the shift lever? Would it work to adjust the shift lever one notch upward? I'd appreciate any advise. Thanks
What size is your boot? Moving the lever up one spline did the trick for my size 8.5 boot.
 
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