[C model]

I have read a lot about Pdwestman oil flow mods (i am interested only in changing banjo bolts and adding smaller oirfice in oil filter cover) and I would like to ask if anybody is still runing those modes and does it have any ill effects?

 

[PT-13Pilot]

I have been running the banjo bolts and filter cover mods on my 08 for over 10,000 miles, 36,000 to 47,000 total miles. ZERO negative things to say about it. Mines a burner. I checked and adjusted my valves at almost 47k miles (10k since oil mods) and cams still look new. I like the idea of more oil up there.
I’d probably do the 100% oil filter mod, but I’m not pulling my clutch cover just for that. If/when I need clutch replaced or reseal then water pump I will.

 

[C model]

Thank You for the info, I have already drilled banjo bolts and made modification in oil filter cover, just need the time to install it. Mine burns oil if I keep it above 4500 rpm, and i rarely go above that rpm but it would be nice to ride without looking a lot at rpm meter

 

[PT-13Pilot]

I bought mine as a burner, saw the oil mod thread and thought why not? Mines an 08 know to burn and and I bought it that way at 36k. When I started after the mods I started riding more and more on the highway, wasn’t really planned just happened. My consumption was always around a qt/1000 miles, maybe 1200 miles of back roading/off-road. It hasn’t gotten any worse in almost 11k miles. So it’s kind of been an experiment. I kept close eye on it, and rode. Mine came with a 685 kit so when it gets worse or I get tired of it, I’ll go that route. But I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it. His logic seems sound to this mechanic and rider 👍

 

[C model]

Yes the logic sounds good and I will give it a try when I get the time, if I just change the banjo bolts oil would not move away from the crank without the restrictor in the oil filter cover, and I also think this two mods should be made together to make it work, just worried a bit that not enough oil will go to the crankshaft trough that 2.5mm restrictor, maybe I should enlarge it to 3mm? Or would that be too large?

 

[PT-13Pilot]

Have to ask Paul on that one. I did the banjos and oil filter as he described. Mine still runs smooth, no metal in the oil filters or drain magnet, or anything else untoward for me.

my cams at 47k and 10k+ on the oil mods. Not a great pic but I have no worries with these mods installed.

 

[C model]

Thanks again for the good info, will probably install it with the 2.5mm restrictor, nice looking head!

 

[pdwestman]

I also think this two mods should be made together to make it work, just worried a bit that not enough oil will go to the crankshaft trough that 2.5mm restrictor, maybe I should enlarge it to 3mm?

Yes it is best to perform the 4 modifications (3 banjo bolts & 1 crankshaft oil control orifice) all at the same time.

The original oem bottom rod pin bearing, oil control outlet hole is 3mm.
I have tested down to #46 drill / .081 inch / 2.06 mm crankshaft oil control orifice with 'Zero' ill effects, with 10W40 engine oil.
And this is/was my proof. My BSL oil report seems to be 'missing in action' tonight on my screen.
Maybe you can view it? Laboratory Oil Analysis Thread!

I have the most run time/testing on #44 drill / .086inch / 2.18mm orifice.

 

[pdwestman]

Maybe you could/should also read the 'Recommended Reading' threads Below this thread? v v v

 

[C model]

Now i get it why the restrictor hole diameter has to be smaller than 3mm, if it is 3mm it is not so restrictive, anyway I have all the banjo bolts drilled and restrictor made from brass bolt cutted and tapped in the oil cover and drilled to 2.5mm, will this setup work to move a bit more oil to the head? Oh and i use 15w-50 oil, dont drive much in colder days. Thanks for the info @pdwestman

 

[pdwestman]

C model,
It will supply a LOT more oil to the camshafts & transmission shafts. But More Importantly it will Help reduce the Over-Oiling of the cylinder wall & therefore the oil ring / oil return holes in the ring land.
The additional oil flow over the warm/hot cylinder head helps warm the entire oil supply/engine. Works even better with a radiator by-pass system like the Thermo-Bob.

With a "C" model, one could dis-connect the carb de-icing plumbing and re-route the outlet hose from the thermostat housing directly to the coolant pump cover to achieve the additional benefits of quicker warm-up time & more stable engine temps. (Use larger brass nipples & hose.) You will never over-heat the engine oil, because the KLR engine cases are one giant oil cooler.

 

[C model]

Thanks for the ideas, threads with oil flow mods are very good read, superdoo site from Tom was very helpful, also the oil lab tests. Will do the oil flow mods, carb heating bypass crossed my mind while reading thermo bob threads but maybe I will put it in a winter drawer so it is never boring👍🔧 I cant say enough how helpful was this forum for me, even if You have some general knowledge in repairs there are always a few things that are model specific and fortunately this forum is here to help and keep us all rolling untill the upper balancer bearing fails and then some more after😁

 

[Pig685]

Is a 3/32" drill bit close enough for the orifice in the plug?

 

[pdwestman]

3/32" = .094 inch = 2.3876 mm. YES, close enough for the Orifice in the 6:00 oil port of the oil filter cover.

 

[Grant S]

I did the carb heating bypass around 18 months ago. around the same time that I did the banjo bolt hole size increase. I have not done the restrictor to the crank oil flow.
Only had one issue since which was due to accepting bad advice from the guy at the Auto parts center, the joiner the arrow points to failed & has been replaced with stainless steel tube.
No issues from either mod. Last picture shows parts which were removed.

 

[C model]

Nice mod Grant, You are so lucky in Australia, You have all KLR models available, in EU no new ones since 2004. Everything looks solid except that little bottleneck near the nipple on the termostat housing, I wonder is there any brass nipple with larger inside and outside diameter so the hose can be made from one piece from thermostat housing to water pump...either way it is now a proper system with bypass like in a lot of cars etc.

 

[Grant S]

Nice mod Grant, You are so lucky in Australia, You have all KLR models available, in EU no new ones since 2004. Everything looks solid except that little bottleneck near the nipple on the termostat housing, I wonder is there any brass nipple with larger inside and outside diameter so the hose can be made from one piece from thermostat housing to water pump...either way it is now a proper system with bypass like in a lot of cars etc.

Yes we are fortunate that I could still go & buy a brand new old stock 2018 model if I wished.
The bad thing about the Aussie models is Kawasaki"s approach to meeting the LAMS (learner approved motorcycle scheme) requirement. Those 2 holes in the slide make for dangerous overtaking & not being able to drive out of corners properly is no fun. Thankfully we have this forum to provide fixes for issues like these.

The nipple at the thermostat is indeed very small so I took the easy way out & used the existing molded hose there. You can use the existing hose from the water pump & join it to that. They are different sizes but close enough that my 2nd attempt at joining with a bit of stainless steel tube, generously provided by a marshall at the Aussie round of the World superbikes in 2020 has worked well. If you can find a double ended brass nipple that had the right sizes each end that would be ideal.

 

[C model]

Your mod is very good and it can be easy changed back to stock if needed. Carb heating in Australia is probably not needed, where I live the coldest temps are around 0 celsius, so probably will make the same thing, thanks again for the idea, picture is always worth more than words.

 

[Pig685]

As a substitute for an NPT plug and tap, can a fine thread metric set screw with PTFE tape on the threads be used instead?

I would imagine the appropriate amount of PTFE tape would not only seal well, but create enough thread interference to prevent backing out. Trying to avoid purchasing a tap which I'll never use again.

 

[C model]

I have drlled and tapped a hole for m8 screw (drilled with 6.8mm drill bit and tapped with m8 tap. My screw is cutted brass screw with 2.5mm hole in it. I have not yet installed filter cover,(it is spare one) maybe a good idea would be blue loctite for the thread, teflon tape would probably work, but dont know if the temps will be too high there for the tape.