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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
I have been reading up on the kickstart mod and ignition systems quite a bit. This video was very helpful to a beginner like myself.


Can the ignition switch take over the role as kill switch and eliminate the kill switch after the gen1 conversion with the replacement rotor, stator, CDI and ignition coil?

If I was able to locate and install the hard to find kickstart conversion parts wouldn't I be able to remove/disconnect the starter motor, starter relay, starter circuit relay, starter button and battery?

Tom, I understand what you said about the starter circuit relay but it looks like you have the wires eliminated in your diagram. I could be reading something wrong though.
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I assume the KLR250 kickstarter parts wouldn't work as they are readily available.

I bought that kickstarter lever because it was cheap enough and appears to be in working condition. I know in your video you mentioned they were very hard to find. Reading through a few more times I now realize there are other options out there. Hopefully it is usable and will come in handy. I'll keep my eyes peeled for parts.

I am just trying to grasp these concepts for the first time and sometimes I make things much more difficult then they need to be. It's a good way to learn though.

EDIT - The KLR600 cover should fit since it uses the same gasket.
 

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Can the ignition switch take over the role as kill switch and eliminate the kill switch after the gen1 conversion with the replacement rotor, stator, CDI and ignition coil?
Yes, it can. I never use the kill switch. However, the idea of a kill switch is not to turn the engine off as a matter of course, it is to have an easy way to turn the engine off after you've flopped the bike over on yourself and need to quickly kill the engine without fumbling to reach the key. I had considered eliminating it but, in the end, chose the safer route and installed a Gen 1 kill switch.

If I was able to locate and install the hard to find kickstart conversion parts wouldn't I be able to remove/disconnect the starter motor, starter relay, starter circuit relay, starter button and battery?
Yes, you can/could. See this:

Tom, I understand what you said about the starter circuit relay but it looks like you have the wires eliminated in your diagram. I could be reading something wrong though.
Ah! You are right, I did remove it. My bad. Old age ≠ remembering shit.

I assume the KLR250 kickstarter parts wouldn't work as they are readily available.
Nope.

I bought that kickstarter lever because it was cheap enough and appears to be in working condition. I know in your video you mentioned they were very hard to find. Reading through a few more times I now realize there are other options out there. Hopefully it is usable and will come in handy. I'll keep my eyes peeled for parts.

I am just trying to grasp these concepts for the first time and sometimes I make things much more difficult then they need to be. It's a good way to learn though.
In my mind, the best way. Things learned hard are learned good.

EDIT - The KLR600 should fit since it uses the same gasket.
Meh, yeah, but why? That would also mean that you would need to use the old-style clutch release lever. Fetch up a '96-'07 cover. The sight glass is also in the (almostish) right place.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
I’ve been digging into this. I had the idea of using a 84 klr600 left side case to eliminate the electric starter and then rereading more of your superdoo stuff you already went down this path of course. Would that fit/work with the gen 1 rotor and stator? The 84 had different parts but maybe the sizing and attachment points are the same/similar.
 

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I’ve been digging into this. I had the idea of using a 84 klr600 left side case to eliminate the electric starter and then rereading more of your superdoo stuff you already went down this path of course. Would that fit/work with the gen 1 rotor and stator? The 84 had different parts but maybe the sizing and attachment points are the same/similar.
The insurmountable problem is that the crankshaft on the '84 600 was shorter. The longer crankshaft (to accommodate the sprag clutch and ring gear for the starter) makes the '84 alternator cover not fit. You'd need to be able to make an adapter to go between the inner case and the outer case. Think along the lines of an adapter to mount a bell housing on an incompatible engine block.

Impossible? No. Damn hard? Yeah.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Double up some of that thick gasket material with some rtv between it. hahaha. How much space are we talking? I am completely talking out of my @$$ here. OOHHHHH, could you even shed that heavy gear on the back of the rotor and the other two starter gears?
 

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The crank is longer by about half an inch. I' have to check my notes, but I think you could look into printing a 3D cover. As I mentioned, not impossible, but very hard.

Yes, you'd shed the gear and the sprag clutch. If I remember correctly (see recent history) you'd have to use an '84 rotor, and it has no provision for a sprag clutch.
 

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My end-state thought on this was that the easiest way to get there from here was to start with a 600 engine. Life becomes easy. You can't easily fix the stroke issue, but you can get some of the bore back. Not that it really matters.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
If the kick start progresses I see the starter hole plugged and myself trimming the fat. "Hey mom! The bike works but I have this pile of spare parts!"
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The IMS 6.6 is having some fitment issues. I remember reading that the molding process could vary by 7% or something like that and it isn't made for the 2nd gen. The forks hit when turned to the right. I pulled the rubber bumpers from the frame and it fits closer to the pucks but certainly not perfect. I wasn't expecting an easy install from all that I have read. Even gen 1's had problems. Could be a junk tank I got off of ebay at a slight discount with known but not disclosed issues. Could be normal problems with these things.

Bracket is loose on the tank and frame. I believe the grommets are installed correctly.
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This is how much play in left with the forks gently resting on the tank.
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You can see how the tank is not symmetrical.
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I don't know how thick the tank is in that spot. I could grind away the impact zone. I don't know how often I would need to turn that hard to the right. The tank will move a bit to allow full rotation but I plan on attaching the front with some home made brackets, plus that is pretty much shite to have the forks hit the tank. There is also a few inches that I can flex the front inwards on both sides but that doesn't help the for fork issues.

Anything like this happen with you Tom? Anyone else have a 6.6 on a 2nd gen?
 

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@maverick9611's got one on his motard.

I didn't have any interference with the forks, even when I had the Gen 2 radiator in place.

Is it the fork tubes that are hitting, or the triple tree?

Do you have a picture of the whole tank?

How is the interference around the radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I’m posting from my phone for the first time. Hopefully everything come through.

This is with the rubber frame pads off. The fork clearance was about the same worth them in but the puck area didn’t line up as well. The fork tube is hitting on right and the left has a bit of clearance. I did your radiator mods to my gen 2 radiator which is slightly bent.
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Discussion Starter #34
I should have looked this over better before I started posting on here. The tank is definitely lopsided but the main culprit is (well, everything being very sloppy, but mainly) the bracket. The holes have horizontal play but are drilled way way way off center. The other problem is the threaded inserts in the tank are slightly off center the same direction. What a POS. I put the bracket on before without close inspection. I put the rubber tank bumpers back on the frame and I'll either send IMS an email for a new bracket or modify or make my own. At least it is closer to working sitting on the bike completely untethered. I also found answers to lots of my previous questions throughout the forum and Tom's website ('84 cases and starter/spur gear removal). I appreciate the help and have been using the search to the best of my ability.

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Wrestle with it as required but, in the en, the pucks and the backbone rubbers need to be in there to properly support the tank.

Is this the 6.6 with the three holes in the wings? It looks like it, but I'd like to see a shot like this one, or at least a confirmation that yours looks exactly the same:
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Vernmented: You asked about kill switch and ignition switch previously.

On Generation 1s, both the kill switch and the ignition switch engine stop mechanism is . . . grounding CDI power lead.

Just, FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Vernmented: You asked about kill switch and ignition switch previously.

On Generation 1s, both the kill switch and the ignition switch engine stop mechanism is . . . grounding CDI power lead.

Just, FYI.
Thank you. I even considered taking a cutting wheel to the entire ignition switch after a couple beers last night and installing a hidden switch somewhere. Definitely filed that away into the really bad idea folder but might come back to it down the road after I get some time back on the bike.

Tom,
I didn't want to rest it on the petcock. Hopefully these will do. Pretty sure it is the same tank. Here are some shots of how it lines up on the pucks without the incredibly sloppy machined bracket on. It still bumps the forks a little bit. I have a feeling I should try to reach out to IMS and see if they would send a replacement. I'm not sure how their customer service is. The place I bought it from on ebay has bad comments for zero customer service but sell massive amounts of product without problem. I didn't dig into their feedback before I purchased. I was just happy to actually have a gas tank being shipped to me since it was the 4th I bought in two weeks. I unfortunately left positive feedback earlier yesterday but I can try to return it to them or block the paypal payment somehow. On second thought I should just start the ebay return. At first I was thinking that these tanks are just crap and people deal with it but I have a feeling this is really defective.

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Other parts are trickling in today. I have never worked on a clutch before. I suppose I'll have to check it's fingers and plates.
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Discussion Starter #38
You can see on the right side where the forks hit. It is missing some of the scalloping. That is the fork problem. The sloppy puck fitting, misaligned threaded inserts and the blind machinist are all icing on the turd in the punchbowl that is the IMS 6.6. Let's not forget about the garbage instructions and useless mounting hardware that you already address in your review. Not bad for the 4th gas tank I purchased. Am I cursed? What the hell did I do?
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Discussion Starter #40
Good thing I kept the box and packing around since my old cat really likes it. I will hopefully be able to source a natural color tank now and I was at least able to use this to get my engine put back together and tested. Maybe I should just get a safari tank. I really like the 6.6 though.

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